Security six question

jeray

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 6, 2010
Messages
8
This Security six was my father's. I shoot mostly .38s though it, but full power .357 mags on occasion, to make sure I can still hit with them. It was made in '76. I know that it has been like this for a while, but I just wanted to ask about the gap between the cylinder and the barrel. Is this a problem, or is it ok?

ruger1.JPG


Sorry, I'm no photographer. Thanks!
 
If you have a set of feeler gauges, you can measure the gap and report back to us. Seeing it in the photograph won't be helpful. If you don't have a set, any autoparts store can sell you one pretty cheap....
the gauges will be marked as to how thick it is...that is the measurement you should post
anything from .004 to .010 should be ok....
 
No matter what the major gun manufactures say, I consider anything over .006 to be unacceptable. .004-.010 should be ok, but why accept the higher end?

Case in point: I bought a last year S&W 29 Classic in the 90's. It had a .002 BCG and I was estatic! The crane to frame fit was the worst I'd even seen in a handgun and sent it back. I asked them to please not mess with the BCG because it shot like a dream and never bound up. Got it back with a .012 BCP and the blue was scratched all to hell. S&W said it was within specs :roll: Back it went for a re-blue and I got it back with a .005 BCG IIRC. It still shoots like a champ. If I had it to do over again, I'd have lived with the poor crane to frame fit.

jeray, how about a real measurement? Pics can be deceiving.
 
Yeah, I've got a set of feeler gauges. I don't know why I didn't think to use them. I'll measure it when I get home and let you know. If it is out of spec is it unsafe to shoot? Is there anyway to decrease the gap?

Thanks guys, I'm a semi-auto guy mostly and know little about revolvers. I just know that I really love this one.
 
If it shoots well, it's OK. If the gap is a bit excessive, there may be more side blast - just need to not let folks stand next to you when you're shooting.
Terry T
 
OK, well if try to push the feeler in from the left side, I can get a .016 to slip in but not go all the way through. In fact, it just barely gets in there at all. The largest one I can get to go all the way through between the barrel and cylinder is .011. I'm not sure what the tolerance should be, and I'm not terribly concerned about velocity loss from a 2.75" barrel, I just want to make sure it's OK to keep shooting it.

Thanks.
 
Thanks, that's good to hear. I've always heard that the Six series guns were built like tanks. I read an article on them that stated that the repair "department" at Ruger for the six series was just one guy. Considering they sold millions of them, if that's true, that's some pretty serious reliability.
 
Would .004 to .010 be the specs you are looking for in most any revolver....DA or SA; S&W, Ruger, Colt, etc?
 
It is within Ruger specs, but on the high side.

If you're experiencing lead spray and excessive spitting (dangerous condition if you shoot at open table ranges, with someone to your side), you might want to find an experienced revolver'smith to shim it a bit tighter.
 
Well, is there a revolver smith that you guys would recommend? There are 2 good smiths here in my area, but they are both general gunsmiths, and I don't think this would be kinda thing they would want or be able to do. I know it's not a big deal, but I just want to be sure that it is good to go for years to come.
 
Right on. How exactly does the shimming process work, is a shim welded in on the barrel end? Like I said, revolver tech is pretty new to me. Thanks.
 
Think of a shim like a thin washer ...... you just install it between existing parts.

This makes it totally removable/changeable.

At 0.016" I'd sure be looking into it!

Not dangerous ....... just agravating!


Three 44s
 
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