Ruger Number 1 accuracy - How does it compare?

[Quarterbore]

I am not in the market for one quite yet but I have wanted a nice Ruger #1 to use as a varmint rifle for a number of years but I am a bit particular when it comes to accuracy. If one of my rifles will not shoot under an inch at 100-yards, at least as far as a bolt gun intended to shoot varmints, I will not keep it.

My preferences in the Ruger #1 would be either the 223, 243, or 25-06 and a long heavy barrel would be prefered. My current varmint rifle is a Rem 700 PSS that I had rebareled to 243 with a 26-inch heavy douglas barrel and that gun shoots just over 0.5-inch groups at 100-yards with little 55-gr Nosler Balistic Tips that are screaming at right at 4000-fps.

I am trying to figure out if I can get a Ruger #1 to shoot in the same league as a worked over Remington 700 or am I setting myself up for disapointment and I should consider a more modest use for a Ruger #1?

A more modest use might be a 308 for deer where I very rarely shoot out to 100-yards and a very long shot for deer could be say 200-225 yards which does not require quite the level of accuracy as popping a groundhog at 500+ yards. I just don't know if the Ruger #1 is a capable target gun or really better described as a sporting gun.

 

[picketpin]

Go to the Yahoo Group for #1s and check the groups in this years postal shoot.

The .224 or under was won with two five shot groups under .400 as were the 6mm Group. Granted both were shot with factory PPCs that were worked over.

I know MANY guys post how their #1s shoot 1/2" out of the box. My experience after 40 years of owning, shooting and hunting with #1s is that SOME do and many don't but all shoot well unless there is a problem.

The best I've shot with my 22PPC and 22BR to date are 5 shot groups under .500. Every once in a while I get one into the .300s. The very best 5 shot group I've ever shot with a #1 is .315 with a custon #1"V" in 257 Roberts.

The best #1s will shoot as well if not better than MOST bolt rifles. On the other hand the very best bolt guns will always outshoot the #1. This has everything to do with engineering. The #1 is a 2 piece stock. The bolt cams the action tighter together when closed while a #1 forces the action and barrel apart a bit when the block is raised. It's just the nature of the beast.

#1s can be finicky about barrel harmonics and every one I ever owned had a load it prefered. Sometimes it takes years to find the bullet, bullet weight, powder, primer, brasss and seating depth that an individual rifle really likes.

To be honest, that's why I own and shoot them. I can spend years getting one right and it gives me a lot of time to tinker.

On the other hand if I was worried about nothing but accuracy for the same money as a full blown #1 might end up costing you, a guy could buy a custom Stolle Panda or Grizzly and all the whistles and bells. In all likeyhood it will out shot a #1 with the same money spent on it. But then that isn't the issue for most #1 owners.

It's about pride of ownership and using them to shoot/hunt.

The other issue is caliber. There is such a thing as inherient accuracy and there are some cartridges that work better than others. Most over bore cases don't work as well as more bore balanced cases. The 25-06 is a coyote killing SOB but it really isn't a lot of fun after a day on a PD town, just too much recoil.

If I were building a 25 caliber for accuracy and accuracy only I'd probably build a 25 PPC or a 25 BR.

The answer to your last question is that the #1 is/was advertised as the best single shot sporting rifle for the money. It was NEVER intended or designed as a target rifle. If it was THAT accurate the BR boys would be using them, they aren't and that should answer your question.

On the other hand most varmint #1s will hit a PD out as far as you can practically hit stuff. As far as hunting rifles, a #1 should kill anything within normal hunting rages. I certainly wouldn't even hesitate if it was under 350 yards and I have hit/killed stuff way way further than that.

Good luck

RWT

 

[roofinspector]

I think a No.1 worked over can get down to the 1/2" at 100yds for a 5 shot group occasionally. Just my own estimation.

No doubt the No.1 is more fussy than the Remington 700. Lots of things stand out there in the two designs.

If I was into trying a No.1 for varmints, I would decide on the basic parameters of the rifle first. Obivously; as you well know, a coyote carrying gun is probably different in stature than a prairedog gun; at least for some folks......

I would discard the factory barrel in lieu of an after market stainless handlapped barrel from a major maker known in shooting circles or competitions. One target does not tell all really, just an indicator; competitons in some arenas show 5 consectative groups. The lapped barrels clean up easily, the factory barrels can be troublesome in that regard, especially if a lot of rounds between cleaning. Cleaning techniques can extend the useful bore life.

Get some good grade bullets and use benchrest type techniques for the reloads. Tune the load to the particular rifle. Shoot it a lot, like you would normally do as a shooter. Bring the trigger down from the high effort factory trigger, to a feel that you can live with on the paricular useage involved.

Use a good scope that returns to POI. Mount the scope stress free the best you can. In the No.1, the hanger/forearm is an interesting item as to accuracy. A heavier varmint taper barrel usually will be more tolerant than a slender No1A type barrel with forearm bedding.

Good components is key even with the good bolt guns, no different with the No.1 really, just a bit more to go to get there sometimes. I think a heavy barrel will help hold things together for you over time.

Basic gist is to use good components, custom barrel, and shoot it a lot.

 

[2manyknives]

I always liked the way Ruger 1's looked , but never thought I would own one because of sub-moa snobbery on my part. I just figured it wasn't worth buying if it couldn't be super accurate. Then my dad gave me a 1V in .22-250. It was not real accurate when I got it (1-2 moa), but after a Hicks unit, re-crowning & a little trigger work (MOyer) it is in the 1/2 - 3/4 moa range. Is it my most accurate gun...nope. Is it the prettiest.....nope. Is it my favorite to shoot & carry in the woods.....yep! I just love that gun! I think it has a lot to do with how compact it is. It really points well & just feels right....ya know? My advice is that if you want a super accurate varmint killer, you probably won't be satisfied, although some shot exceptionally well. If you want a rifle that feels, carries & looks as well as any out there, buy it. Like you said, maybe get one in a deer caliber.

Good luck!

 

[45flattop]

I do know of at least two partial fixes for #1s that won't group as
well as we like, one is a thingy, sorry for the inexact language, that
Brownells sells that attaches to the hanger under the forearm and
seems to dampen harmonics in that area and the other is easier
still as I've used it successfully witha 22-250 , you put a rubber O
ring under the head of the forend screw and retorque it, same
ultimate effect as the Brownell's thingy. The rubber O ring idea
came from old Elmer Keith way back when actually, its also been
used on the angled forend screw on the M77, successfully.

 

[dfletcher]

I like the No 1 and think it's about the nicest looking rifle out there. And I suppose any rifle can be extensively worked over to do well in a particular field, but I don't think the No 1 is a better choice than the 700 for serious (or even "sort of" serious) target shooting. It has a slow lock time and the hammer hits pretty heavy, the trigger is not all that good and there's the whole forend problem. The Remington 700 has none of these problems plus the advantage of some fairly easy add ons that help accuracy.

I suppose the No 1 can be pretty accurate - I'd like to buy one in 6mm Remington - but I think it takes a back seat to the 700.

 

[picketpin]

Apples and Oranges. Guys don't usually buy #1s thinking they are buying a target rifle or one that can be tweeked to work like a bolt gun.

I own a few serious bench rest rifles in various bolt actions and none are in 700s because when you get to that point the 700 isn't really that competative.

It's all about what your neeeds or desires are and just what you are willing spend.

I buy and hunt #1s because I like them and I have never failed to kill game with one that could possibly be blamed on the rifle. Add to that the pride of ownership and I buy far more #1s than anything else. Not exclusively, but certainly more than anything else.

I'm not welthy, far from it. However, if I save for a few months there really isn't much I couldn't buy at least one of. That being said, I usually buy #1s. ;-)

RWT

 

[Ewalker]

picketpin has given some good advice and made some good points. I shoot with a guy that has 2 #1 ss in .25-06 the first one he bought would group maybe 2" with a flyer to the right and high, he put that gun away went and bought another #1 same as first gun it shoots identical group as the first rifle with a high flyer to the right. I don't think it is the gun at this point. Both rifles were stock. I have always heard that some #1 were just not that accurate. I have and have had several #1s and have never been disapointed.

 

[martyj]

I have to admit though the number 1s are very accurate very well made but don't sell the m77v short or the m77r. I have never had a bad one unless its the unfired one in the box.
My 220 swift with Norma ammo will shoot a group you can cover with a dime.
Its all preference and practice

 

[gcf]

... If one of my rifles will not shoot under an inch at 100-yards, at least as far as a bolt gun intended to shoot varmints, I will not keep it.

... My current varmint rifle is a Rem 700 PSS that I had rebareled to 243 with a 26-inch heavy douglas barrel and that gun shoots just over 0.5-inch groups at 100-yards with little 55-gr Nosler Balistic Tips that are screaming at right at 4000-fps.

For the record, you can take picketpin's comments to the bank.

For myself, I would submit that if you can live with 0.5" out of a custom 700, I see no reason why you would not be able to live w/ a No.1 - provided that the rifle is "right", & that you are willing to put some time into load developement.

I shoot a bone stock, skinny barrelled No.1-A in 7x57, that will normally turn in "best" groups (from every range session) that average 0.5" - 0.65" off bags, at 100. It is NOT set up as a bench rest gun, & consequently, I have to work to get those groups. But there lies the challenge.

As has been stated, their true niche is as hunting rifles - but that does not mean that they do not shoot.

I would suggest that if you have the No.1 itch, then scratch it. Start with a factory gun, work on load developement, make no modifications - 200 to 300 rounds at least, & give it a chance.

If it does NOT shoot well, send it back to Ruger, & diplomatically suggest they get it right. From my experience, they will.

You will either end up hooked like the rest of us, or decide that it does not suit you personally. You will never really know if they are right for you, w/ out putting in the trigger time though.

 

[Quarterbore]

Thanks for all the advise and even for the few PMs I got offering to sell me a gun or two. I am not in a rush to buy one but I have seen them every now and then locally and I just have not found one in a caliber I wanted yet.

It soulds like I can live with what was described here and perhaps a sporter weight in 308 would be a better place for me to start then a heavy dedicated varmint rifle. I say 308 as I have several 308s already and buy and stack 308 ammo by the case (FALs, AR-10s, Rem 700s).

I just need to keep an eye out and see what fate brings my way but I have to stop buying all these Ruger Revolvers if I will have the money to buy a Number 1 if I find one.

 

[mattsbox99]

I say you get an oddball caliber, #1s are fantastic rifles. My 26" 1B .25/06 is a full 3" shorter than my M77MKII .25/06. This makes for excellent balance. I haven't found the perfect load for it yet, but it does shoot just over an inch @ 100 yards with the same load that shoots .3 MOA in my other Ruger .25/06s

 

[langenc]

""The rubber O ring idea
came from old Elmer Keith way back when actually, its also been
used on the angled forend screw on the M77, successfully.""

Have a 77 that dont shoot as well as I think it should.
So is that just a little O ring put onto the forend screw and then torque it home??

 

[lev83]

No 1 is not really intended to be a bench rest rifle but I have had several that coule shoot MOA to 1/2" groups with only minimal tweaks. Rifle offers a good deal of nostalgia and is quality workmanship but if you really want bench rest accuracy I would stay with bolt action rifle.

 

[langenc]

Put a small piece of plastic coffee can lid between stock and action, adjacent to angled screw.

It shot about 1.5"--tightened screws 2x-a little each time and quit with 3 of 4 covered w/ dime and the fourth about 5/8" out from the other 3.

 

[HNB]

Somewhat depends on the caliber and style. I had an old 220 swift in a heavy barrel that was a tack driver. I had one in 270 Weatherby that the point of impact moved 2 inches between the first and second shots no matter what I did. I have owned several others in various calibers and each one was different. With the "o-ring" trick and a few other simple modifications the rifles would usually shoot 1.5 MOA or better. But when it comes to the 45-70 the equation changes. I have owned three. Every one of them were TACK-DRIVERS. I still own two of them. One is stainless w/laminated stock, and the other is the standard blue model. I sold my third one to a friend. I can get sub-moa out of all of them with both cast and jacketed bullets. Half inch three shot groups @ 100yards are not unusual. I quite literally get clover leaf groups day in and day out. Both are scoped. One with a Leupold 2.5x8x36 VX-3 w/Boone & Crocket Reticle, and the other with a 1.5x5x20 VX-3. I can consistantly hit clay pigeons out to 300 yards with the 2.5x8x36 scoped model on a good day. Love my 45-70's.

 

[Ruger1441]

I used to shoot a couple of Number 1's in 7 mag. Both would shoot under
MOA all day long. I remember the first time at the range with one. The range officer came over and made sure to tell me that #1's just will not shoot tight groups. I told him to look at my target and say that again

Lets face it they are just beautifull guns and all the ones I have shot are
accurate enough. I don't remember shooting one that would not shoot under MOA with the right loads

 

[mcknight77]

If I may interject a bit to the previous good advice....

IMHO, if you want the best chance of having a No.1 shoot very well look for an early one. Serial numbers below 130-05xxx will ensure you get a factory installed Douglas Premium barrel. This includes the non-prefix rifles. Also look for one in one of the inherently accurate cartridges like .22-250, .243Win, .308Win, or .300WinMag.

Or alternatively look to a recent manufacture, it will have one of Ruger's hammer-forged barrels.

No.1s made through the mid-70s and 80s have Wilson barrels. Some are good barrels, some are so-so. I have, or have had, several that were very accurate, but some took some work to get there. Some shot MOA right out of the box.

I have three non-prefix No.1s, a .22-250, a .243Win, and a 6mmRem. All will shoot under MOA with most any load. All will shoot .5MOA with it's favorite load.

Don't tell Picketpin that I told you this secret. He's currently trying to buy up the market on early No.1s!

 

[jakes10mm]

Good information! I have a Liberty model in 243 and a newer #1 in 45-70. Both are very accurate rifles. I've been considering adding more #1's to the safe, specifically in 30-06 and another 45-70 (stainless model). The #1 just feels right to me! I have several WInchester 70's that may be lost in the quest for more Rugers, but worth the sacrifice. Surprisingly, I feel driven to single-shots as a results of my public lands hunting....bolts, pump and lever hunters spraying the woods at the sight of a deer. Single-shots force you to pick an ethical shot and aim well.

By the way, my 45-70 is toped with a NECG Peep Rear Sight and will group 2-3" at 100yds and break clays consistently at 200yds. If I scoped it, I'm certain it would print tighter groups like others experience.

 

[jakes10mm]

Looking at a No. 1 with the serial number range 131-XXXXX. Does this fall into the questionable barrel category?