Acorn
Hunter
I want to replace the springs in my SP101s. The seam between the trigger guard assembly and the frame is nearly invisible. When I reassemble will it still fit as nice?
Taking down a SP101
- Thread starter Acorn
- Start date
5of7
Hunter
It will if it don't get buggered up while it is apart.
NikA
Hunter
I would say it's possible to get it to fit as nice, but in my experience it will be difficult. Be prepare to spend some time with a non-marring object "adjusting" it to get it back into place.
PS: the reason it fits so well from the factory is that it's finished after assembly.
PS: the reason it fits so well from the factory is that it's finished after assembly.
57springer
Buckeye
Interesting , thanks for the education !NikA said:
I’ve never been able to get them back together as nice as the factory. I no longer disassemble them because of that.
robmkivseries70
Bearcat
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2013
- Messages
- 44
The main spring can be replaced with out removing the trigger assembly.
NikA
Hunter
Main spring can be replaced, but trigger return spring cannot (it's the takedown detent spring as well) and its bore cannot be addressed either. Personally, on the several samples I have addressed, these changes make more difference in trigger pull than a mainspring swap.
Sugar River
Buckeye
57springer said:
They deliberately heat treat the TG to a softer condition than the frame so it can be "adjusted" to
a near perfect joint. I don't remember precisely how they do it, It's been 25 years since I was in the plant.
Wonderful video. Thanks for posting it.
Can't help but wonder if perhaps the trigger group latch might have been slightly "massaged" to make its release/re-engagement function a little easier.
Full disclosure: I do not own an SP101, but I do own a Security Six and a GP100, and the procedure is similar for these guns . . . but the "Six" and the GP do not take down or reassemble quite that readily. Can anyone address this?
If there's a similar nice video for the "Six" and/or GP I'd really appreciate seeing it. :mrgreen:
Can't help but wonder if perhaps the trigger group latch might have been slightly "massaged" to make its release/re-engagement function a little easier.
Full disclosure: I do not own an SP101, but I do own a Security Six and a GP100, and the procedure is similar for these guns . . . but the "Six" and the GP do not take down or reassemble quite that readily. Can anyone address this?
If there's a similar nice video for the "Six" and/or GP I'd really appreciate seeing it. :mrgreen:
Ale-8(1),
Glad someone found it helpful.
Of course it’s always possible that the trigger group was “massaged” to aid assembly in this video; it takes somewhat more force to re-engage mine yet the procedure remains the same. BTW, I’ve pinched my finger more than once while squeezing the trigger assembly back into the frame = OUCH!
Everyone will be a somewhat anxious the first time they disassemble their SP101, I certainly was. I’m still very careful about not pulling the trigger with that assembly removed.
Just watch the video closely, particularly the trigger position prior to the next step in disassembly or assembly, as with the hammer pivot pin and hammer for example. Also, try to keep the transfer bar oriented correctly during assembly. I haven’t done this enough times to do it in my sleep, just enough to feel comfortable that I won’t bugger anything up in the process. So far, so good.
Glad someone found it helpful.
Of course it’s always possible that the trigger group was “massaged” to aid assembly in this video; it takes somewhat more force to re-engage mine yet the procedure remains the same. BTW, I’ve pinched my finger more than once while squeezing the trigger assembly back into the frame = OUCH!
Everyone will be a somewhat anxious the first time they disassemble their SP101, I certainly was. I’m still very careful about not pulling the trigger with that assembly removed.
Just watch the video closely, particularly the trigger position prior to the next step in disassembly or assembly, as with the hammer pivot pin and hammer for example. Also, try to keep the transfer bar oriented correctly during assembly. I haven’t done this enough times to do it in my sleep, just enough to feel comfortable that I won’t bugger anything up in the process. So far, so good.
paboxcall
Bearcat
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2011
- Messages
- 77
Here's MCARBO's SP101 takedown video posted on youtube. Trigger disassembly starts around the 10 minute mark to get to the spring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txbCmzM4v6A&t=875s&ab_channel=MCARBO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txbCmzM4v6A&t=875s&ab_channel=MCARBO
woodsy
Buckeye
One of the Ruger-made factory video's (can't remember which one) shows an assembler using a plastic-faced hammer to fully seat the group. So that's what I used on my GP and SP.
jazzman
Single-Sixer
Just be careful and don't have your thumb or fingers near the joint as it snaps back together. Ask me how I know
Jim
Jim
After seeing it posted above by Bearcat I had a few hours to spare so couldn’t resist performing an abbreviated version of this MCARBO polishing video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txbCmzM4v6A&t=875s&ab_channel=MCARBO
It was abbreviated in that I only polished and didn’t install any washers or change any springs. It was actually a fairly rewarding experience, almost therapeutic. The only glitch I ran into was re-installing the Pawl Plunger - that little sucker jumped out a few times while attempting to tuck it back under the Pawl.
I’m not sure how much difference the polishing made in trigger pull as I may have already fired and dry fired this pistol enough to smooth things out. Either way I’m glad I made the effort as I did find and remove a small metal burr during the reaming out of the channel for the trigger return spring with the 1/4” bit, plus I now know my way around the trigger a little better.
I used Flitz as my polishing agent because I already had some, plus I already owned a Dremel with the associated bits so the job required no additional investment on my part. Last, because I already owned a can I wiped every part down with Boeshield T-9 before re-installing.
Thanks again to Bearcat for posting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txbCmzM4v6A&t=875s&ab_channel=MCARBO
It was abbreviated in that I only polished and didn’t install any washers or change any springs. It was actually a fairly rewarding experience, almost therapeutic. The only glitch I ran into was re-installing the Pawl Plunger - that little sucker jumped out a few times while attempting to tuck it back under the Pawl.
I’m not sure how much difference the polishing made in trigger pull as I may have already fired and dry fired this pistol enough to smooth things out. Either way I’m glad I made the effort as I did find and remove a small metal burr during the reaming out of the channel for the trigger return spring with the 1/4” bit, plus I now know my way around the trigger a little better.
I used Flitz as my polishing agent because I already had some, plus I already owned a Dremel with the associated bits so the job required no additional investment on my part. Last, because I already owned a can I wiped every part down with Boeshield T-9 before re-installing.
Thanks again to Bearcat for posting.
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