SPEED SIX BROKE

[Merle1948]

Greetings,

My 9mm Speed Six broke at the range after the first round this afternoon. I get very light primer indents & the cylinder sometimes refused to turn.

Any ideas on where to send it (as well as what might have gone wrong), as I understand Ruger no longer has parts.

This had been my wife's nightstand gun, so I'm damn glad it broke where & when it did.

I have never seen any Ruger break, so I was pretty much shocked by this.

Thanks.

:shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[T.A. WORKMAN]

Have you taken the gun apart according to the manual
cleaned it and put it back together yet?
I would try this first. JMO
Terry

Your right is is very unusual for one of these guns to have
this kind of problems.l

 

[GP100man]

Sounds as if the hammer spring possibly failed .

Spring kits are available & not too bad to install.

Ruger service Telephone: 603-865-2442 / Fax: 603-863-6165
(Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm EST)

 

[Cholo]

I have to agree with T.A. WORKMAN. Clean it and clean it good! You didn't mention if you're shooting factory loads or reloads.

Any gun can break. If yours hasn't been messed with by past owners, I believe you'll be good to go with the cleaning, if it's not the bullets.

More info will be helpful...

 

[Merle1948]

Have you taken the gun apart according to the manual
cleaned it and put it back together yet?
I would try this first. JMO
Terry

Your right is is very unusual for one of these guns to have
this kind of problems.l

Unfortuneately I don't have a manual - guess I shouldget one first, eh?
I fear it will need more than a good cleaning, as I could not turn the cylinder until I used both hands -one on the hammer & one to grip the cylinder.

Thanks.

 

[Merle1948]

Sounds as if the hammer spring possibly failed .

Spring kits are available & not too bad to install.

Ruger service Telephone: 603-865-2442 / Fax: 603-863-6165
(Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm EST)

From the light primer strikes, that's what I thought of first.
I jus wonder if a chunk broke off inside & goobered up the works.
Guess I need to get brave & learn how to tear it down & have alook.

Thanks.

 

[T.A. WORKMAN]

Merle,
Take some time and do some looking here.
Good luck.
Terry

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREAR ... itysix.pdf

http://www.google.com/#q=Ruger+speed-si ... 7ebbb573e6

 

[Merle1948]

I have to agree with T.A. WORKMAN. Clean it and clean it good! You didn't mention if you're shooting factory loads or reloads.

Any gun can break. If yours hasn't been messed with by past owners, I believe you'll be good to go with the cleaning, if it's not the bullets.

More info will be helpful...

I bought it used at least twenty years ago, but didn't shoot it much. I have no idea of it's past history. It was my wife's nightstand gun. I let her use it, since the 9mm didn't give as much recoil as a 38 or 357. She is very petite & has small hands.

Recently I decided to give it a workout, so began trying every 9mm factory load I could find, looking for something that shot close to the sights. I have shot it in a number of Postal Matches as well, so it has had about 200 ~ 300 rounds put thru it in the last few months.

I have been using only factory, no reloads. The last few trips out, it had been a bit balky at rotating the cylinder sometimes (but not always), but I thought it was just the new moon clips.

I know that any gun can break, as I have had several S&W's plus a couple of TC Contenders go belly up on me. It was just such a shock that one of my Rugers would break!

Hope this is enough info, but if I didn't cover it all, just ask.

Thanks

 

[Merle1948]

Merle,
Take some time and do some looking here.
Good luck.
Terry

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREAR ... itysix.pdf

http://www.google.com/#q=Ruger+speed-si ... 7ebbb573e6

Thanks again!

 

[Terry T]

Might just need a good cleaning under the extractor.
I had a smith that had the extractor rod begin to unscrew - really did bind up the cylinder.
Dirty firing pin hole could keep the firing pin from retracting fully.

Is the cylinder hard to turn when it's swung out?, When the cylinder is closed but the gun is empty?

How about the front of the cylinder? The forcing cone on the barrel? Power residue build up?

Terry T

 

[T.A. WORKMAN]

I had that happen on a NM single action and it turned out to
be a binding transfer bar. A good cleaning polishing and oiling
cured it.
Keep us posted as to your progress.
Terry

 

[dbarale]

Because of the need to use moonclips, 9mm (and 45acp) revolvers are more susceptible to light primer strikes than others.
I would definetely check the ejector rod and the little screw holding the cylinder release for tightness. My bet is that one of these two (or both) is loose.

Good luck.

 

[Merle1948]

Might just need a good cleaning under the extractor.
I had a smith that had the extractor rod begin to unscrew - really did bind up the cylinder.
Dirty firing pin hole could keep the firing pin from retracting fully.

Is the cylinder hard to turn when it's swung out?, When the cylinder is closed but the gun is empty?

How about the front of the cylinder? The forcing cone on the barrel? Power residue build up?

Terry T

I had the ejector rod start to unscrew a couple of range trips ago, so I pulled it out, cleaned the threads & locktited it - it's still tight so that isn't it.

The cylinder spins like a top when it is open, and ever since I muscled it while loaded it has spun pretty freely when loaded. It also spins freely while empty & the hammer is retracted to allow feewheeling. I looked at the firing pin hole & it look clean BUT the tip of the firing pin looks funny. It seems to be a bit irregular & not smooth. I'm now wondering if the tip has broken off? Has anyone ever heard of this in a Ruger"? I know of several S&W's that have done this, so....

The front of the cylinder & the forcing cone have only a tiny bit of build-up, so I don't think that will do it since the cylinder turs easily.

I now need to look at my notes about various moon clips that were balky (I numbered them when I started having trouble) and try to see if there is a common pattern of either ammo or clips.

It begins to look like I have two seperate problems going on. One makes it not fire & the second moonclip and/or ammo combination making it hard to turn.

But first I have to get it to shoot.

Thanks.

 

[Merle1948]

I had that happen on a NM single action and it turned out to
be a binding transfer bar. A good cleaning polishing and oiling
cured it.
Keep us posted as to your progress.
Terry

Was that when the gun was new? I'd wouldn't be too surprised at a new gun being a bit stiff & needing broken in. My NM 32 combo had to be taken down & cleaned, as it felt like it was full of sand. Took advantage of that to get the trigger polished up too, so it worked out well. The factory does have a few "OOPPSS' slip thru, as does any factory.

 

[Merle1948]

Because of the need to use moonclips, 9mm (and 45acp) revolvers are more susceptible to light primer strikes than others.
I would definetely check the ejector rod and the little screw holding the cylinder release for tightness. My bet is that one of these two (or both) is loose.

Good luck.

AHH, the cylinder release screw - I hadn' though of that.
Thanks

 

[T.A. WORKMAN]

I had that happen on a NM single action and it turned out to
be a binding transfer bar. A good cleaning polishing and oiling
cured it.
Keep us posted as to your progress.
Terry

Was that when the gun was new? I'd wouldn't be too surprised at a new gun being a bit stiff & needing broken in. My NM 32 combo had to be taken down & cleaned, as it felt like it was full of sand. Took advantage of that to get the trigger polished up too, so it worked out well. The factory does have a few "OOPPSS' slip thru, as does any factory.

No the gun was a used shooter that I picked up in a trade.

 

[GilaMonster]

Unfortuneately I don't have a manual - guess I shouldget one first, eh?
I fear it will need more than a good cleaning, as I could not turn the cylinder until I used both hands -one on the hammer & one to grip the cylinder.

Thanks.

manual might help as well, but I'd suggest you watch this youtube video

this and the second part will show you all you need to know, to disassemble a Six-series revolver

 

[Merle1948]

Unfortuneately I don't have a manual - guess I shouldget one first, eh?
I fear it will need more than a good cleaning, as I could not turn the cylinder until I used both hands -one on the hammer & one to grip the cylinder.

Thanks.

manual might help as well, but I'd suggest you watch this youtube video

this and the second part will show you all you need to know, to disassemble a Six-series revolver

Thanks

 

[weaselmeatgravy]

Be sure there is no powder residue under the extractor star as this will cause the star to not retract fully which in turn causes the cylinder to bind.

 

[Merle1948]

Be sure there is no powder residue under the extractor star as this will cause the star to not retract fully which in turn causes the cylinder to bind.

That was the first thing I checked, as I have had that problem with other revolvers. Nothing there, unless it fell out when I ejected the cases.

Thanks for the reminder.

:D :D :D

 

[tekarra]

For a manual try looking here: stevespages.com/page7b

 

[Merle1948]

Because of the need to use moonclips, 9mm (and 45acp) revolvers are more susceptible to light primer strikes than others.
I would definetely check the ejector rod and the little screw holding the cylinder release for tightness. My bet is that one of these two (or both) is loose.

Good luck.

I have double checked the ejector rod & it is still tight.
I discovered I didn't have a screwdriver small enough to fit the cylinder release screw, so used that as an excuse to order a Grace pistolsmith set. :D
Also, I called Ruger customer service yesterday & was told they have most of the parts available. Guess they didn't break often enough to use up the spares! :D At any rate, I will get brave this weekend & tear it down for an inspection & cleaning, before I consider sending it back.

PS: For anyone using a 9mm, I called Ranch Products in Ohio (313-277-3118) and they still have moon clips for the Speed Six. I did have to leave a message, but two different folks called me back in the afternoon. I have a catalog & a sample on the way.

Thanks for the info.

:D :D :D

 

[Merle1948]

For a manual try looking here: stevespages.com/page7b

Good Lord - I had no idea there were that many manuals available!!!

Thanks

:shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Belt Fed]

I had a similar problem with a S&W 1917 Rev. It was a moon clip that was bent just enoough to bind the cylinder. See if the cylinder will rotate when you fire double action with no moon clip or ammo in the chambers. If it does, it is probably not the gun. Try different clips and see what happens.

 

[Merle1948]

I had a similar problem with a S&W 1917 Rev. It was a moon clip that was bent just enoough to bind the cylinder. See if the cylinder will rotate when you fire double action with no moon clip or ammo in the chambers. If it does, it is probably not the gun. Try different clips and see what happens.

It will now rotate freely with no ammo in the gun, but it would not turn at all until I used a LOT of muscle on it with a new full moon clip in the gun. The second new full moon I tried would not even let the cylinder close, so I tried several old half moon clips that had worked fine previously - no good now - would not turn easily. I suspected the new full moon clips at first, but it would not work using half moon clips that previously worked fine, so it appears to be more than a clip problem.

Thanks for the input.

:?: :?: :?: