question about my press

jpb in me

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Maine woods
Bought a older pacific press and noticed that when I raise the shell up towards the die it reaches a peak height before the lever is all the way down. Once it reaches that peak it then drops fraction of an inch when the lever is fully lowered. Is this normal? Hope your all able to understand my explanation.
 
Yes, they all do that, at least all the presses with similar linkage. The process is like the ram being the connecting rod of a piston. The press lever is attached to what would be the crankshaft. When the crank rotates, the connecting rod goes up to top dead center and then starts back down again. This is what you're experiencing. Remember there is some pretty strong forces present when the press cams to top dead center so adjust your dies accordingly. I usually keep my dies about a 1/32" away from the shell holder at top dead center.
 
okay flash, thanks. My book tells me to screw the die down till it touches but to not cam it over. I'm confused about that.
 
jpb, the normal method of setting up non-carbide dies is to adjust the die down to contact the shell holder and stop the ram before it passes the cam-over (top dead center) point. For carbide dies they usually recommend setting the die so there is a slight gap when the ram reaches the top of it's travel. (I used to use a match book cover to set this gap.) Check the instructions that came with the dies as some manufacturers may have different recommendations.

I hope this is helpful.
Larry
 
I hate cam over in a press but most of the older ones did .

The ones I have I fashion a stop on the linkage To prevent this , it may be a welded stop or as simple as a lag bolt screwed into the bench to limit travel.
 
GP100man":2lnjv35v said:
I hate cam over in a press but most of the older ones did .

The ones I have I fashion a stop on the linkage To prevent this , it may be a welded stop or as simple as a lag bolt screwed into the bench to limit travel.

I put a metal stop on the bench leg to stop my Lee press from going over the top. I much prefer the feel of a solid stop. It seems to make all the adjustments easier too. :D

..Jimbo
 
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sounds like I want to put in some sort of stop. So there is no need for me to have it "cam over" correct?
 
It is personal preference. If you do put a stop be sure it is solid and won't change over time. You don't want your settings to change while operating the press. :D

...Jimbo
 
so having it actually cam over would prevent the settings from ever changing due to wear in the linkage or stop blocks. What is the actual purpose of camming(sp) over?
 
jpb in me":y46rf7l0 said:
so having it actually cam over would prevent the settings from ever changing due to wear in the linkage or stop blocks. What is the actual purpose of camming(sp) over?

Over time the height of the piston travel would change very slightly whether it cams over the top or whether it has a stop. But if the stop is not secure it could change quickly. :D

..Jimbo
 
Press - die relation ships are easy to adjust. I've used RCBS presses with the cam over feature for almost 35 years and they are no problem at all to adjust. Just follow the instructions RCBS sends with the press.
A couple years ago I bought a pair of used Bonanza Co-Ax presses and have been using them since. They do not cam over.
Adjustment is a bit simpler.

Neither type of press is immune to wear so periodic adjustment of dies is a must.

EDITED TO ADD: The dies that are the hardest to adjust and the most prone to getting out of adjustment are the Lee dies with the rubber O-ring lock ring. They're almost impossible to return to the same place twice in a row. For really consistent adjustments, toss the factory lock ring and install a split ring from somebody else.


Joe
 
I actually spent the extra money and bought the RCBS carbide 3 die set. It came with a large washer that tells you in the instructions not to use it with the sizing die. Can't understand its function or if and when I should use it.
 
jpb in me":1y07m5jg said:
I actually spent the extra money and bought the RCBS carbide 3 die set. It came with a large washer that tells you in the instructions not to use it with the sizing die. Can't understand its function or if and when I should use it.

Is this a die set for 38/357 or 44spec/44mag? If so the washer is for when you change from special cases to magnum cases, you use the washer with the case flaring and seating dies. Its thickness equals the difference in length of the cases.
Idea being once set up for 38 loading and you want to do 357,you place the washer on top of press then screw in the die to eliminate having to make major adjustments to the die.
However minor adjustments will probably have to be made.
That should have been mentioned in the die instructions.
 
dg101win aha, that makes perfect sense. I have the 44spec/mag set. That is not mentioned in the instructions or I somehow missed it. Thanks.
 
dg101win":3c091nxg said:
jpb in me":3c091nxg said:
I actually spent the extra money and bought the RCBS carbide 3 die set. It came with a large washer that tells you in the instructions not to use it with the sizing die. Can't understand its function or if and when I should use it.

Is this a die set for 38/357 or 44spec/44mag? If so the washer is for when you change from special cases to magnum cases, you use the washer with the case flaring and seating dies. Its thickness equals the difference in length of the cases.
Idea being once set up for 38 loading and you want to do 357,you place the washer on top of press then screw in the die to eliminate having to make major adjustments to the die.
However minor adjustments will probably have to be made.
That should have been mentioned in the die instructions.

Wow that makes perfect sense. I go back and forth between special and magnum cases all the time in both 357 and 44. Don't know why I never thought of a washer to change over the die length? :shock: :D

...Jimbo
 

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