Timing off on single six

muskrat man

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
13
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Ohio
I have a 1975 9.5" single six convertible I picked up for cheap. The timing is off on all six chambers on both cylinders which leads me to believe the hand is worn, would you agree? Will purchasing and fitting a new hand correct the problem?
 
The hand and the star on the back of the cylinder both wear with time, although the hand, being thinner, would wear the most.

Assuming one cylinder has been shot little, as is usually the case with Single-Sixes, that likely rules out the star. Is the mis-alignment equal on all chambers, in both cylinders? Is the cylinder lock-up reasonably tight?

Hopefully a more skilled poster will add to my answer. There are other parts and variables to consider, I'm sure.
 
lockup is pretty tight and all chambers are off the same amount, a rough guess of about 1/16". If you cock the hammer all the way back until it bottoms out on the frame you can hear the latch jump into it's correct position. There are 2 audible clicks, the first when the sear engages and the next when the cylinder latch engages
 
muskrat man said:
lockup is pretty tight and all chambers are off the same amount, a rough guess of about 1/16". If you cock the hammer all the way back until it bottoms out on the frame you can hear the latch jump into it's correct position. There are 2 audible clicks, the first when the sear engages and the next when the cylinder latch engages

So is your concern that the cylinder latches slightly after the sear engages at full cock? Many guns come from the factory that way and function fine. However I don't like it. It doesn't take much to fix. Can you dissassemble the gun? If so here's what you do: you won't need a new part.

Remove the hand (real name pawl) lay it down on it's side on the anvil at the back of your vise. Give it a nice smack just below the two 'teeth' with a hammer. Once is usually enough, it doesn't take much! So try it in the gun. According to the gunsmith manual you are "stretching" it. It's a lot less time and money than fitting a new one and will last for another 30 years. When it's right, the two clicks will be simultaneous.

Edited for spelling.
 
Hello folks thanks for the info, are ruger pawls soft enough to do this? I tried it once with a S&W and it shattered. I'm very familiar with stretching parts as I'm a knife repairman and stretching areas of knife blades and backsprings is often necessary to make them function correctly again. I just don't want to shatter another pawl!
 
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I've "hammer forged" a ton of Ruger pawls. Sometimes I use a propane torch to heat them up a bit (if one's really short) but usually just smack 'em a time or two.

flatgate
 

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