Single Six exhibiting "issues"

Joined
Apr 5, 2004
Messages
2,791
City & State/Province
Granbury, TX. USA
Ok I have a single six. Maybe someone more knowledgable here may be able to help...

The little, spring/plunger that rests behind the trigger, has gotten lodged into the frame. When you cock the hammer it just falls.

The cocking motion does rotate the cylender and im assuming if there was a round in there, the gun would discharge (thus the cylender is currently removed)

I spoke with a nice girl, Kina, from Ruger on the phone and she said to send it in. How much would something like this cost on an old Three Screw unconverted? Will any conversions they make ruin any collector value? This gun is damn near mint.
 
I wouldn't send it in. The single sixes aren't hard to work on yourself or have a gunsmith fix it locally. If you send it in they are going to convert it over to the transfer bar setup
 
They usually send the original parts back to you, but not always. There are no mods to the frame, so some people send in the frame and cylinder without all the fire control parts. It's pretty easy to swap everything after you get it back...
 
I wouldn't return the gun without doing a takedown & cleaning of it. I would remove the plunger & spring, check the hole for crud, & see if I could find what is causing it to bind up.The OM's aren't hard to disassemble & work on.
 
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A lot of folks have sent guns in and they were repaired for free! Especially if they convert it, which they will. As others have said, you could have a gunked up or collapsed spring. These old models aren't difficult to disassembe at all. Just gotta make sure you follow the destructions if you've never done it before!
 
DA-4ruger,

If you fix PCs for a living you can properly disassemble and reassemble a Ruger Old Model Single Six!

Does DA in your handel stand for double action? They are much more complicated than SAs.

Obtain proper Instruction Manual (free from Ruger) proper screwdrivers, insure gun is not loaded, and take it apart, clean, oil and put it back together.

Of the five screws the 3 verticle ones the short one goes in the single hole.

The hardest part is needing 3 hands trying to mate the grip frame to the cylinder frame along with the springs and getting first screw in.

Give it try and it will give you sense of accomplishment.

SATCOM
 
Not saying you shouldn't work on it yourself. I probably would. But don't be shy to send it to Ruger. Their costs are *very* reasonable and if they feel there was a problem with the gun from the beginning they will do it all for free.

I sent an old SS in for repair and it came back in a few days with two new cylinders free of charge.

I've just sent them my MKIII to be rebarreled (some idiot damaged the breech face by dry firing ) and they want $135 parts and labor for that. Which I think is very reasonable.
 
What have you tried so far to resolve the issue if anything?

Before you go thru all the hassle of returning it to Ruger, there's at least one very simple technique to try w/o even disassembling the gun.

Try a little spray lubricant and inertia. Spray a penetrant like Breakfree or similar product into the plunger hole. Then smack the barrel flat on the front of the muzzle with a rawhide hammer or anything else common sense tells you, could not possibly do damage to your "near mint" gun. You can smack it on the side of the main frame close to the plunger but do not hit the aluminum alloy grip frame.

One smack usually does the trick. Then keep it lubed and clean.
 
DA is actually my initials. It could mean double action as well. I really like those. The single six has been sitting in my safe. Trying to make some time to perform a disassemble and inspection
 
there should be enough guys we know in texas who could,, would fix yuo right up, heck ,wish you were here, you could set up my wifes PC and I'd fix the gun for you!!!
yes, as Ty noted, they are quite simple and easy to remedy, and the parts are out there, if yours is "bad", (Only the spring goes 'bad') I'd send another one for free.............
yes, the factory would fix that for "free" as they are gonna change those parts for "free" anyway...its the shippng back and forth , and the "loss" of that nice, old 4 click, smooth action ( YES< the gun would would be made 'safer", thats the whole idea of the safety update)
the call is yours, good luck
 
rugerguy said:
there should be enough guys we know in texas who could,, would fix yuo right up, heck ,wish you were here, you could set up my wifes PC and I'd fix the gun for you!!!
yes, as Ty noted, they are quite simple and easy to remedy, and the parts are out there, if yours is "bad", (Only the spring goes 'bad') I'd send another one for free.............
yes, the factory would fix that for "free" as they are gonna change those parts for "free" anyway...its the shippng back and forth , and the "loss" of that nice, old 4 click, smooth action ( YES< the gun would would be made 'safer", thats the whole idea of the safety update)
the call is yours, good luck
Don't forget the drag line that will be created on the cylinder after the the conversion.
 
I think i have it fixed. Partially at least.. the plunger is poking out again putting force on the trigger preventing the hammer from dropping... if I put enough force (thumb pressure) on the hammer it will drop though... BTW. I love setting up computers.
 
You may have a worn trigger sear/hammer notch or just need a new plunger spring.

Here's how to tell: cock the hammer, hold the trigger forward with a little pressure. If you can still push the hammer off of full cock, you need sear work. If the hammer holds, you need a new spring.
 
If you have determined the original parts to be shot, it won't hurt to try your hand at some poorboy gunsmithing with a fine file and try to fix it.
 
xtratoy is right in fact it's one of your lmited choices since ordering new parts is not an option from Ruger. Although there are suppliers of old model Ruger reproduction triggers, you would need to find old parts on this forum, Gunbroker, etc.

However, I doubt you nedd new parts from your description; the symptoms just doesn't sound so severe that proper trigger sear and hammer notch stoning won't correct it. There are plenty of books and probably videos to google up to show how to do this 10 minute job.

Or take/send it to a single action gunsmith for a "trigger job". You'll get a much better result than dropping in new parts as well!
 
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