P94DC Blocker lever thingy, help

roylt

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Hi Guys,
I have a issue with my P94DC. In single action you can pull the trigger all the way to the frame and it will not drop all the time. (Dry fire test only.)

Seems to be fine in double action.

Took it apart and it seems the blocker lever is up a bit in front how does this "seat" what do you think I should look for?

I am just learning and don't know how this really works. The sear is right in the same area.

The joy of used guns.

Thanks,
 
roylt, can you possibly take a pic of the specific area you're talking about? I'm not sure what you mean by "blocker lever". Could be the trigger bar is slightly out of spec. I've swapped trigger bars between P94DC models and had different trigger pulls as a result. That's my first guess.
 
I got the term from the parts list in the manual. not realy sure what it does or anything.

I'll try to post a pic later.
 
Roy is it possible that you got the spring on backwards??
I have the picture of my old P89 that I'll post,See Pic!!
The P94DC may be different too?? IIRC some only have one pin instead of two as the P89 has..
It may not even go on backwards but that possibility came to mind as I was thinking about it??
GOOD LUCK!

20searblockinglever.jpg
 
I haven't taken this gun apart yet past feild strip. I think the 89 and the 94 are the same with 2 pins. one holds the blocker part that is closer to the hammer and the front pin holds the sear.

I really am green on this stuff. The only way I know what these are called is from the manual. HAHA

The blocker is up just enough to cause trouble remounting the slide. The slide hits that little tip shown in your pic.(upper left "ear" just above the sear)

I cheated on the 85 project in the sence that all the internal parts were good. I didn't have to take the blocker and sear out so I haven't tried it yet.

Hey Gary,
Any input on the front sight removal? I ordered a couple new roll pins from Ruger and plan to change it. Where do you find pin punches small enough?

Thanks for the help and keep it coming please.
 
Hmmm. Your blocker lever should be totally level when re-assembling. Is your ejector fully flipped into the magwell during dis-assembly and re-assembly as it should be? P94 and P89 are both 2-pin arrangements. Looks like they use the same parts as well. The blocker lever has a "nub" at the bottom which is engaged by the trigger bar. It could be that your trigger isn't fully seated (unlikely) or that your trigger bar or blocker lever is out of spec (maybe). The blocker lever and sear are inter-related, so it could be that a spring is simply installed wrong. If you're mechanically inclined you could detail strip it and re-assemble with an eye out for correct installations. There's no better way to learn about your gun than to fully disassemble. Otherwise I'd ship it back to Ruger in Prescott AZ. Let us know how it goes.
 
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The plan right now is to take the ideas posted here and use a known good gun as a guide to compare. I just hate to start something and get in over my head. Baby steps for me as I am learning.

Pretty fun though. My wife thinks I'm crazy for spending so much money on this but I figure I can always sell it again and get my money back as long as I get a deal up front.

Have some extra P944DC parts to compare to and possibly change.

Why does the manual say these should be factory fit? Is it because they all work together and have to function as a "team"?

Thanks guys,
 
Roy the 1/16" roll pin punch I have came in a small set from I think Lyman, These are used on AR-15 Builds & are quite common.
Sears has them & might be your best bet finding one, have a look at this link
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=lyman roll pin punch&seaxlym=1
Any Gun shop that sells AR-15 goodies & tools should have one..
I bought mine @ Keisler's Police Supply Years ago..
Good Luck in the search for the sear/blocking lever troubles..
Could it be the ejector is touching the blocking lever slightly??
Hard to say without seeing it & holding it in my hands..
 
Well come on over! I got Mt Dew in the fridge. HAHA

I'll try to post pics soon. Maybe will get to fiddle with it a little tonight? Or over the weekend?

My son got clipped again so I have to work on his head lights some more. Dang it!
 
My daughter is sick so I had to hold her and read books last night.
So only had a few minutes before bed.
Here are some pics of what it looks like.

Top down view


Side view


Top down from side


Front view with bloker lifted to show sear


GOOD P89DC, Front view with bloker lifted to show sear


Son's car again. ugh!
 
Sorry to hear about your little sick one, that's never fun. I see what you mean about the blocker. I would totally detail strip it and re-assemble without the trigger bar. If it then sits flat it could possibly be traced to the trigger bar or trigger.
 
I plan on getting a pin punch tonight depending on whatever life stuff gets in the way.

I've never do it but I think I can strip this upper part Berretapistols has a good rebuild on a 89 and this should be the same.

I wish I had a better understanding on how all this works together. If I pull it all apart and put it back and nothing changes I really won't understand what I missed.

Thanks for all the input and keep it coming if anyone else has something to add please do.

Thanks,
 
So I took it apart and filed the top of the sear were the blocker lever should lay. Not as much as the P89 pic above but enough so the blocker is down where it should be.

Seemed to help with assembly as the slide didn't hit the blocker lever.
Also seemed to help the single action trigger but I did get it to hang.

I don't understand the interaction of the sear, blocker, trigger bar, and hammer.

I looked at another set of parts from the kit I bought and they are filed a little differently but seem they would work the same. I may try to swap all the parts and see what happens.

Can anyone tell me how these parts work together. I have an engineering type brain and if I can understand it I think I could fix it easily.

I need to understand what chain of events take place as you pull the trigger.

What hits what to make the hammer release?

Also why is it only in single action not double?

Came apart easy so I can take it apart again and take more pics but would help you guys help me? Let me know and I'll post it.

Thanks,
 
I cringed when I read that you took a file to the sear especially since you wrote: "I don't understand the interaction of the sear, blocker, trigger bar, and hammer. " These parts should go together without the need to file anything.

Then you wrote: "I looked at another set of parts from the kit I bought and they are filed a little differently but seem they would work the same. I may try to swap all the parts and see what happens." You can give that a shot, but at this point I would send it to Ruger who will fix the problem with fresh unfiled parts or can diagnose any deeper problems. No offense, I'm just thinking of your and others' safety. Keep us posted on any progress or if you have any other questions.
 
I just filed the part of the sear where the blocker lever rests. Look at the last 2 pics on the left. The P89 (known good unit) has a big notch ground in the sear for the blocker to rest in. The P94 does not. Since the blocker lever was riding high on the un-notched sear it made since to file that to make the blocker lever lower so the slide could go on. I didn't mess with any of the engagement sides of the sear or blocker or hammer.

I think it may be the trigger bar but I really wish I understood how these work together better. I plan on going to the library and trying to find some gunsmithing books to get a better understanding. I doubt I will "service" the sear or blocker engagement points because I don't have the proper tools for that but maybe I can gain a better understanding and see what is wrong.

Thanks for reading and adding comments.
 
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