22lrfan
Bearcat
I found what appears to be a stainless Old Model Single Six in a pawn shop today. I didn't know such a thing existed. Serial no. is 120xxx. I haven't had any luck finding info on it. Help.
Stainless Old Model Single Six???
- Thread starter 22lrfan
- Start date
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
It's most likely steel with the blue buffed off and polished to look like stainless.
contender
Ruger Guru
Welcome to the Forum!
No Old Model single-action revolvers were ever built in stainless, period.
Polished plain steel.
No Old Model single-action revolvers were ever built in stainless, period.
Polished plain steel.
WIL TERRY
Buckeye
IT COULD ALSO BE a really high class electroless nickle [or chrome? ] job that can be the spittin' image of stainless steel.
And why do these things show so often in somebody's first post ?
And why do these things show so often in somebody's first post ?
Thanks for all the info. I'm guessing that it is plated. The finish looks to perfect to be just polished. Ya'll saved me from making a mistake and buying this thing. I figured the guys on here would have the answer. I've been reading info on this forum for a couple of years and have always been able to find answers to my questions but this one had me stumped. Thanks again.
Mainly cause they just don't know..................it appears to me to be one of the MetalifeSS finishes offered by Ron Mahovsky, we've had many guns done over the years, through our shop ,done by Ron,and it is a finish that appears,look like and wears better than stainless steel...it is a chromium finish that I "think" he polishes out, and at one time we were told it is an "improved" Armaloy,that first came out down in Texas many years ago.........we see this come up ALL the time, in about any make of gun one can think of.....you may recall Ron did the Roy Rogers Limited Edition guns of the Ruger Super bearcat ( an all steel gun) and he did this finish over special markings, logo, that was approved by the Rogers family(Dusty I recall) and was done back in the late 70's
As for price/value, the cost then was like $85 and add that to the value of the gun, now being it is "customized"...all depends on what they may be asking for it?? It sure will "wear" well or NOT at all!!
As for price/value, the cost then was like $85 and add that to the value of the gun, now being it is "customized"...all depends on what they may be asking for it?? It sure will "wear" well or NOT at all!!
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
It wouldn't prevent me from buying it depending on the price and what I wanted it for.
WIL TERRY said:
I don't remember what my first post was, but... it was probably a question! :mrgreen:
I think a lot of folks "lurk" for a while before joining a new forum. That's how I do it.
Usually, I'm prompted to join because I want to ask a question.
It's not original,,but for $400.00 and you said you could get it for less? I would already own that gun! :wink:
Neat gun to pull out at the range,,
Post some better pic's when you get her, :wink: and welcome to the forum.
PM sent.
Terry
Neat gun to pull out at the range,,
Post some better pic's when you get her, :wink: and welcome to the forum.PM sent.
Terry
"And why do these things show so often in somebody's first post ?"
Probably because folks believe they can usually get a straightforward answer without being ridiculed.
Usually.
Probably because folks believe they can usually get a straightforward answer without being ridiculed.
Usually.
Joe S.
Hunter
Stay away from my gun!!
22lrfan said:I found what appears to be a stainless Old Model Single Six in a pawn shop today. I didn't know such a thing existed. Serial no. is 120xxx. I haven't had any luck finding info on it. Help.
Joe S.
Hunter
you need to get that thing 22lrfan! that way i can shoot it when i come to your house for bar bee que...
he raised a question this morning while we were talking.
can a new model base pin latch be used in this gun? a stainless one...
he raised a question this morning while we were talking.
can a new model base pin latch be used in this gun? a stainless one...
new latch should fit, may have to "fit" it a bit, or you can always 'strip off' the bluing on the old one, Naval Jelly or just polish it out, but,BUT keep it well oiled so as to NOT "rust up" from sitting, lack of maintainance........ :wink:
Ladobe
Single-Sixer
Ale-8(1) said:
Yep (emphasis on "usually", but getting less and less here unfortunately). :wink:
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
It will fit. I bought a brand new one to polish for my OMSS.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
22lrfan said:I found what appears to be a stainless Old Model Single Six in a pawn shop today. I didn't know such a thing existed. Serial no. is 120xxx. I haven't had any luck finding info on it. Help.
22lrfan,
That's clearly a polished out blue steel gun and polished alum alloy grip frame; the alum and steel do not match, the hammer is tarnished which can't happen to stainless, the slots in the screws and cyl pin, and trigger return plunger are still blue, and as noted, the cyl pin latch is blue.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
I have at least half of the base pin latch in real SS and it's new. Cannot remember why I bought it. I'll let it go for what I paid plus a couple or four bits to cover shipping. It's the end with the male threads.
flatgate
Hawkeye
I got a nice example out in a gun show parking lot several years ago. This kinda "strange" looking guy sold it to me. He rode up to the parking lot riding a Unicorn.........
flatgate
flatgate
pwberndt
Bearcat
rugerguy said:
I worked in a plating shop back in 1972/73 and learned there is a lot you can do with chrome. If this is plated, it is nickel run on a special coloring wheel & then chromed. You are correct in that it will wear well, the chrome is harder than the hinges of hell. Nickel is softer and looks yellow when set side by side with chrome. The guy I worked for was an old burr head who could plate anything and was always being consulted on specialty work.
Whatever it is, it looks good.
Joe S.
Hunter
Hey paul
How would one go about removing chrome? Say... If i knew a guy with a chrome plate pre64 winny 94...
How would one go about removing chrome? Say... If i knew a guy with a chrome plate pre64 winny 94...
flatgate said:I got a nice example out in a gun show parking lot several years ago. This kinda "strange" looking guy sold it to me. He rode up to the parking lot riding a Unicorn.........
flatgate
Carl,
Don't you have a "shiney" 4 5/8" from AZ Dan also??
very simple ,quick AND 'easy" to find out if the 'steel' is simply polished out.....use a Q tip with a bit af ANY brand of "cold blue" and touch the metal in some "out of the way" (underneath) part, and if it "darkens" it is "bare" metal, and as such ,you better keep it well oiled......as for the 'latch',,, if they bothered to polish out all the rest of the gun, the 'latch' would take less than 30 seconds to "polish" out to make it match,,,,why 'stop' at the latch??? go figure......
as for the screw 'slots' , they could be dark looking from 'shadows' in the picture taking..try the 'cold blue' and you;ll know before the sun sets tonight...... 8) :roll: :wink:
as for the screw 'slots' , they could be dark looking from 'shadows' in the picture taking..try the 'cold blue' and you;ll know before the sun sets tonight...... 8) :roll: :wink:
pwberndt
Bearcat
Joe S. said:
More to it than removing just the chrome. The chrome process is 3 or more layers.
The first layer is copper plate and can be used to fill small blemishes by buffing the copper and then re-layer the copper.
Second it the nickel plate layer which can also be buffed "Colored" but can't be re-plated because it will peel. Nickel can be put on thick for coloring and adding depth to the appearance.
Last is the chrome. Chrome is a very thin layer that adds the blue color and hardness.
Removing the chrome is fairly easy. Hydrochloric acid will instantly remove the chrome but you want to avoid getting it on the steel parts of the gun because it can cause pitting if left on long enough. Removing the Nickel and copper is more difficult and can involve reversing the plating process in chemical solution & some buffing.
If I had a chrome or nickel plated pistol, I think I'd leave it as is and enjoy shooting or looking at it. I'm sure there are some very good plating shops that could remove the nickel & copper but I think it would be expensive and extreme care would have to be taken to not damage other parts of the gun. I've re-plated old car bumpers and it took a lot of work and buffing. If you decide to do this, use a very good shop because the buffing wheels are powerful & I've seen them grab pieces out of the person's hands and hit the floor; not pretty.
Joe S.
Hunter
Thanks ya. It had me curious.
flatgate
Hawkeye
:roll:
