Old Model SA "Safety Recall" modifications

[resident]

Has anyone had their Old Model SA modified by Ruger for the transfer bar? I am considering having my Super Bearcat done by them, and want to know if they merely insert new parts ....or is there actual machining-operations that the gun undergoes for the modification. Anyone know the details of this mod?

 

[Robb Barnes]

On the blackhawks it is simply old parts out, new parts in. The result is a "safer", clunkier action even though safety is between the shooters ears IMHO.

 

[dougader]

If I had an OM Ruger I wouldn't do the conversion. It lowers the value and makes the trigger "rougher," for lack of a better word.

All you have to remember is to always load 5 instead of 6 rounds... and make sure the hammer is resting on the empty chamber. No problem.

 

[Robb Barnes]

See that is the great thing about this forum. You have rough around the edges guys like me mitigated by nicer guys like Doug! :lol:

 

[TiteGroups]

Please don't convert it, if you want a safer gun sell it and buy a new model.

 

[dougader]

Don't let Robb fool you. He's as nice a guy as you'll find.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

No frame modifications . . . just a parts swap.

The conversion won't hurt the value, as you get your original parts back for future re-conversion if desired.

 

[flatgate]

The transfer bar mechanism requires a bit more trigger movement so the transfer bar can be raised high enough to insure reliable ignition.

flatgate

 

[resident]

Please don't convert it, if you want a safer gun sell it and buy a new model.

I won't sell it. I don't even shoot it. It was an anniversary gift to me from a former, and I'm saving it for our daughter's inheritance (if she ever get's the hell out of NYC) and for posterity. (I'd hate not to have parts that may be needed should existing parts fail. I understand new old-style hammers are not available....don't know if new hammers will operate with old triggers, etc..)

I just wanted to get the recommendations of others. I guess Ruger must fit the parts, so there's no option for them to simply fit them, then remove them and return the gun as original.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

They fit the new parts to each other, and return the gun so equipped, along with the original parts in a little baggie.

The old parts can still all be re-installed if you wish.

For what it's worth, there have been a few reports of the old parts not being returned. Some folks recommend you remove the old parts before you send the gun to Ruger for the "conversion".

 

[J Miller]

Has anyone had their Old Model SA modified by Ruger for the transfer bar? I am considering having my Super Bearcat done by them, and want to know if they merely insert new parts ....or is there actual machining-operations that the gun undergoes for the modification. Anyone know the details of this mod?

TiteGroups wrote:
Please don't convert it, if you want a safer gun sell it and buy a new model.


I won't sell it. I don't even shoot it. It was an anniversary gift to me from a former, and I'm saving it for our daughter's inheritance (if she ever get's the hell out of NYC) and for posterity. (I'd hate not to have parts that may be needed should existing parts fail. I understand new old-style hammers are not available....don't know if new hammers will operate with old triggers, etc..)

I just wanted to get the recommendations of others. I guess Ruger must fit the parts, so there's no option for them to simply fit them, then remove them and return the gun as original.

resident,

I have one Ruger OM that was converted. When I bought it the original action had been reinstalled and I've never even considered putting the conversion action back in.
(The gun was timed so badly the cylinder would not lock up unless the hammer was drawn to full cock very fast and then almost not. The pawl in it was from the conversion action. I had to fit a new pawl to make it time up properly.)
I've handled several converted OMs and all of them had horridly creepy, rough, and gritty actions.
I can't stand that.
I was taught on the original Colt design of single action revolvers. Ruger's Old Models function the same. I see absolutely no safety improvement in that transfer bar conversion at all.

Go ahead and shoot it, it won't hurt it a bit. With a bit of common sense care Rugers will out last their owners.

Ruger does not "fit" the conversion actions other than to fit them into the frame and reassemble it. They are just parts in trays that are picked out and assembled.
There is no modification to the original gun and it can be returned to original any time you want. But why bother?

Teach your daughter the safe and proper way to use an old style single action and she'll be set for life. Convert it and have her learn that and if she ever gets hold of an unconverted Old Model, she'll be in danger of a AD.
(It's like learning to drive in an automatic then trying to drive a stick shift. Not to easy. But learn on a stick and your set for most anything.)

Joe

 

[varminter22]

No frame modifications . . . just a parts swap.

The conversion won't hurt the value, as you get your original parts back for future re-conversion if desired.

I have heard - tell me if its true - that Ruger makes a mark on the frame indicaing they have converted the revolver AND that some purists DO consider that to lessen the value of a converted OM.

Actually, I had a converted OM (with original parts in a bag) that appeared to have a mark indicating it had been converted. I had planned to have it put back in original "unconverted" form and transfomred into a .44 Spec by a nationally known 'smith famous for this converson. As I recall, he wouidn't do it because of that mark. I sold that revolver.

 

[J Miller]

varminter22,

You are correct. Ruger stamps an "R" under the trigger guard part of the grip frame on the cylinder frame. You cannot see it when the gun is assembled.

Many gunsmiths are infected with a very contagious disease called paranoia. I won't let one in that condition work on any of my guns.

Joe

 

[Ale-8(1)]

I imagine there are purists who would devalue a gun stamped with the "conversion mark".

However, I'll bet that most of the Rugerphiles will merely insist on having both sets of parts, regardless of which set is installed, when valuing a gun as "original". After all, the conversion is a "factory original" bit of service work.

Full disclosure: I'm no serious collector, so I may be all wrong . . . JMHO.

 

[RADAR]

I can't believe you have a Bearcat and don't shoot it. Mine goes to the range every time-very fun little piece once you get the feel of it.
I wouldn't have it converted if I were you.

 

[SgtSam]

Sorry Guys, but when I start hearing about "purists" and their petty opinions about what is right and wrong, valued or devalued, I really want to puke. It's that same crap with guitars, basses, cars, etc. Personally I say to hell with them all. I buy something for myself. If I don't quite like it the way it is, I'll modify it until I do like it, or I'll sell it. I don't collect, I use and enjoy the things I own.

Pardon me if I've stepped on your toes, but that's life. There's no guarantee that you won't be offended by someone else's opinion. And there's no "right" for you not to be.

I made the mistake some years ago, around 1983 I believe, of having my Single Six brought "up to date" with the Ruger mod. The action was pure garbage compared to the way it had been. And my gun was pure stock at the time I had it done. So, after fighting with it, not shooting it very much, and actively disliking it, I had it put "out of date", back to the original way it was. Nice. Then I had my gunsmith do a little work on the action. REAL NICE! I still have the parts to remind me of my error. I now know that I can remove the grip frame and look a little mark on my gun to remind me of my error.

As so many have stated here, the safety problem is not the gun, PERIOD! It's the idiot holding it. And if you feel that an "old style" single action is dangerous, simply don't own it. Leave them to the rest of us who do know how to handle them, and get yourself something else.

I was always taught, load one, skip one, load four, lower the hammer. Do that and you'll always end up on an empty chamber. If you're sitting at a bench where you can keep the muzzle pointed down-range all the time, and you're planning on shooting as soon as it's loaded, load 6 and have a ball. Otherwise, load 5 and keep it safe.

Aw Hell, I'm on my soap-box and I appologize to all of you.

SgtSam
Take Care, God Bless, and WATCH Your Back!

 

[resident]

SgtSam,... you and the other commenters have helped me solve this question quite comfortably. THANK YOU, ALL!

I rarely shoot the BearCat, and when I do, I load it / shoot it right away. I do not carry any .22 for selfdefense :roll: ....nor do I carry the BearCat for hunting,.... (if I'm carrying a .22 handgun in the field, it's usually my Ruger Mk-III autopistol, my Ruger Super-Single Six, or most-likely of all, my S&W J-frame (forgot which model that is, actually.)

So, not liking sorry-fitted internal parts, and not needing to carry while loaded, and knowlegeable about the empty-chamber should I change my habits.....
..... I THANK YOU ALL!

One less opportunity for UPS to lose a treasured firearm or have it damaged or stolen while out of my possession, and saved the freight as well!

This now has the appearance of a no-brainer. :lol: