Old Army help, please.

[john.41]

I own a lot of Rugers, but this is my first Old Army. Always wanted one in stainless, but pretty much gave up after they went out of production. On Sunday I ran across a blued one made in 1974, not perfect but real nice at a good price, I thought.
Looked at the Ruger disassembly videos, and can not get the cylinder out. Soaked it with Kroil overnight, no help. After looking at a schematic, it looks like the screw is in the wrong position by looking at the detent that holds it in. The slot also shows some buggering from wrong size screwdriver or excess torque on it.
Any Ideas? Is it even possible to get the takedown screw in wrong? Help!
If their is a next time, I will make sure I remove the cylinder before I hand over the cash.

 

[G2]

It's not a screw,
It's a pin that engages when turned clockwise to the 1/7 o'clock position.
Unlock, turn counter clockwise to the 3/9 o'clock position, or what would be inline with the horizontal plane of the base pin.

It is literally 1 back to 9

If this doesn't get you there, then come back for further steps.

 

[nvbirdman]

Is it the cylinder or the cylinder pin that you can't get out? If it's the pin, you can get some leverage by using the loading lever with the ram hitting between chambers.
Don't go Bubba gunsmith on this, just fairly light pressure should pull the pin out.

 

[Rclark]

Concur with above. That pin (which never leaves the gun) mentioned above should not take much pressure at all to turn from lock to unlocked and back with a screwdriver. As said above it isn't a screw . I can see bubba not reading the instructions and really torquing on that baby to get it out and bugger it up in the process when it just .... won't,,,,, 'budge'! . Now if you got the pin out and the cylinder won't come out... Make sure you have the hammer on half cock. The cylinder should just roll out to the side....

 

[pruger45]

Should be able to turn it with a dime!

 

[john.41]

It turns, but it is 180degrees out of position to release the pin. I also noticed the section sticking out of the frame is not quite parallel with the barrel.
Looking at the schematic of the part, when the head is counterclockwise to remove the pin, detent should be turned toward frame, so the dished part lets base pin slide out. I believe this one has been bubba'd, and bent the pin enough to let the retainer twist too far around.
If you have an OA handy, turn the slot to the remove position, and look at the other side and tell me where you see your detent ball.
I'm just about ready to over bubba it and see if it turns or breaks. It can not be disassembled as is.
Thanks for trying to help, I may not have explained it properly.

 

[G2]

I read a lot of frustration, first off if you bubba force it what is that going to accomplish? Calm down, we will get it figured out.

FIRST OFF, If you tweek the barrel end of the basepin, it will break, trying to force it out using the loading ram is a formula for disaster.

IF you can see the ball bearing detent it should be forward in the 9 o'clock position. On the side of the gun that reads "OLD ARMY".
This would be the open position,
AND if you were to flip the gun over it would be the 3 o'clock of the slot of the pin.
Either way to get this thing apart lets confirm the slot is in line with the basepin, barrel, horizontal.

Next PM me your email address or cell #, I can send you some pics, I have a OA apart right now.

PM sent to you

Edit 11/16 to add: I don't know where your looking at the schematic, but it got me thinking .... Wonder just what the schematic looks like so I went to Numrich, looked and the pin (part# 3) is WRONG!!!
It is showed in the open position,
however the ball bearing is on the wrong side :shock: in other words in the open position the ball would be 180 degrees where it is shown.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Ruger-33474/BlackPowderRevolvers-43427/OldArmy-38339.htm

If it were me at this point, I would remove the grips, capture the strut spring, drop the grip frame, hammer, trigger, bolt&spring, make sure the SLOT is 3-9 o'clock, drop the loading lever and from the rear, brass punch the base pin, turning the cylinder as I go.

With you mentioning the cocked base pin, I'm thinking its bent, once you get it moving it will free up in about 1/2".
Sad thing is when you go to straitened the basepin it's probably going to snap.

 

[ThomTender]

Thanks to all you Rugerites, I just purchased a R.O.A. and on reading this I immeadiately went and took out the cylinder, w/our info I would have not been able to figure it out . Great Topic. ThomTender

 

[john.41]

Thanks for the help G2, that is the schematic I was looking at. I'll PM you my email and try to get this thing straightened out.