replacing base pin latch spring in blackhawk

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jack76590

Bearcat
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
37
I am considering replacing the spring in my base pin latch of my ruger blackhawk, 41 magnum. I have purchased a wolff extra power spring. The original spring seems too weak, esp if use heavy loads.

So has anyone replaced this spring? What were the results?

The nut part has a slot to hold in place. But a regular screwdriver will not work as screw comes thru the nut. It look like I need to cut a slot in a screwdriver to make a "special tool." Has anyone done this? Idea appreciated. I am thinking of taking cheap screwdriver and using moto tool to cut slot.

Thanks for any idea, experiences.
 

rkrcpa

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
353
Location
SE Pennsylvania
I replaced mine years ago, never had a base pin back out. Of course, I never had one back out before I replaced it either. I just look at it as cheap insurance.

As far as the tool, you can either buy one or as you suggest, grind away at something you already own. That's what I did.
 

Dale53

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
925
Location
Hamilton, Ohio USA
Brownells has a nice "for the purpose" tool:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=695/Product/RUGER_reg__SA_CENTER_PIN_LATCH_TOOL

Dale53
 

427mach1

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
970
Location
Georgia
I replaced the factory spring on my 41 with the Wolff spring but this did not stop the pin from walking when shooting hot loads (265 grain Cast Performance WLNGC, 21.2 grains of Lil' Gun). I ended up buying the Belt Mountain base pin with the set screw. Problem solved.
 

G2

Hunter
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
2,528
Location
UT/AZ
I have installed several and all have worked 100%, cheap easy fix.

As for the special tool, naaaa grab your little vice grip plyer tape up the teeth good and give it the squeeze.

Trying to hold a special screw driver with one hand and then turn w/ another screwdriver with the other .... well one of em slips and ScRatCh!!!! ohhhh sheit :roll:
 

jack76590

Bearcat
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
37
G2 said:
I have installed several and all have worked 100%, cheap easy fix.

As for the special tool, naaaa grab your little vice grip plyer tape up the teeth good and give it the squeeze.

Trying to hold a special screw driver with one hand and then turn w/ another screwdriver with the other .... well one of em slips and ScRatCh!!!! ohhhh sheit :roll:

Job completed. Ruined one Harbor Freight screwdriver, but from a set and they average about 75 cents a screwdriver.

On second try got groove in screwdriver right with little grinder on dermel tool.

To avoid problem you mention, I put my "special tool" in vise and used one hand to hold ruger with nut engaged in "special tool" and used other hand to turn regular screw driver. Worked fine.

I had considered using small vise grip as you suggest. I think either way will work.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and help.
 

jack76590

Bearcat
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
37
427mach1 said:
I replaced the factory spring on my 41 with the Wolff spring but this did not stop the pin from walking when shooting hot loads (265 grain Cast Performance WLNGC, 21.2 grains of Lil' Gun). I ended up buying the Belt Mountain base pin with the set screw. Problem solved.

I went to their website based on your comment. How does the set screw work? I can not understand how it has anything to engage. And do you have to unscrew set screw, when you take out cylinder to clean revolver? Thanks.
 

J Miller

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 30, 2000
Messages
977
Location
Not in IL anymore ... :)
jack76590 said:
427mach1 said:
I replaced the factory spring on my 41 with the Wolff spring but this did not stop the pin from walking when shooting hot loads (265 grain Cast Performance WLNGC, 21.2 grains of Lil' Gun). I ended up buying the Belt Mountain base pin with the set screw. Problem solved.

I went to their website based on your comment. How does the set screw work? I can not understand how it has anything to engage. And do you have to unscrew set screw, when you take out cylinder to clean revolver? Thanks.

You have to drill a small hole in the bottom of the barrel for the set screw to enter. Yes to take out the base pin you have to unscrew the set screw each time. There are other things to look at to fix a base pin that jumps the latch. The Belt Mountain base pin might cure that problem, but it can in certain circumstances create others.

Joe
 

Pal Val

Buckeye
Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
1,554
Location
S.E. PA, USA
My SBH Hunter has a Belt Mountain base pin with the set screw. I didn't drill a hole in the barrel for it. Instead, I tightened the screw, then undid it and found the point where it scraped the metal. A tap on an awl made enough of an indentation for the screw to catch there. No need to drill into the metal.

I only tighten that screw when shooting in the field. The strong Wolff spring does a good job of keeping things in place at the range.
 

w5lx

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 25, 2002
Messages
334
Location
North Texas
I asked the same question to Belt Mountain in an email and received this response:

Question:

"Using the standard locking or the #5 locking Ruger base pins, do you have
to "dimple" the area where the lock-screw contacts the gun so that it
won't slip, or do you just tighten the lock-screw down tight so that it
makes it's own "dimple?" If you have to "dimple" the area where the screw
contacts the gun, what method works best?"

Response:

"....the dimple is a good thing if you can get it in the right spot. It is
not mandatory, just lightly snugging the screw will work. Thanks, Kelye @
Belt Mtn"
 

CraigC

Hawkeye
Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
5,197
Location
West Tennessee
Hmmmm.....not doubting the experiences of others but be sure you have a problem before you go fixing it. I replace all the springs in my single actions, usually with Wolff kits. At present they number somewhere over two dozen. However, I have a sackful of the extra power basepin latch springs because I've never had the need for them. Never had a basepin work itself out under recoil and while I do install Belt Mt. #5 basepins for better traction and a longer ejector stroke, I never engage the setscrew. YMMV.
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
I have a "Liberty" era .45 cal. Blackhawk. There was NO WAY to keep the Base Pin seated during firing. Linebaugh installed a set screw in the Base Pin along with a small hole in the barrel.

One should not create a "bind" in the base pin via over tightening the set screw. That could effect the cylinder's alignment with the barrel.

JMHO,

flatgate
 

Driftwood Johnson

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
699
Location
Land of the Pilgrims
Howdy

I have installed a bunch of Belt Mountain pins in my Vaqueros and Colts. I only used one of the pins with a set screw once. Yes, to remove the pin you need to loosen the set screw. Which can be a pain in the neck because you need to keep the tiny allen wrench handy. I used the method where I tightened the screw to make a dimple, then I enlarged the dimple slightly. Don't remember whether I used a drill or a metal punch, it was quite a while ago.

The reason I don't use the set screw models anymore is
1. you need to keep the teeny allen wrench handy, and
2. if you over tighten the nut just a teeny bit too much, it bends the pin, which causes the cylinder to bind.

I have never installed a stronger spring.

If you find the base pin of your Ruger backing out under heavy loads, chances are the latch does not fit properly. These things are mass produced, they are not custom fit, and it is not unusual that they do not fit properly. Installing a stronger spring will address the symptoms of a poorly fit latch, but it will not address the root cause: a poor fit.

Belt mountain pins have the slot that engages the latch cut horizontally across the pin. Some Ruger pins have the slot cut this way, some have the slot cut around the circumference of the pin. A slot cut across like the Belt Mountain arrangement is better because it gives more surface area for the latch to engage. A slot cut around the pin affords less surface area for the pin to engage. I have that direct from Kelye at Belt Mountain, which is why he cuts them that way. Cutting the groove around the pin is cheaper.

If you have a pin with the groove cut across the pin, try this:

Remove the pin and observe how far the latch travels to the rest position. Then reinsert the pin and see how far the latch travels to the engagement position. Try pulling it out and letting it fly. Does it snap all the way home? If not, the groove needs a little bit of careful enlargement. You can do this with a small rat tailed needle file. Apply some ink with a sharpie onto the groove, and snap the latch to home. The ink will be smudged where the latch engages the groove. Remove a tiny amount of metal in the groove only where the ink is smudged. Try again. Repeat this until the latch snaps smartly all the way home. It has now been properly fitted and there will be more surface area engaging the latch. Your pin jumping problems will go away.

I have done this with regular Ruger pins as well as Belt Mountain pins. Unfortunately, this does not work so well with a Ruger pin with the slot cut around the pin, only with the slot cut across the pin. If you have a Ruger pin with the slot cut around the pin, I suggest replacing it with a Belt Mountain pin, and then see if any further fitting is needed.

The Belt Mountain pins I have done this way all hold tight even with heavy recoiling full Black Powder loads with 250 grain bullets.
 
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