Slide Refinishing DIY - Options?

[AGMotorsport]

Hi everyone,

Im the type of person that likes to do things myself, with that being said I am looking to refinish the slide from my KelTec P11. It was originally parkerized but 20 years of on and off daily carry have worn down the edges.

What are the best options for at-home refinishing? I was looking at Brownells Aluma-Hyde II, but im reading nightmares about it clogging, which seem to be manageable if you clean the nozzle properly and shake vigorously before use.

Just curious what other options are out there, if you've actually done it yourself even better!

I appreciate any info!

 

[contender]

Why not re-parkerize it?

 

[AGMotorsport]

Why not re-parkerize it?

I'm considering that, I actually have an email into KelTec right now to see if they will do it.

 

[the_leper_colony]

I'm considering that, I actually have an email into KelTec right now to see if they will do it.

A few of the options I've used in the past:

1) "Paint-over-park" finish - Use a bake-on automotive paint that's resistant to oils, etc. I prefer the medium-temp paints intended for engines & brake calipers to the super-high temp header (or BBQ) paints, that don't seem to resist wear & chemicals as well. Disassemble & degrease the parts thoroughly before spraying, and bake in an old toaster oven (or kitchen oven, if your wife doesn't mind ;^). It's probably obvious, but keep any spray-on coatings on EXTERNAL surfaces only (or parts may not reassemble & function correctly)!

2) Reparkerize at home - I use a concentrate I got from a knife company years ago. Again, I disassemble & degrease the parts thoroughly, pre-boil distilled water in the kitchen, and mix with concentrate PER INSTRUCTIONS in a Pyrex container outdoors, using my gas BBQ to maintain temp. I've almost always had good results, but YMMV (and there is also the acidic park solution to dispose of when you're done).

3) Bead blast & cold blue - I had a machine shop bead blast a surplus Mauser receiver a few years ago & had great results; if nobody touches the fresh surface & it is kept free of oils, it may take a cold blue solution really well! Obviously YMMV.

4) Cold blue over existing park - Disassemble & degrease the parts thoroughly; I've had mixed results, depending on the metal, park color & finish, etc., but sometimes it works great for dealing with light edge wear, etc.

5) Buy another slide - Check GunBroker under "Gun Parts"; you can probably find a used P11 slide or maybe a P11 repair parts kit (entire used gun except for frame) for under $100, hard chrome usually gets higher bids. What's available on any given day is really unpredictable and you have to look for cracks (I've seen a few, bottom of slide forward of the extractor pin) or other damage before bidding, but this might be the easiest option if you're not in a hurry or on a tight budget.

As always IMHO, FWIW, YMMV, etc., etc.

 

[BULL'S-EYE]

Aluma-hyde 2 works just fine and holds up well if you simply read and follow the instructions...

 

[Mobuck]

One tidbit to keep in mind: 'Re-coating' anything will make some difference in fitment.
Many years ago, I bought a real dog of a P85 pistol. Literally a basket case of parts with most of the finish missing and even a few pits here and there. I cleaned the clunker up and sent it for a dose of the predecessor of cera-coat process. When the frame and slide returned, the coating was so thick and gloppy that the pistol wouldn't function. After several episodes of failure to function, I ended up blasting a case of steel case 9mm junk ammo through it with a deadblow hammer in one hand to return the slide to battery. I'm not sure where that gun is right now but it's never been the same. Sort of wishing I'd left it as a scarred, gouged beater that at least was functional.

 

[Actnbill]

Got a cheap Parkerizing kit from Allegheny Arsenal and did a few frames on my gas grill with some Salvation Army pans..... looks like new now