RELOADING FOR A MINI14

[Black Fly]

I've been reloading for more than 50 years, but have never reloaded for a semi auto rifle, except for a friend's Garand about thirty or forty years ago. I load for bolts, doubles, pumps, levers, as well as revolvers and pistols. My notes showed that I had to stay with a medium burning powder for the Garand. My son in law has a 180 series Mini and I have a 580 series on the way . Are there any special considerations I should pay attention to? Any secrets that help in developing loads that might be different from a bolt rifle. I promise not to tell anybody if you share them here. Peak velocity is not paramount. Accuracy and case life are more important. Most shooting will be for casual target shooting, with some use for predator hunting. I don't expect we will do much shooting over 200 yards with these rifles.
Appreciate any advise.
Thanks
Bfly

 

[96/44]

Just make sure to keep your cases trimmed, and always full length resize. My mini will cycle with any starting load I have tried, I prefer Varget powder and 62-68gr bullets. I wouldn't expect too much as far as brass life though, the brass tends to get pretty beat up on ejection, not to mention that they like to throw the brass about 20ft.

 

[mattsbox99]

96/44 is right on, Minis are tough guns and very reliable even with reduced charges. They beat the heck out of brass too, at least the case mouth gets beat pretty good.

I recommend ASI's adjustable gas block or their reduction kit to slow the bolt speed down so it doesn't beat on the brass so much or eject it as far.

http://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.com/ruger_mini_prices.php

 

[contender]

One thing I've done to make my ammo more reliable for semi-auto rifles. I use a small base resizing die. Feeding issues are minimized that way.

 

[wixedmords]

One thing I've done to make my ammo more reliable for semi-auto rifles. I use a small base resizing die. Feeding issues are minimized that way.

Agreed, auto-loading rifles are usually the most work when it comes to reloading. If you have a tight chamber, you may find you need a small-base die. The next thing you may need to look at is getting that head spacing correct by a good shoulder set-back. The technique to that shoulder set-back is getting a good cam-over in the press combined with sometimes shaving the shellholder a few thousands. All you have to do is get that shoulder back a little bit usually. A good trim, which I undersize a bit, combined with the shoulder set-back and small base die can get you error free ammo. This is pretty involved work though.

Sometimes I think I would just be better off buying low end ammo as it is all pretty accurate for everyday use. A tight chamber can be a pain, but in reality it will be the chamber that will take the longest to shoot loose and could very likely be the most accurate.

I never hear of Mini's having tight chambers though.

 

[Tslepebull]

As far as loads go I have found that 25.0 gr of H-335 and a WW 55gr FMJ in once fired military brass perform very well. It is not a maximum load but I am able to hold a 1.5" 5-shot 50 M group with the stock peep sight. For a 55 gr JSP I bump the load up to 26.0 gr of H-335. Both loads are very reliable and pile the spent brass in a 1m circle about 3m behind me.

 

[Divernhunter]

They may not be "needed" but small base dies make sure the brass will work. I use 27.5grs of Win748 with 55gr bullets(hornadySP or SX) and it works well. Fun gun to shoot. I shoot clay pigions at 100yards with mine and a weaver 4X scope.

 

[gregs45auto]

+1 on H335. In military cases and a 55 gr bullet, I use 24.7 gr of H335. (Military cases give higher pressures). I use this load for varment hunting. Does a number on rockchucks. best, greg

 

[larrupin]

One thing I've done to make my ammo more reliable for semi-auto rifles. I use a small base resizing die. Feeding issues are minimized that way.

Agreed, auto-loading rifles are usually the most work when it comes to reloading. If you have a tight chamber, you may find you need a small-base die. The next thing you may need to look at is getting that head spacing correct by a good shoulder set-back. The technique to that shoulder set-back is getting a good cam-over in the press combined with sometimes shaving the shellholder a few thousands. All you have to do is get that shoulder back a little bit usually. A good trim, which I undersize a bit, combined with the shoulder set-back and small base die can get you error free ammo. This is pretty involved work though.

Sometimes I think I would just be better off buying low end ammo as it is all pretty accurate for everyday use. A tight chamber can be a pain, but in reality it will be the chamber that will take the longest to shoot loose and could very likely be the most accurate.

I never hear of Mini's having tight chambers though.

I know this is an old post but I just wanted to say THANK YOU to wixedmords for the suggestion to shave down the shell holder did the trick!!
I have used these same dies to load for a Contender with no problems but the Mini-14 I just got was pickier about the shoulder set back and wouldn't go fully into battery. Ground down the shell holder a little, worked like a champ.

Thanks again wixedmords!

larrupin

 

[wixedmords]

Your welcome larrupin. Glad it worked out for you.

I guess I have now heard of a mini with a tight chamber.