tore down Mk I RST4 from 1953; now what?

[m657]

Had the trigger pivot pin fall out somewhere in the middle of a Steel Challenge match.

Plus the little beastie was looking a bit crusty, so tore it down to a mere 'box o'parts'. Hope to get it back together without having to visit the local 'smith. Again.

Got the replacement pin, now thinking...say....what about a little slicker trigger?
What about a little tighter take-up and release? Also thinking of installing the 'Majestic Arms speed strip' device. <www.majesticarms.com>

Any tips/experience/sage advise on such matters?

 

[contender]

If that gun is as old as that, and is enjoying regular use,,, I'd not bother with trying to slick up the trigger. It's likely already there. But it is a possible option.
As for the Majestic speed strip option,,, I've always felt they were not necessary as I know how to disassemble & reassemble my MK guns easily enough.

 

[rugerguy]

I would worry more as to "why" the trigger pivot pin came out as there is a small clip that retains and keeps it in place, should NOT move or shift on you.......clean it up, keep it lightly lubed and it will perform just fine, maybe put a newer recoil spring on the guide, and you'll be good to go, time and use , smoothes the triggers down on those old guns more than one thinks.....it is a plinking gun, NOT a "match pistol".........as for the 'Majestic System , more of a gimmick, than a use for something that is NOT a problem..... :wink:

 

[m657]

thanks for the tips gentlemen; good points made

and it really is a mystery how/why the clip failed

Just got replacement pivot pin yesterday; will see how far reassembly gets in the next few days.

 

[mohavesam]

Hmmm... shooting the Steel Challenge with a heel-release mag design. GOOD on you!

Yes repair the pistol, get it running again. I agree the retaining clip should be replaced anyway, and the trigger as-stated above, is as smooth as its going to get by now!

As for the Majestic Arms conversion - I'm a believer. Of course there is no need to take down a Ruger pistol anymore. The 1950's "Rube Goldberg" design of levers, cams, extra hinges, and extra parts just to get the bolt out was relevant then, but since modern chemical aerosols, Dunk-kit systems, and ultrasonic cleaners I don't think there is any need for stripping the guns except for the guy with nothing else to do. I still like Dino's products especially in the field.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I would worry more as to "why" the trigger pivot pin came out as there is a small clip that retains and keeps it in place, should NOT move or shift on you.......clean it up, keep it lightly lubed and it will perform just fine, maybe put a newer recoil spring on the guide, and you'll be good to go, time and use , smoothes the triggers down on those old guns more than one thinks.....it is a plinking gun, NOT a "match pistol".........as for the 'Majestic System , more of a gimmick, than a use for something that is NOT a problem..... :wink:

Exactly! It's actually an "E" clip that snaps very securely in the ring groove on the left end of the trigger pivot pin. The only way your trigger pivot pin could "fall" out of place is, if that "E" clip were to break and also fall out. If you're sure your "E" clip has walked off the job, send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll send you one, same color as this one.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Had the trigger pivot pin fall out somewhere in the middle of a Steel Challenge match.

Plus the little beastie was looking a bit crusty, so tore it down to a mere 'box o'parts'. Hope to get it back together without having to visit the local 'smith. Again.

Got the replacement pin, now thinking...say....what about a little slicker trigger?
What about a little tighter take-up and release? Also thinking of installing the 'Majestic Arms speed strip' device. <www.majesticarms.com>

Any tips/experience/sage advise on such matters?

You can reduce take-up and then over-travel by installing a trigger that has screws exactly for that sort of adjustment. Or, you might look into converting your factory trigger by installing the two screws yourself, if you feel you can do that job. Best to have a drill press handy. The picture of this Ruger RST4 has a Clark Custom "steel" trigger installed in it. These triggers arrive with an over-travel screw, but then I added a pre-travel stop screw, to eliminate some of the take-up.



The Majestic Arms speed strip kit is a solution to a non-existent issue. Once learned, dis and re assembly is as routine as a normal cleaning regimen. Unfortunately, even with the "speed strip" kit, at some point you will need to get into the internals in your grip frame and will still need to pull your mainspring housing assembly. Those internal parts need to periodically be inspected for wear and it's the ONLY way you can get all the gunk that has collected in nooks and crannies that other means does not get into. Take the time to learn that process, because a "Clean pistol is a very reliable pistol".

 

[m657]

re: "since modern chemical aerosols, Dunk-kit systems, and ultrasonic cleaners I don't think there is any need for stripping the guns except for the guy with nothing else to do. "

I believed that up until this particular pistol history.

About 3 or so years ago I sent it to the factory for some much needed attention and they whipped it into fine shape, including replace the frame (due to a horrid issue caused by prior owner) and basic 'return to spec' and full blue treatment. I found a nice OEM walnut grip set & have been quite pleased with the results.

It's seen considerable plinking. Recently I installed a little enhanced mag release in the heel butt as the old one was not very cooperative.

I've given careful clean/degunking via the host of non-dismount, using U/S cleaner & the blast & blow stuff as well as creams/ointments/deep tissue healing formulas (ok, just testing to see if you're awake).

I've put maybe 5000 rounds thru it since return from factory. With discovery of trigger pin loss, I have dismounted the entire mechanism and was completely astonished. Gunk/grime/various gummy fouling residues in every corner of the receiver/ejection port/frame exposed to the blow back.

Surprised me as the feed ramp also had a little hard shellac plaque evident.

I don't want it to get to this point again. The mysteries of the OEM take down is simply more complex than I want to mess with, although of course it does get easier with more practice. My intent to is make cleaning more enjoyable.

Yesterday the trigger pivot pin from a major supplier arrived. Turned out to be the wrong one despite talking with their 'gun technician'. More to the point, despite what their records say, the pin is NOT the same as the Mk II/Mk III pin. The typical expanded parts image shows the pin as "A34" and the drawing does show the rt frame side as rebated. The pin I received was same diameter the full length of the pin and would not submit to being stuffed into the hole. Further discussion produced squat....

However, enter the lady at the Ruger factory located one of the last few such pins in the bottom of someone's tool box & is sending it right out.

Part of the lure of the Majestic kit, is inclusion of new hammer bushing, if I understood the claim, which may well give decreased slack as I hope.

More thrills to be posted as they become available.

Additional comments solicited.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

re: "since modern chemical aerosols, Dunk-kit systems, and ultrasonic cleaners I don't think there is any need for stripping the guns except for the guy with nothing else to do. "

I believed that up until this particular pistol history.

About 3 or so years ago I sent it to the factory for some much needed attention and they whipped it into fine shape, including replace the frame (due to a horrid issue caused by prior owner) and basic 'return to spec' and full blue treatment. I found a nice OEM walnut grip set & have been quite pleased with the results.

It's seen considerable plinking. Recently I installed a little enhanced mag release in the heel butt as the old one was not very cooperative.

I've given careful clean/degunking via the host of non-dismount, using U/S cleaner & the blast & blow stuff as well as creams/ointments/deep tissue healing formulas (ok, just testing to see if you're awake).

I've put maybe 5000 rounds thru it since return from factory. With discovery of trigger pin loss, I have dismounted the entire mechanism and was completely astonished. Gunk/grime/various gummy fouling residues in every corner of the receiver/ejection port/frame exposed to the blow back.

Surprised me as the feed ramp also had a little hard shellac plaque evident.

I don't want it to get to this point again. The mysteries of the OEM take down is simply more complex than I want to mess with, although of course it does get easier with more practice. 1) My intent to is make cleaning more enjoyable.

Yesterday the trigger pivot pin from a major supplier arrived. Turned out to be the wrong one despite talking with their 'gun technician'. More to the point, despite what their records say, the pin is NOT the same as the Mk II/Mk III pin. The typical expanded parts image shows the pin as "A34" and the drawing does show the rt frame side as rebated. The pin I received was same diameter the full length of the pin and would not submit to being stuffed into the hole. Further discussion produced squat....

However, 2) enter the lady at the Ruger factory located one of the last few such pins in the bottom of someone's tool box & is sending it right out.

Part of the lure of the Majestic kit, is inclusion of new hammer bushing, if I understood the claim, which may well give decreased slack as I hope.

More thrills to be posted as they become available.

Additional comments solicited.

1) I doubt that 'cleaning' will ever become enjoyable :lol: , but I do read your point.

2) I was going to suggest that I still have a few of those pins, so if things don't turn out, I'd still welcome a PM to [email protected].

 

[m657]

Thanks so much for your kind offer DA. I'm thinking about that Clark trigger with the adjustment screws. And I'm wondering such modern items as Volq and others, yet have not found "Mk I" in their parts list.

Perhaps we should take a conversation to PM to discuss options. I want to do a bit of buffing/tuning as possible as a willing hobbyist/user would reasonably see benefit having done such.

One of the absolute statisfying stages in the match, was the first rather simple set up, where I was just point-shooting without sights. Cleared in average time of under 3 seconds each string. The next stage was far more demanding, I had to sight in, and time rose to nearly 7 sec. average.

The next stage was where the trigger went haywire.

In any case, I intend to use it a lot on steel this year, and don't intend to try to make it something it isn't.....more like 'discover just how well I can get it to function' in this type match. High precision is not a big demand; target are large and close; just making the steel sing a little is all that I'm after.

I have plenty of other actual 'bulls eye precision' style that are less nimble for this type match. In fact, I've been able to get better times using a 10/22 carbine in various forms, than any of the pistols.

 

[m657]

So now I've got the little Beastie back together with the proper pin.....cleaned out the gunk and ready for the range!

Have the Mystic 'speed strip' gizmo at hand but not yet installed.

Everything sure feels slicker with all that gumbosludge outta there.

 

[HardlyDangerous]

I bought my first Ruger MK1 about 40 years ago in a pretty good gun shop south of Cleveland, Ohio. Decided to take it down to really clean it up. I couldn't get it back together so after a few days of trying I took it back to the gun shop, in a box, to have the smith assemble it for me. Went back about a week later and he gave me the same box of parts and said he could send it back to Ruger for me for assemble. Which he did. Haven't tried to take one apart since.