Some reloading queztions

[grobin]

Some background:
I got a hornady single stage press kit on sale. I'm loading 10mms for competition. I've been using a friend's gear to see if it makes a difference. I've found that head space makes a huge difference in accuracy!

Questions:
Are Redding dies best?? What about the https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012365980/redding-carbide-3-die-set? How good is it?

I'm looking for a very accurate case trimmer. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[wizofwas]

No comment on the Redding dies as I've never used them. I've had no problems with the RCBS dies and do recommend them. They also have a great warranty. Every time I've broke something or wanted to replace a part, they've shipped it to me at no charge. You just can't ask for better service.

I'm not much of an expert at trimmers but I have a Lyman Universal trimmer that seems to be very accurate
https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/case-trimmers-accessories/lyman-universal-trimmer.html
And I also have a very old L.E. Wilson trimmer that can also be set up accurately.
Hope this helps.

 

[Clovishound]

Some background:
I got a hornady single stage press kit on sale. I'm loading 10mms for competition. I've been using a friend's gear to see if it makes a difference. I've found that head space makes a huge difference in accuracy!

Questions:
Are Redding dies best?? What about the https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012365980/redding-carbide-3-die-set? How good is it?

I'm looking for a very accurate case trimmer. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Headspace or COAL? Usually a COAL that puts the bullet closer to the lands, without getting too close and into the lands which raises pressure, can help accuracy. That's one of the advantages of rolling your own.

As to dies, I think any brand will give you good, accurate ammo. This assumes you do your job. I have Lee, Hornady and RCBS dies. The only die set I have had problems with is the RCBS. Not saying RCBS dies are bad, just my experience. For a single stage, with the dies that screw directly into the press, the locking rings that can be tightened are probably going to be best. For a turret or progressive, I prefer the O ring locking. They keep the dies in place, but are easy to remove, or readjust without finding tools.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Personal opinion is that nobody makes "bad" dies these days. Each mfr's product seems to reflect THEIR ideas of how to best solve a problem, which is how to turn a pile of components into good ammo! In other words, you may want to try different brands and see what YOU like best.

I started with RCBS, then tried Lee. I now have all Lee dies and my BIL has a few extra RCBS he didn't have before. We're both happy, and it would be hard to say whose ammo is any better than the other's. And on that subject, I can't find the documentation right now, but for several years Lee advertised that the then current long distance record (1000 yds?) was held by a shooter using one of the original Lee Loader tools that you whacked on with a mallet! Might have been David Tubb, but please don't quote me.

Mention is made of that record here, but there are no real details like there used to be: https://leeprecision.com/reloading-kits/lee-loader-rifle/

Rick C

 

[loaded round]

In my opinion, Redding makes some of the best die sets on the market today. All my dies are Redding except some Dillon dies in common pistol calibers.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Redding dies are some of the best quality ever produced. Also some of the most expensive in general.

 

[woodperson]

I like a separate bullet seating and crimp die personally. Especially with the Lock n Load system which makes switching the dies very fast and easy. Most brands of dies work well. The one Redding die I own ( a taper crimp in .41 Mag) is superbly made and finished. The type of lock ring does not matter much with the Lock N Load because once you get it set you just do not have to move it again.

 

[Ka6otm]

As to dies, I think any brand will give you good, accurate ammo. This assumes you do your job. I have Lee, Hornady and RCBS dies. The only die set I have had problems with is the RCBS. Not saying RCBS dies are bad, just my experience. For a single stage, with the dies that screw directly into the press, the locking rings that can be tightened are probably going to be best. For a turret or progressive, I prefer the O ring locking. They keep the dies in place, but are easy to remove, or readjust without finding tools.

I'm in the same boat as you, more or less. I have Lee, Hornady, RCBS, Redding and Bair dies and the only ones I've ever had problems with and had to return to the factory were RCBS. They made it right, so I don't have too much to complain about.

I also prefer the O ring locking and tighten them with slip joint pliers because I've had a couple that loosened up on my higher volume reloading progressives. I reload around twice a week, both metallic and shotshell and have for a long, long time.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Lee's original reason for the design of their lock ring with o- ring was to allow a little movement so the die could self center when a case is pushed into the die . That idea is not new and has been used by many in the search for precision ammo. Over tightening the Lee lock ring defeats its purpose. Finger snug only is all that is needed. That said, I replace all die lock rings with the best lock rings made, the Hornady lock ring. There is no set screw that will damage the die threads. The screw tightens the ends of the lock ring together not jamming into the die body threads damaging them.

 

[Tom W]

I a have Redding dies for my rifles, RCBS carbide dies for my pistol and revolvers, except for one Hornady die set for 30-06. I started put with Lee dies, but had a hard time warming up to them, and sold them all after a while. I still have other Lee products, mostly bullet molds and measuring scoops that I use a lot.

If you can afford Redding dies by all means get them. You won't be disappointed.

 

[Dan in MI]

I have most brands of dies myself, but prefer Redding. If you are looking for precision tooling Sinclair International is the place to look.

https://www.sinclairintl.com/

Regarding lock rings. I like lock rings with a hex. The set screw "issue" of the screw hitting die threads is easy to fix. Remove the set screw, drop in a couple pieces of lead shot (three #7.5's?) then put the set screw back in place. The lead will make contact with the die and still allow a good tight clamping action with zero die damage.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I have most brands of dies myself, but prefer Redding. If you are looking for precision tooling Sinclair International is the place to look.

https://www.sinclairintl.com/

Regarding lock rings. I like lock rings with a hex. The set screw "issue" of the screw hitting die threads is easy to fix. Remove the set screw, drop in a couple pieces of lead shot (three #7.5's?) then put the set screw back in place. The lead will make contact with the die and still allow a good tight clamping action with zero die damage.

Sinclair is owned by and part of Brownells Gunsmithing Supply. Very good company,
Top line products.

 

[Wishoot]

I have Lee, RCBS and Hornady.

All of them produce fine ammunition IMO.

 

[Psb1911]

I use dies from most major manufacturers.................the best are dies made in a friends machine shop though!

 

[grobin]

Thanks everyone!
Many pistol cartridges head space on the case, if the head space is off the OAL is kind of irrelevant!

 

[SweetWilliam]

I use dies from most major manufacturers.................the best are dies made in a friends machine shop though!

Your buddy makes dies in his machine shop?

 

[RoninPA]

Thanks everyone!
Many pistol cartridges head space on the case, if the head space is off the OAL is kind of irrelevant!

If your head space is off you need to start with a case length gauge to make sure they are the correct length. Too long, they can bind up the cylinder in a revolver, or won't load/feed correctly in a semi auto. Too short, they will feed or chamber but you might get unreliable ignition because they go too deep into the chamber (because of how they head space). The case length is not a function of the dies for a straight wall handgun round so any of the major reloading manufacturers dies should work fine for resizing (remember, this is the diameter, not the length that gets resized).

Once you have determined that the cases are the correct length, then the COAL is played with (along with other factors) to get your best accuracy.

 

[grobin]

Well sort of. If the head space is off but the COAL is correct the round will feed and ignite just fine!! The bullet position will be off resulting in loss of accuracy the cause not being obvious to the trivial observer! With most bullet seating this error is the norm.

 

[Get Wood]

grobin,After reading your post. Unless you are using a Ransom Rest I don't believe You Can Hold a Handgun Still Enough To Tell The Difference In A Bit Of bullet seating depth... May I Ask How Long You Have Been Reloading??? Or Are You Just TROLLING ?????

 

[SweetWilliam]

And am I the only reloader that has never trimmed handgun brass?

 

[RoninPA]

And am I the only reloader that has never trimmed handgun brass?

Nope, I used to shoot PPC to the tune of 1500-1600 rounds per week (practice and matches) shooting .38 spl and never trimmed, just threw them away when the case mouth cracked or body split. That said, I was shooting a GP100 in .357 Mag that I made into a PPC gun so I wasn't as particular about the case length. I loaded with a Lyman Crusher single stage (took forever for that many rounds) then went to a Dillon SDB to load and if a round didn't feel/seem right I pulled and inspected it.

I talked about checking/trimming to make cases that head spaced on the mouth uniform so that you can eliminate the head spacing from the equation if you're not getting as good of accuracy as you expect and to get good COAL with any of the bullets you are using.

 

[loaded round]

I shot bullseye pistol for many years and reloading many thousands of 38 and 45 cases. Since I normally shoot 200 rounds of each twice a week, I did buy a Lyman case trimmer when I started out reloading, but never once did I need to trim a 38 Spl or 45 ACP case. Cases wore out first. Now bottle necked rifle cases are an entirely different situation.

And am I the only reloader that has never trimmed handgun brass?

 

[wwb]

.......... never once did I need to trim a 38 Spl or 45 ACP case. Cases wore out first. Now bottle necked rifle cases are an entirely different situation.

+1

 

[grobin]

I've not had a problem with factory ammo so far, but have had the problem with some brass I got free from the range. Took me some time to figure out where the inconsistent accuracy was conning from.

As for reloading I used to do a lot, years ago, when I was competiting in metallic silhouette. When I got out of that I stoped reloading for quite a few years. I'm just getting back into it because 10mm ammo gets expensive. I've got some new brass comming and I'll see if it's just the 'free' brass that is the problem. If that's it then that 'free' brass wasn't.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Don't use mixed headstamp brass and trim to length when you first load it and you probably won't have any problems with case lengths after that. ...but you can check length once in a while to satisfy your fancy.

 

[Tom W]

And am I the only reloader that has never trimmed handgun brass?

I did it once when I was recuperating from surgery. I never had the urge again.....