Ruger Double Action Slotted Ejector Rod Screwdriver Bit

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Ruger 10/22

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 23, 2022
Messages
57
Location
Clarksville Indiana
I have been looking at the cylinder of the Ruger SP101 & need to either make or buy the slotted screwdriver bit to open the cylinder up & remove the ejector
Saw it was available at Brownell's for $12.49 so I might just order one & put it in my Wheeler Screwdriver Kit
BROWNELLS RUGER® DOUBLE ACTION SCREWDRIVER SET | Brownells
I swear my pin looks longer than that slot is deep? Guess I could always take it to the cut off wheel on the grinder & deepen it as needed, But that was the idea of just buying one & not having to modify any of the tools I already have.. Could use the Dremel smaller cut off wheel too...
My cylinder has .004" of end shake = Not Much BUT have .002" & .003" shims
Cylinder gap is .007"-.003"
Wanted to open it up to clean the most reses were the cylinder turns on the yolk, I can see a few small burrs in the there
Cylinder does spin clean & clear like a bicycle tire
L 080432001 1
P6110007 1

Here's the bit I made up for the SP101s cylinder
I had the first cut centered but when I made a 2nd pass it became off center & too wide but worked anyhow
I should have just filed or widened the slot with the cut off wheel
Going to order 2-3 of this bit from Wheeler & make another
P6150001
P6150003

Cleaned lubricated the ejector rod + added a .002" end shake shim & this made the end shake .0015"-.002" + moved the cylinder .002" closer to the firing pin making the reduced power hammer spring more effective IMO
Measured with feeler guages, but a dial indicator would give a more accurate reading

Going to order a few of these .025" thick bits or modify one of the bits from Brownell's
 

Sugar River

Buckeye
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,052
Location
S Florida
I don't trust to memory at my age so I went and checked the Brownells bit I bought decades ago when I took the armourer's course in Newport.
`And Bingo, my recollection was right. It doesn't show well in the picture above but the center of the bit is drilled out so that the pin actually slides inside the bit when in use.
In my opinion it's well worth $12.
 

Ruger 10/22

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 23, 2022
Messages
57
Location
Clarksville Indiana
I am going to order one from Brownell's next time I need something
I note that some GP, SP, RH & SRHs are using a different tool & bolt seen in this photo
Haven't seen one of these YET!
It's a tamper resistant 1/8" with a larger center nub than a standard tamper resistant tool, which I have a Craftsman's Set of
Bought to work on laundry machines when I was a maintenance man
It could be drilled with a hardened drill bit in a drill press with coolant
Tamper resistant ejector rod  tool

Here's another photo I found at TriggerShims.Com that shows a bit better photo of the slotted tool
It does appear to have a hole drilled in it from this photo
Rda ejectorbit lg
 
Last edited:

Ron IL

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
85
Location
Southern Illinois
No need to drill it. It fits right on there. In fact I think the pin pushes in when you put the bit in there. I had to get one when my cylinder came lose. Works good. Well worth the price to have it in your tools.
 

RRM

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2022
Messages
203
Location
NWFL
I was going to mention Triggershims. He has a ton of info on the site, though it can be a bit of a challenge to get through. Seems you know of it though. I ordered the bit from Brownells.
 

RRM

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2022
Messages
203
Location
NWFL
Does the SP101 have a separate trigger return spring?

If so, you really want to check that return tunnel out. I had a "giant" drilling remnant hanging on the trigger side of that tunnel in a SRH. I think it had been interfering with the return spring. If it had broken off in use, it definitely could have gummed up the works. Doesn't say much for QC.

I polished up that whole return tunnel (and a bunch of other areas) with diamondpaste to get rid of everything that was dragging on my return. Slicked it right up.
 

Ruger 10/22

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 23, 2022
Messages
57
Location
Clarksville Indiana
The trigger housing latch plunger & the trigger return spring are one and the same
And yes, they are known for having a rough tunnel for the plunger & spring, some run a drill bit by hand through the tunnel, but I clean it up with a rolled-up piece of sandpaper & polish it gently just enough to make it work smoothly & oil lightly, really makes a difference on the trigger pull & return
I have seen a few with a burr that really made the trigger rough & gritty
Every GP SP RH & SRH needs this channel cleaned up
Makes you wonder how come Ruger can't make one without it being rough inside
 

RRM

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 12, 2022
Messages
203
Location
NWFL
Makes you wonder how come Ruger can't make one without it being rough inside

They could, but it takes time and effort. That equates to a gun with an un-acceptable market price, IMO. Likely the same reason the Marlins that Remington produced often were poor examples.

I did hand turn a drill bit first to catch any major burrs--and there were a couple more. Next, wool polishers on a dremel starting with 800 diamondpaste and working up from there. Polished tunnel and the plunger. When metal was mirror bright and machining marks removed, I finished it off with a polisher wheel loaded with molybdenum disulfide. Made it super smooth and put in only the slightest drop of lube to finish it off.

Between doing that to all the mating/bearing surfaces on the gun and shimming with Triggershims, it made a remarkable difference in both DA and SA trigger pull. Super smooth and light.
 

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