Type 2 score!!!!

[Dan in MI]

From my calculations this is a pure type 2. I think the only thing the pics don't verify are the EJR and EJRH. 1/2 round with steel. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[flatgate]

I see "early trigger", "early rear sight elevation screw" and "late front sight".

I'll assume dimpled ejector rod button and the long slot ejector housing (short slot was for the rimfires). It ought'a be a Type II!

Good for you! These neat old guns are getting harder and harder to find!

flatgate

 

[Dan in MI]

I used the pics in Dugan's book for EJR/H ID. If dimpled means single deep "dimple" then yes.

 

[G2]

Them thar o'l lookin blue ones are the real thing. The Stainless is a NM homeboy ERB... :wink:

 

[flatgate]

I apologize for being slightly "Off Topic" but, AWESOME, G2. I've been thinking about doing that for "a while". I love seeing it!

flatgate

 

[Dan in MI]

Off topic? It's a Ruger ain't it? :lol:

 

[rugerguy]

G2, nice touch and it does work..............there IS a reason for it to be like that. :wink:

(its just that the stainless "eats" up those round carbide cutters...) :shock:


Dan, that looks pretty GOOD to us, we like it............and yessir, they are getting harder and harder to find......

 

[Dan in MI]

Will any OM grip frame be correct or do I need to find a specific one? That is the only rough piece of teh puzzle. The rest is honest wear.

As I type I'm thinking XR-3 vs XR3-red, but don't know the time frame of the change.

 

[rugerguy]

that gun has an 'XR-3' , the original, first type of frame on it, it is not broken or really that bad off, could use a bit of 'tlc' or whatever...some folks just recoat it with something like Brownells Alumahyde , and if it wears ,scratches or nicks up later on, you strip it and recoat it again "as needed" if you are going to use the gun........
we've seen others recoat the grip frame with Krylon, or motorcycle engine paint paint, thats very durable too.......careful, do NOT let it run, better to use quick, thin coats, let it dry in between coats and you can put it in the oven at 325 degrees for around 20 minutes or so, to cure and "set" the finish ( use an old coat hanger and bend it in a 'loop' to make a stand to keep the grip frame off the ovens grates) .......do what works for YOU.......and yes, keep your eye out for another old model that may have a GREAT grip frame on it, and you can swap them out, we see LOTS of folks do that all the time, it is a COMMON Practice...............

 

[contender]

I'm jealous (due to some private knowledge here!)
NICE gun!
The grip frame should be a XR-3 and a swap to an XR3-RED is easy. It should screw right on.

 

[Dan in MI]

It's not clear in the pic, but it looks to me like it was smashed a little from the bottom straight up. Kinda squaring the trigger guard.

Ty, it's just standard internet magic, turn paper into steel, into more paper back into less steel. (by volume) :lol: Or as B.A. Barracus said, "I love it when a plan comes together."

 

[Cherokee]

Good find...

 

[rugerguy]

if the trigger guard bow is NOT 'cracked' you can swage it back out to proper shape with tapered mandrels and go slow, take your time.....if its cracked then heat it and shape it, and any GOOD welder, yes, aluminum can be welded and reshaped, then refinished........its just easier, quicker, simpler to 'swap it out"..................heck send it to me, I'll see what we can do with it, won't be the first one we redid/repaired.......... 8)

 

[americal]

Always liked that extra line up notch in those EARLY micro rear sight adjustment screws 8)