Painting The Front Sight

jack

Single-Sixer
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Apr 13, 2015
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SW MO
I painted the front sight of both of my sp-101's with fluorescent orange nail polish and the rear sight area (about 1/2" in the groove area) with black polish. I notice some people apply a coat of white beneath the orange. Has anyone done it both ways? Can you tell a difference? Just wondering if it is worthwhile to remove/redo my sight painting? Comments please. ..... jack
 
I have a set with white, red, and green colors. It is recommended to use the white base first. There is a slight difference in brightness with and without the white. I wouldn't worry about it since you have already colored yours unless you aren't happy with the results.
 
I did my 2.5" & 4" speed sixes with orange (didn't notice the slight glitter till later) did one with a white base and didn't notice a difference besides I had to do 2 coats on the just orange.
 
Forgot to mention ... I put on two coats of orange. I'm happy with what I see .... just wondering?
 
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The white gives you a better base to have a brighter top coat color. I use model paint, I thought the nail polish would be too hard and flake off. Easy enough to re do when needed, but I haven't needed to re do, in over a year of use.
 
What surface was painted...just the plastic or was part of the painted ramp metal? Have you noticed a big difference on being able to acquire the front sight faster?

I'm thinking about doing the same on my Ruger SRH Toklat. My eyes can't pick out the little red plastic on the front ramp sight.

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I use a "Professional Gun Sight Kit" from Bright Sights that I think I found through Amazon. Has a half dozen colors, doesn't say anything about a white undercoat (doesn't include white among the color options). I've used it on several front sights, a few rear. My eyes don't pick up a black front sight in the woods anymore worth a flip, the fluoro orange is much better.
 
I find that a plain, flat, white finish works better for me than any color combination I've tried. The best yet is plain white type writer fluid because of its flat finish. All the paint combinations that I tried had a shiny surface that reflected light and would not give me the precision that a flat coating provided. For hunting, in our woods here in KY, it's the easiest to pick up against deer hair. Too, when you need to go back to a plain flat black sight for target work, it's easy to chip it off with a finger nail, but is still hardy enough for holster use. HTH's Rod
 
I've used fingernail polish for many years - and have had "paint jobs" last for many years of regular carry.

I always lay under a white base coat. The overlaying color ends up much brighter, and doesn't require nearly as many coats.

Here is one of the more recent jobs I did for my mother-in-law's EDC. Rather ugly since I was in a rush, but it pops to the eye.

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wiiawiwb said:
What surface was painted...just the plastic or was part of the painted ramp metal? Have you noticed a big difference on being able to acquire the front sight faster?

My ramps are metal, I applied the paint with a tooth pick, wiped the sides of the sight while it was still wet, then positioned/balance the gun upside down with the sight not touching anything to dry. This way no paint could drip down the sides, I was able to get a nice crisp edge this way. I did notice a big difference picking up the sight.

The other thing I have noticed is that if front sight is too tall, I only paint up to were the sight should end. My eyes line up on the paint rather than the top of the sight. Then if you are sure about the height go ahead and file it if you want too.
 
I have used nail polish for years and always put a white base coat down. For 2 coats, the white definitely makes for a brighter top coat.

I dislike the gloss that the nail polish leaves behind so I normally put a 3rd coat on then lightly sand it with 1000 grit sandpaper to remove the sheen. You end up with a bright orange, flat finish front ramp.
 
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