Old Model .357 - value?

[Riconurse]

Hello all!

New to the forum! Enquiring about the value of an old .357 Blackhawk. A little background first. I'm a shooter, not a collector. About 23 years ago I picked up this gun in a pawn shop for $200. All I knew about it at the time was that it was made by Ruger, and was a single action .357. I already had a Single Six (my very first gun) and I thought of it as essentially the same gun, just chambered in .357. About a year ago I took it to a gun show to get new grips for it (it had cheap immitation stag horns). The guy selling the grips said he didn't have any that would fit it, but would be happy to take it off my hands for $500. When I declined he said, "you don't even know what you've got, do you?". Well I've been researching it for the last year, and here's what I've got. It's a .357 Ruger Blackhawk with a 4 5/8 inch barrel and a 4 digit serial number. There is some wear to the bluing, but no pitting. The barrel is in excellent condition. I'm a fanatic about cleaning and oiling my guns after every firing. It has been converted, but I have the original parts still in the bag the shipped from Ruger in. My questions are; Should I have it converted back? I'd never sell it, but what is it worth? Should I still shoot it, or put it up for safe keeping (it is far and away my favorite at the range)? Any help would be appreciated. I'll try and post pictures later.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!
Well, you can easily have a very desirable gun. By your description, you should have a nice OM Flattop. Posting the serial number will help us identify which "type" of Flattop it is. There are variations within the basic model. Pictures would help a LOT. Most of us prefer for those guns to have the original parts in it. We have no problem in "Load one, skip one, load four, full cock & lower the hammer on an empty chamber."
The value will be determined by condition, the type, the condition, any extras, the condition,,,! It'll need a set of original grips to add to it's value. They should be a set of Butaphane (hard rubber, or plastic to some) XR-3 grips.
If you are concerned about posting the serial number, post part of it such as 123X.

 

[Riconurse]

The serial number is 36XX. Haven't been able to find any original grips, the ones I have on it now are reproductions. I have pictures of it, but I'm not sure how to post them. I'll have a look at the FAQ and see what I can find out.

 

[Riconurse]

Okay, I think I've got it figured out. Let's see if I can post those pictures:

Not the best pictures (I took them with my phone) but they should give you some idea of the wear and general condition of the gun. Let me know what you think.

 

[rugerguy]

Nice pictures for a phone camera, and yes, that is the early ,first issue of the old model Blackhack,came out in 1955,what we all call the 'flat top' ( the top strap is "flat", all the way front of the frame to back) and for what you paid for it, a real DEAL, you done good..... as for the grips, what makes you say they are "reproduction"??? that is what they are supposed to look like, hard rubber (plastic) ,not bad from what we can tell of the picture......the original; grips, that look just like those pictured can run you in the $75 to $100 range,,,,,,,,,,
and yes, I bet that guy would have loved to bought your gun for $500, I know I would,,,grips or no grips
value is in the $700-800 range,more with the "correct"??? grips and MORE if you had the box and papers..............again, nice gun

 

[Riconurse]

Truly wish I had the box and papers on the gun, but the pawnbroker didn't have 'em. Amazed he had the original parts from before the conversion. Finally found the grips at a gun show. Paid $50 for them and was glad to get them at that price after pricing custom made ones on-line. I say they're "reproduction" because that's what the guy who sold 'em to me called 'em. They're of modern make (not by Ruger as fas as I know) and are lighter and have more of a "plastic" feel to them than I imagine the hard rubber originals did. The real question is, should I "unconvert" it? Should I keep shooting it? I've been happily putting lead down-range with it for over 20 years, not knowing what it was. Now that I know, I'm a little nervous. Hate to put it up, it's a great shooter!

 

[RugerHound]

Yep, that's a keeper! A Type 1 flattop isn't anything to sneeze at! It's already been shot, has a signficant amount of cylinder wear from the latch pin. (Put the old action back in it to slow down the cylinder ring wear) You can shoot that thing for the rest of your life and it will STILL be worth 4x what you paid for it! If you find a collector with a consecutive SN you'll apt to do a little better!

Hang on to it and enjoy it! WBR had the nutty idea that these things were for shootin'!

 

[contender]

There has been a resurgance in reproduction grips for these old guns. At least the seller was honest about them. (I saw a set on sleezbay a few days back.)
A nice Type 1 from what we can tell. Desirable gun! I'd put the old parts back in it,, and continue to enjoy it while making sure it didn't get abused. (You know,, thrown in under the truck seat, driven down a few 50 mile dirt roads, etc!)
It shows a bit of honest wear from use,, and not abuse. Continued shooting in the same fashion will not change the value of this gun!
NICE!!!!!

 

[Riconurse]

Thanks for all the input guys! Think I'll keep her in the shooting rotation. I'll hold off on unconverting for now. 6 is better than 5 at the range, the value of the gun only matters if I plan on selling it (not gonna happen).

 

[street]

as for the grips, what makes you say they are "reproduction"??? that is what they are supposed to look like, hard rubber (plastic) ,not bad from what we can tell of the picture......the original; grips, that look just like those pictured can run you in the $75 to $100 range,,,,,,,,,,

Rugerguy. Look at the Eagle. The feathers are much too short to be the Old Black Eagles. The grips are Repos. I hate that they are making those grips now, because someone is going to get cheated thinking they are the Old grips.

 

[rugerguy]

I did, and the closeup picture is on the blurry side, never know if the black is ALL there, or were they repainted, and run over?? Yes, they do appear to be on the "shorter" in the other pics, like to "see" the back side, and how the medallions are installed, never know, seen many ,many medallions replaced over the years and wish I had a nickel for everyone that we sold or replaced for customers since the mid 60's,,,,,,
as for the seller (dealer) saying they were, MOST sellers we see at the shows, wouldn;t know the real thing if you poked them in the eye,,,,as Ty said (hopefully) the seller was indeed 'straight up' and honest, but $50 is HIGH for repos around here...............
back to the grips, are they smooth or porous on the back side?? are the medallions "staked" in or are they glued............... the repos are usually porous, rough, NOT smooth and the medallions not properly staked in position, inquiring minds, need to know.................

aside from all of the above, still an awesome gun, great buy!!!

 

[Riconurse]

Grips are porous on back, medalions glued in. First time I fired it with the new grips, both medalions fell out, had to glue them back on. Bought them from a guy at a gun show in Lakeland Fla. "Ruger" Tom, or John. Apparently very well known in the Lakeland area. Told me the truth about the grips, and offered to do the unconversion for me. Had a very sweet display of old Rugers, and that's all he had was Rugers.

 

[americal]

A icon of RUGER guns the early .357 flattops :!: be very happy to own that gun

 

[rugerguy]

ta daa, that answers the question........and also tells you what happens when you use "non factory" stuff!!
STILL< a very nice gun!!!! keep an eye out ( open) as the original grips do pop up from time to time here on the Forum, in the classifieds.............

 

[Ale-8(1)]

The nice thing about the repop grip panels is that you don't have to worry about hurting them.

I have some nice original black panels on my Type I for "show and tell" but put some "less than wonderful" ones on when I shoot it.

 

[Triggerfinger]

Hi Rugerguy! Have a question about a 357 flattop 10" barrel ser# 360XX (higher than 36057 and lower than 36100). Not currently listed on the rugerforum data base. Blueing on most seems Ok but strap is all bare. What can you tell me about this gun in terms of value, collectors gun, ect. Thanks Triggerfinger.

 

[SATCOM]

Riconurse,

"Should I have it reconverted?" No! You should reconvert it.

Reasons;

#1 It is a high quality firearm that is safe as designed.
#2 You can get a free set of instructions from Ruger that will show you how it comes apart and back together.
#3 It is easy to disassemble and reassemble, but expert advise is available here at RF also.
#4 Used with the orginal lockworks the gun is so much better to shoot .
#5 You learn something about your guns operation, why load one skip one load four, and why bottom grip frame screws go in first and out last.
#6 That gun deserves to be as orginal. (I can make sure you get a good pair of correct grips, as many on the RF can. I don't come off of those type grips in good condition easily but your gun deserves a pair.)

Again that is one fine gun you have and welcome to the RF.

SATCOM

PS
#7 You cann't misplace the orginal lockworks ($150) if they are in the gun.

 

[flatgate]

Okay, I think I've got it figured out.
Not the best pictures (I took them with my phone) but they should give you some idea of the wear and general condition of the gun. Let me know what you think.

The ring on the cylinder is the result of an "uneducated" shooter. OM Rugers, Colt SAA's and similar firearms are best handled by the "savvy shooter". When loading prior to firing one should simply follow a procedure as "old as the hills". Empty cylinder: Open loading gate, pull hammer back two clicks to the loading/unloading position.
Load one cartridge. Roll the cylinder to the next chamber but then roll it again to the NEXT chamber after that and drop in a cartridge. Roll the cylinder and load the 4 remaining empty chambers. Close the loading gate. Pull the hammer to full cock then gently lower it to the "at rest" position where it should be lined up on that chamber that was left empty. Load One, Skip One, Load 4 more, pull hammer to full cock then gently lower it down to the "at rest" position over the empty chamber.

Voi'la! Never a "ring on the cylinder.

JMHO,
flatgate

 

[flatgate]

I found this one at a gun show here in Wyoming. A guy's gotta start somewhere!!

I got lucky and found a little better one.....

flatgate

PS Yes, it's on the "list".