SR9 recoil springs

[phique2000]

I have a SR9 that I am shooting in IDPA. Been using WW whitebox ammo. My 9mm reloads that I shoot in my Springfield 1911 won't cycle the SR9. Tried a 15 lb recoil spring from Galloway Precision, was a little better but still not reliable. Galloway doesn't have anything lighter than 15 lb.
Anyone know where to get a 13 or maybe an 11 lb. spring for the SR9?
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[OldePhart]

I think you may have an issue other than springs. Try blueprinting the slide and rails to see if you have any areas that are binding. WWB isn't great stuff but it's not super wimpy, either (it's a good bit snappier than my own IDPA hand loads). The bottom line is that any 9mm that is functioning correctly should cycle WWB without problems and without having to go to lightweight springs.

 

[phique2000]

OK, maybe I wasn't that clear in my post, sorry.
The WWB ammo works perfect, 100% reliable.
My IDPA handloads don't have enough power to cycle reliably, that's why I'm looking for a lighter recoil spring.

 

[websterz]

I would buy a stock replacement spring and try removing one coil at a time until your hand loads function reliably.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

I would buy a stock replacement spring and try removing one coil at a time until your hand loads function reliably.

Cutting coils on a spring is a great idea if you want to wreck the crap out of your pistol.

 

[22/45 Fan]

My IDPA handloads don't have enough power to cycle reliably, that's why I'm looking for a lighter recoil spring.

What are those handloads and can you beef them up a bit? WWB isn't that hot and if your handloads don't reach that power level maybe they should be loaded hotter. There are a lot of lighter recoil springs available for the 1911's like your Springfield but not for all other guns.

 

[OldePhart]

OK, maybe I wasn't that clear in my post, sorry.
The WWB ammo works perfect, 100% reliable.
My IDPA handloads don't have enough power to cycle reliably, that's why I'm looking for a lighter recoil spring.

Actually, I think I wasn't careful in my reading.

Anyway, if your hand loads are making the power factor with a bit of margin then they should still cycle most any gun pretty reliably, especially after reducing the recoil spring by a couple of pounds as you've already tried. I think I'd still blueprint the slide and rails. If the gun is new and stiff maybe use a small amount of Flitz and work the slide by hand a bit. Do this a little at a time with normal cleaning/lubrication/and testing after so you don't go too far with it.

If it still doesn't shoot reliably I'd try as others have suggested and kick the charge up a little at a time until it functions reliably. As you've probably figured out by now, one malfunction on a single stage is much more costly to your overall score than the accumulations of tiny fractions of a second saved in the entire match by using a mouse-fart load. Also, slow extraction while shooting WHO around a barricade or what have you greatly improves the chances of a malfunction.

 

[Cheesewhiz]

Changing out recoil springs for competitive shooting is not a fix for all things involving lower powered rounds. The mechanical design of the pistol's lock-up and it's geometry when recoiling is always a factor, different guns will require a particular amount of force in both directions to function properly based on it's design. It is very easy to find that the weaker poundage spring that may allow a pistol to fire, eject a spent casing and then choke at picking up the next round and locking up completely or it's return will be very slow and undependable. Either case will be unacceptable with a gun that's suppose to fire each and every time. Some gun designs don't take well to lighter springs no matter how much playing around you do.

Cutting any spring in a gun is really a great way to end up with a door stop instead of a pistol. Springs are wound around a mandrel when made; to a specified length, wire size and type, spacing between the helix of the coils (helix angle) to come up with a weight factor. Cutting this takes it to an unknown and out of spec spring, stretching it to a new length will take it even further out of spec as the helix angle is changed and is not consistent throughout the entire length.

Cutting springs is just a bad idea. If you can find a spring the works with that gun in all functions and directions, great but your gun design alone may prevent that from happening.

 

[pjvrefugee]

I would buy a stock replacement spring and try removing one coil at a time until your hand loads function reliably.

then, no matter how much you cut off, it is still too short. try a slower powder or a little more charge weight with what you have on hand. I use mid range charges and have gone to a slightly heavier recoil setup. still functions well.