LuckenbachTexas said:
I'm considering one of these for a up to 200 yard everything rifle. I've heard newer models ain't bad.
I'm a pretty darn good shot, What can I reasonably expect for accuracy?
The problem that I have with the Mini-30 is two-fold;
The price ya gotta pay for good 7.62X39 ammo is about 2X the price of good 5.56/.223 (Mini-14) ammo.
The .30-cal 20rd mag is a bit too long for my uses, Ruger don't make a 10rd, and most aftermarket mags are junk.
Other than that, they are OK guns.....not great, but certainly a step above "ain't bad".
If nothing else they are amazingly reliable, even with minimal care under harsh conditions. Leastways, they are if ya stay away from junky mags and cheap Russian ammo (some of which the Mini won't even ignite on a consistant basis).
Out of the box accuracy will depend on how lucky you get with Ruger's spotty QC and what ammo you use.
I've owned two in the past, and worked with "a few" others. I could get the worst of the bunch to hit a milk jug at 100 yds most of the time while using South African mil-surp (brass) ammo. On the other hand, the best one would consistantly put 3 shots inside a 3" circle at 200 yds....but.....that was after it had been tuned, bedded, and when using match-prepped handloads.
Stuff to look out for before plunking down your money:
A canted front sight. This is easier to see when looking from the muzzel end.
A canted gas block. This is perty-easy to see with the rifle upside down.
Try to push the rear sight from side to side by pressing hard on it's rear with your thumb. Most of them will move about if you push hard enough. If it does, it'll give you some idea of how your POI will change as the thing vibrates around from recoil.....which it's going to do sooner or later due to Ruger's mickey-mouse sight mount.
Pull the trigger group and check for fore and aft movement and/or general slop where the barreled action sits down into the reciever. This takes about 30 seconds and might save ya a lot of grief....because a rifle with sloppy bedding aint going to group at distance. Also take note of how much force is required to re-latch the trigger group. It should take a fair amount, but no so much that the vein in your neck pops out.
Move the safety to the on position, rack the slide to cock the hammer, gently return the slide to battery, and then slowly work it back and forth just far enough to insure that the bolt is being lifted/retracted/returned smoothly without binding or "catching".
You can check all that in less than two minutes, and most of it is checking for QC issues.
The rear sight thing is just a bad design, pure 'n simple. Aint much to do there but fix it or replace it with something more stable.
Hope this helped somewhat.
DGW