SFAR Gas Block Adjustment

[BigDad]

I'm new this forum and the proud owner of a SFAR 308 win 16.1" barrel. So far, I've run a couple hundred rounds through it and it functions well but seems to be hard on brass, it gouges the base of the case head. I've seen lots feedback that this is due to over-gassing and recommendations to set the gas block to the #2 setting to prevent over gassing. When I set it to the #2 setting the gun has ejection and feeding malfunctions. I've run several different factory loads and handloads through it and it malfunctions frequently with all types of ammo on the #2 setting. I don't mind leaving it on the #3 setting but don't like it damaging my brass.

I'm thinking that the gas block may not be perfectly aligned with the port on the barrel. Any recommendations on what I can do to fix this?

 

[hittman]

Welcome to the forum.

Did you run 100 through it on the factory setting of 3? That's what Ruger recommends.
If you tried different brands of ammo and follow owners manual recommendations, a call to Ruger is in order.

My SFAR is 20" barrel. Only 100 through it and no problems yet but, I've not changed the gas block setting either. Thought I would next time I shoot it.

Ruger Videos

ruger.com

 

[BigDad]

Yes, I ran most of the 200+ rounds with the gas block set to #3 as it frequently malfunctions at #2 setting. Ruger recommends using the #2 setting in their manual.

 

[hittman]

Before I threw another 50 to 100 rounds through it at $1.00 each, I'd call Ruger.

They say "Most commercial ammunition will ….." not ALL.
So, it's not an exact science. Be interested to hear what Ruger thinks.
Extractor?
Ammo?

 

[Mobuck]

"it gouges the base of the case head."
'GOUGES' in what way? Generally, adjusting the gas system is a way to achieve 100% function w/o beating up the action. 'Gouging the case head' seems to be something different. Where do the empty cases land when the rifle is fired from a rest at a single target. Imagine the muzzle is 12 o'clock and the butt is 6 o'clock. AR 15's should toss brass about 3 o'clock so I suspect this applies to AR10's also.
Ammo makes a difference also. Some ammo is a bit more robust than other and may operate the action at a lower setting than 'weaker' ammo.

 

[tna9001]

Mine wouldn't run on 3 or 2. A buddy of mine has been having similar although not as bad problems. I'm hoping Ruger gets it figured out but I feel like the SFAR might be a dud.

 

[hittman]

I'm hoping Ruger gets it figured out but I feel like the SFAR might be a dud.

Welcome to the forum!

Maybe a little early to proclaim the SFAR platform as a dud but time will tell.
You have any details you can share?

 

[tna9001]

Hi Hittman, thank you for the welcome.

My SFAR doesn't reliably cycle. The bolt rides over the cartridge around every ten rounds and won't hold the bolt open after the last round at a similar frequency.

I've cleaned the gun, disassembled the BCG, lubed everything, and tried different magazines. The bolt in my SFAR is super tight in the carrier, which may contribute to the issues. The fact that Ruger describes a break-in procedure is troubling, as any firearm should function reliably from the factory.

Bringing a sub 7lb AR in .308 to market for $1k has got to be a challenging engineering feat, but the gun should run right out of the box. The issues I'm having have been reported by others so I don't think it's a one-off situation.

 

[hittman]

You talked with Ruger yet?
Seems they'll want it back …. You agree?

 

[tna9001]

You talked with Ruger yet?
Seems they'll want it back …. You agree?

It's with Ruger now.

 

[Mobuck]

The pics shown are fairly classic failure to fully cycle the bolt. Did you try a few drops of CLP in the little holes in the side of the bolt carrier?
The usual suspects are a mis-aligned gas block, wrong size gas hole in the barrel (or obstructed gas port), or roughness on the interior of the bolt carrier.

 

[tna9001]

The pics shown are fairly classic failure to fully cycle the bolt. Did you try a few drops of CLP in the little holes in the side of the bolt carrier?
The usual suspects are a mis-aligned gas block, wrong size gas hole in the barrel (or obstructed gas port), or roughness on the interior of the bolt carrier.

I expect it's the bolt and or the machine work on the carrier. The bolt is very tight in the carrier.

 

[instructor]

I would imagine Ruger will give the rifle a full treatment of continuous shooting in an attempt to experience what you have so far.
Suggesting some 100 rnds. for a break in period is based on an estimate from early development of the rifle, but it may take some 300 rnds. or more to actually "break it in." Ruger will find the problem, I am sure. I some years ago bought an SR 556 piston AR and it has worked like it should since the first shot until today at the range and fired some 100 plus rnds. through it, very dependable and accurate performer with quality ammunition.

 

[Mobuck]

" I some years ago bought an SR 556 piston AR "
This skirts any/all issues with gas rings, interior size/finish of carrier, and crud build up within the carrier.
I have several AR's with the Adams Arms piston conversion for suppressor hosts and they are great. You want really quiet? Just turn the knob to 'off' and you have a manually operated action.

 

[CjackG]

Is there any recent (2023) news from Ruger on the SFAR issues that many owners have experienced? I am nearing 250 rds in my 16" SFAR and still not able to get to #2 setting on the gas block without jams. I also experienced a lot of brass head gouging in the 1st 100 rds but that has eased now and is occasional light extractor marks. . I also initially had frequent failure of bolt hold open, with and w/o mags. I replaced the bolt latch with an old AR15 latch and that worked so far. I have recently started experimenting with buffer weights with an ODIN adjustable buffer but too soon to know if it helps any.

I have not contacted Ruger as I am not eager to send the gun in and also not eager to start over on break-in requiring hundreds of expensive rounds.
I have owned a lot of different guns over many years and never heard of this kind of breakin requirement.

Sure would like to hear recent experience from others....

 

[JoeA]

I've got the 20" model and still on the factory setting with only about 200 rounds thru it and haven't had any problems.
But I will be looking closer at my brass after reading all this.

 

[CjackG]

I've got the 20" model and still on the factory setting with only about 200 rounds thru it and haven't had any problems.
But I will be looking closer at my brass after reading all this.

Its clearly an over-gassed issue and I have seen several 20" owners that did not seem to have as many problems.
Have you adjusted the gas block from 3 to #2 yet?

 

[WAYNO]

I am very much watching this thread. A local gun store has these now available, and I would like to own one...






.

 

[CjackG]

I am very much watching this thread. A local gun store has these now available, and I would like to own one...

I sold a DPMS AR10 because it was heavy for an old guy... but it never had any of these problems, right out of the box.
The SFAR is nice to handle and recoil is surprisingly light but these issues are tedious.

 

[Mobuck]

"My SFAR doesn't reliably cycle. The bolt rides over the cartridge around every ten rounds and won't hold the bolt open after the last round at a similar frequency."
If I were testing the rifle, I'd call this under gassing. I just looked at the pictures posted of the case heads and you have a serious problem with your bolt face. Pull the bolt and look carefully at the bolt face(or post a picture). There's something badly wrong. If it was just the circular imprint of the ejector, I'd say your ammo is over pressure but it seems there's several brands of brass (factory loads?). That tearing (gouging) shouldn't happen.
Shoehorning a .308 system into a .223(ish) platform has some drawbacks and handling the consequences can be tricky. One of those issues is; how much gas is enough and how much is too much. Gas port size, gas tube length, buffer weight, BCG weight--all these things ride a very fine line of works/doesn't work.
Again, look closely at your bolt face and determine just what is digging into the brass.