I'm looking at replacing my well used measure and asking for objective opinions about LYMAN, RCBS, or Hornady. Quirks, undesirable kinks, other difficulties? TIA
Powder measure opinions
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gunman42782
Hunter
My RCBS powder measure is fantastic for ball powder, not so great for stick powder. My Lee actually does a much better job with stick powder, and sucks for ball powder. Can't comment on the others mentioned.
OP
The LEE's issues with ball powder are the impetus for the replacement (or more correctly 'companion') measure. Looks like my question has been answered as one of the offers I made on ebay was accepted and a like new RCBS is on the way. I've been using a 'you'll like it or I'll buy it back' Hornady but it's just not as consistent as I'd like(maybe good enough for 50+ grain loads but not for 30-40 grains).
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
Most of my stuff is Lee (I use their AutoDrum on my turret) but I have a manual RCBS that I use for small runs. I have an adapter that connects it to Lee powder-through charge dies too.
I've been using a Lyman 55 since 1980. Works extremely well with Ball, stick, and flake powders. Easy to adjust and set charges.
Simple to disassemble and clean.. Theres one for sale in the classifieds on Accurate Reloading now for $55
Simple to disassemble and clean.. Theres one for sale in the classifieds on Accurate Reloading now for $55
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GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
I will add the only issue I have had with the Uniflow is some powders make a crunchy noise and are harder to dispense but it doesn't seem to affect the weight of the drop.
OP
That sounds similar to what I noticed with the Hornady. Seems like it was 'grinding' powder granules? Maybe due to excessive wear or???
arky65
Bearcat
I use the Lee Perfect Powder measure for stick powder (30 years and still going) and a Lyman Brass smith for ball and flake powders. If I had to use just one, it would be the Lyman Brass Smith.
The Lyman has been the most consistent of any that I have owned in 40 years of hand loading.
The Uniflow as mentioned above is crunchy with stick powders and inconsistent.
ymmv
jme
The Lyman has been the most consistent of any that I have owned in 40 years of hand loading.
The Uniflow as mentioned above is crunchy with stick powders and inconsistent.
ymmv
jme
contender
Ruger Guru
I have a pair of RCBS Uniflow's here. I have one with the large barrel, and one with the small barrel. Yes,, this design occasionally does make a "crunching" sound as it gets a little piece of stick powder caught, and you actually "cut the grain" of powder as you operate it. Otherwise,, a consistent method of operation give real good results.
If more serious precision is desired,, an electronic measure,,with a digital scale,, is quite nice. Much more expensive than the manual types. But very consistent to .01 of a grain depending upon the type of powder. I use a Lyman DPS III for that.
If more serious precision is desired,, an electronic measure,,with a digital scale,, is quite nice. Much more expensive than the manual types. But very consistent to .01 of a grain depending upon the type of powder. I use a Lyman DPS III for that.
I used a Uniflow for a long time (yep it crunched lol) and a few years back got a really good deal on a charge master. I like it, and I know at some point I will get over thinking that I have to verify it every so many loads.
I love my Harrell’s. They come in different sizes depending on how much you want to dump.
I’ve had Uniflows since the early 80’s. To cut down on the shearing of stick powders I made a baffle like Redding had in theirs. A few years later RCBS started making them. It makes a world of difference.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
I couldn't stand to pay $11 for a folded piece of sheet metal. Now that it's easier to afford, JB probably made the price go to $23.
Nope. $19.99 on sale for $12.49 on Amazon but only 2 remain (which means none).
Nope. $19.99 on sale for $12.49 on Amazon but only 2 remain (which means none).
OP
There are 3-D printed baffles now. Cost about $10. I'll postpone that add on since I think most of the powder I'm planning to use is ball (which is the original reason I felt the need for a different measure).
In a
turn of events when I tried to return the borrowed Hornady measure, the owner said 'Keep it I don't have a use for it anymore'.
Next question: Is there a way to tighten up the fit of the rotor on the Hornady?
In a
turn of events when I tried to return the borrowed Hornady measure, the owner said 'Keep it I don't have a use for it anymore'. Next question: Is there a way to tighten up the fit of the rotor on the Hornady?
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
Which Hornady measure is it?
To be honest, I liked my homemade one out of card stock better but dummy me threw it out when I bought the factory version.
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I have/use two: a Lyman 55 that is probably over 50 years old, and a Redding #25. Both are excellent. I like the Lyman with small powder charges, the smaller slides on top of the main drum give very good consistency with small charges.
NikA
Hunter
I made mine out of a beer can. Helps to have a pattern (think I had an example from a different manufacturer and traced it), but I'd bet it wouldn't be too hard to draw an ellipse and go from there.
No, your measure was "cutting" powder granules to give you the precise powder charge that the measure was set at.
Its hard to go wrong with an RCBS Uniflow powder measure. The Hornady Lock N Load measure with its quick change powder metering insert and its ability to adapt over to automatic throw is a very good measure as well. So is the Dillon measure that will operate automatically but it has not quick change metering inserts.
Notice the button on the Hornady on the left side of the drum, this is to release the quick change metering insert. No more constantly readjusting your measure for different settings or calibers. You just buy more metering inserts.
Notice the button on the Hornady on the left side of the drum, this is to release the quick change metering insert. No more constantly readjusting your measure for different settings or calibers. You just buy more metering inserts.
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Crockett12
Blackhawk lover
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I have 3 different powder measures plus a Dillon 650 press. I dropped a number of charges (don't remember which ball powder but probably H-110) from my RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure, Redding Model 3 and Redding BR30 and the powder bar on the Dillon 650! I was surprised to find the Dillon to be far more accurate to an uncanny degree with the RCBS the least accurate!
From least to best:
RCBS (least)
Redding Model 3
Redding BR30
Dillon small powder bar (best)
From least to best:
RCBS (least)
Redding Model 3
Redding BR30
Dillon small powder bar (best)
DBnoise
Single-Sixer
I have 3 Reddings and a Hornady. The Redding I first bought was a BR30 way back and was my mainstay powder measure. It's sweet spot was 30 grains for 223 base cartridges. I would double throw for 308 and 30-06 cases with stick powders. Go once through all 50 in my load block then go back through again. That gave me very consistant results with stick powders.Them I have niw a PR 50 for 308 and 30-06 and a Compitition 10x for pistols. For large capacity I use a Hornady but I made my own plunger, concave instead of using the convex factory one. My Redding measures will thow ball powders exact.
I can weigh 5 throws out of 50 rds, which I do to double check and they are the same. Small grain stick pretty dang close. I load lots of precise ammo and use 50 rd blocks. It is rhythm and consistent throws. It is as much as the way you use the measure as it is the measures accuracy and baffle placement. This is my set up.
I have used RCBS and they worked very well it is I just like the Reddings for my consistency.
I can weigh 5 throws out of 50 rds, which I do to double check and they are the same. Small grain stick pretty dang close. I load lots of precise ammo and use 50 rd blocks. It is rhythm and consistent throws. It is as much as the way you use the measure as it is the measures accuracy and baffle placement. This is my set up.
I have used RCBS and they worked very well it is I just like the Reddings for my consistency.
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I noticed you have your baffles sitting higher than others. Wondering how much of a difference that makes?
DBnoise
Single-Sixer
I don't know but for me and the way I throw the charge it works for me. When I had my ammunition FFL that BR30 got a work out. I tend to keep the hopper full also after 50 rounds. For some stick powders I might put a drop tube extension or attach a funnel next the drop tube to swirl the powder in the case as it is dropped.
How I do my throws I used to have a 1x4 pine board mounting my measure to it. I thought I was going to fancy up my bench so I put a 1x8 oak piece on it. Never had a problem with throwing a 42.5 grain charge of R19 in my 220 Swift. All of a sudden it wouldn't flow in the case. The only difference i could figure was the slight vibration that the pune allowed vs the solid oak. That is when I put the funnel under it and all was well. Used that same set up for a 17 Rem and IMR4320. Funny how things work sometimes.
How I do my throws I used to have a 1x4 pine board mounting my measure to it. I thought I was going to fancy up my bench so I put a 1x8 oak piece on it. Never had a problem with throwing a 42.5 grain charge of R19 in my 220 Swift. All of a sudden it wouldn't flow in the case. The only difference i could figure was the slight vibration that the pune allowed vs the solid oak. That is when I put the funnel under it and all was well. Used that same set up for a 17 Rem and IMR4320. Funny how things work sometimes.
Most of my RCBS measrues were made back in the 60's when Fred Huntington owned the company and they are very accurate. I must say that people tend to worry about things that often do not amount to a hill of beans. Powder is not 100 percent uniform and even if you hand weigh out 10 charges and then chronograph them, none of them will usually be duplicates in velocity.
I can see a benchrest shooters wanting to eliminate all the variables, I have done it myself but the average guy shoots for fun or shoots for meat and minute of deer is all one really needs.
I remember when I first started handloading in the 60's and I weighed out by hand powder charges and then also used charges thrown by powder measures of various brands. There was no difference in accuracy that I could see with a sporter rifle that amounted to much of anything. Even hand weighed charges varied as much as charges thrown by powder measures when I chronographed loads. Course stick powder was the worst offender and ball powder the more forgiving but not by much. And course stick powder often gave as good as accuracy as ball powder which metered more uniformly.
Wow. I am not saying you are wrong at all. But I think I am going to do what you did and find out the hard way. It just seems as if one weighs each charge things would be more consistent with velocities than just using a powder thrower.
OP
Throwing two charges to reach the load seems counterproductive. When throwing larger charges of stick powder, I found consistency increased when I tapped the side of the measure cavity X times with my finger to settle the charge. This DOES work but must be relatively consistent for each throw of the measure.
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