On SA shooting left.....

[tek4260]

While I was shooting and tinkering yesterday, I decided to install a few parts on my OM Super. A #26 mainspring and a lighter trigger spring. I fired one round(left), then replaced the parts. I reloaded and fired 2 more without touching the sights or changing my grip. I had been firing my NM's which had much better(lighter) triggers, so the first shot to the left came as no surprise.

So, if your revolver is shooting to the left, try a lighter trigger spring, firm grip, pressing the trigger with tip of finger not pulling with first joint, and keep your offhand finger off the front of the trigger guard!

FWIW, the rear sight is exactly centered on this revolver. A few years ago, when I got it, I had it cranked to the right to overcome shooting to the left. Over time I have adjusted my SA's back to center bit by bit as my technique improved(or at least changed).

 

[tek4260]

Also, the POI change will be much greater on a New Model, since their triggers are heavier and have more creep than an Old Model.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

(1) Hold
(2) Sight Picture
(3) Trigger Pull

I'm still working on the basics. :D :D

...Jimbo

 

[goriath]

I like this one for the shooting enthusiast

or this one for the average joe:

 

[Cracker-American]

What is breaking wrist up????

What is pushing anticipating recoil??

I was always taught that you could put whatever part of the trigger finger you wanted on the trigger as long as you were consistent. Are we back to only supposed to use the tip/pad of the finger on the trigger now?

I am currently plagued with rounds hitting between 9 and twelve o clock high.

 

[Luckyducker]

I have found when shooting handguns I get better accuracy if I use the pad of my finger on the trigger but I still use the first joint when shooting rifles. I tried shooting handgun both ways to see if the POI moved when using the joint and sure enough the group went left and the group opened up some. I think when using the first joint I tend to pull the muzzle left when moving the trigger rearward, as I am right handed.

 

[flatgate]

Also, the POI change will be much greater on a New Model, since their have more creep than an Old Model.

Hah! Says you! :D

No creep on ANY of my shooter's triggers....... :D

flatgate

 

[xtratoy]

I am currently plagued with rounds hitting between 9 and twelve o clock high.

According to the second chart above that means it is not your fault ! :lol:

 

[tek4260]

Also, the POI change will be much greater on a New Model, since their have more creep than an Old Model.

Hah! Says you! :D

No creep on ANY of my shooter's triggers....... :D

flatgate

Well, they come with more creep "built in"!! Which I rectify with a relief cut on the trigger

 

[Rclark]

Are we back to only supposed to use the tip/pad of the finger on the trigger now?

Well, here is Tood Jarritt on pistol shooting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysa50-plo48

Applies to revolvers as well. I've found I shoot much better now that I use the pad of finger. Took me awhile to get used to it, but I believe it works. The logic for doing so makes sense to me too.

 

[mastermonster]

I shoot IDPA comps and use the 1st pad after taking the advice from another IDPA shooter. My hits and speed improved noticably. I use the same trigger technique with revolvers, rifles and shotguns too. I found that in the high speed defensive scenarios of IDPA that this type trigger pull keeps my hits from straying laterally as much when the shots (and trigger pulls) are fast and furious with the pressure of the timer. I shoot a 9mm Springfield XD at comps at the present. I suppose there is no one trigger pull technique that is perfect for all shooting situations, but I think this fits a wide range of shooting applications. Especially when speed and rapid shots are needed along with effective accuracy.

P.S. Before switching from using the 1st finger joint to the pad, I had a tendency to drift shots to the right (I'm left handed) as I tried to increase my speed.

 

[357phase]

When I put a square back trigger guard grip frame on my 4 5'8" super,I did this to it and the trigger pull seems next to nothing.1-2 lb is what I was thinking.Enough I might possibly fire early(not ready yet).Did this a year ago so need to get out and shoot it.It's very,very light pull. http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

 

[tek4260]

The weight of pull is determined by the rate of spring. When you bend the factory spring enough to lighten the felt pull, it isn't enough pressure to reliably reset the trigger. To lighten pull you need to change the spring to a smaller diameter wire.

 

[357phase]

Didn't know that.I could have messed up as I haven't actually fired it yet.Dry firing worked fine and I figured the bend on the front of the spring(less contact) is what made so much difference.I plan on shooting it this week so guess I'll find out.I do know the pull is awfully light.Hopefully I just lucked up.Rather be lucky than good. :lol:

 

[tek4260]

To clarify, bending the spring removes the preload, which lightens pull to a point. But, you run out of spring before you get a light trigger. If you have a 1lb trigger with a bent factory spring, you are at the point that the spring might not reset the trigger.

Its like Bubba adjusting the trigger on his M700 without replacing the sear spring. When he gets it light, the spring is just "floating" between the sear and the screw, and a brisk cycle of the action will trip it.

To get a light trigger, you need a spring. This one is lighter wire, and has a different angle. All together a better solution.

I am sure someone will chime in and explain it better than I can. It took a local gunsmith sitting there tearing a trigger group apart and talking to me to finally have the light bulb come on.

 

[357phase]

I saw that picture before reading your post and thought,what the he** did he do to that spring??Now after reading,where'd you find that trigger spring?I did buy a couple of extras for mine just in case but if yours works,would rather have that.

 

[tek4260]

It is a Bullseye spring, or sometimes they are sold as Trapper springs. I am looking for some online and am having no luck. Natchez lists them, but none are in stock. There was a CAS specific gunsmith that listed them as well.

I found a few in my dealers parts bins as complete kits. I have also bought them here, had them come in revolvers I purchased, and even had them come in parts/grip frames I have bought here.