New Vaquero: I CANT GET THIS BACK TOGETHER

[Doug.38PR]

This gun is a pain in the rear to get back together. I couldn't figure out how to get the trigger pin out to adjust, it's late so now I'm trying to get it back together. Got one long screw that came out of the bottom of the trigger guard area and I can't figure out which side it went in on. I'm squeezing the grip/trigger guard against the rest of the frame as hard as I can to get everything to line up.

This thing is REALLY ticking me off :evil: I could have had a dang Colt back together by now

 

[308longdistance]

This gun is a pain in the rear to get back together. I couldn't figure out how to get the trigger pin out to adjust, it's late so now I'm trying to get it back together. Got one long screw that came out of the bottom of the trigger guard area and I can't figure out which side it went in on. I'm squeezing the grip/trigger guard against the rest of the frame as hard as I can to get everything to line up.

This thing is REALLY ticking me off :evil: I could have had a dang Colt back together by now

The hammer pivot pin (14) has an indent on one end, whichever side the indent is on is the side the long screw (7) goes on to hold the pin in place.

 

[GasGuzzler]

As stated it can go either way depending on which way the dimpled pin was installed.

 

[Quiet 1]

I just reassembled mine yesterday. The longer screw goes, with the frame upside down and pointing at you, on the right side. Exactly as illustrated in the excellent schematic posted above by 308longdistance.

 

[Quiet 1]

The hammer pivot pin (14) has an indent on one end, whichever side the indent is on is the side the long screw (7) goes on to hold the pin in place.

308 longdistance, that schematic is excellent. I wish I had it 24 hours earlier. I somehow got that danged hammer strut (nr. 10) turned around backwards and couldn't figure why the gun wasn't going back together correctly. :roll:

I've taken the liberty of copying your great illustration for future reference. Thank you.

 

[Rclark]

After you disassemble a few times, it isn't that bad. Just had my original Vaquero apart last night to replace the hand (part #15 in above) that was giving me trouble. Gave me the opportunity to clean and re-oil too. The only part that I can't seem to ever do right is the simple depressing the spring (part #12 above) to get the trigger pin out. Lets see, hold the gun to the bench, depress the spring to release the pin, while pushing on the pin is always fun.

 

[caryc]

This gun is a pain in the rear to get back together. I couldn't figure out how to get the trigger pin out to adjust, it's late so now I'm trying to get it back together. Got one long screw that came out of the bottom of the trigger guard area and I can't figure out which side it went in on. I'm squeezing the grip/trigger guard against the rest of the frame as hard as I can to get everything to line up.

This thing is REALLY ticking me off :evil: I could have had a dang Colt back together by now

This is just a guess here but it sounds like you didn't capture the main spring on the strut before you took the grip frame off. You shouldn't have to be squeezing anything to get that grip frame back on. It sounds like you are fighting that main spring.

Take a look at the spring and strut just above number 6 in the drawing. Before taking the gun apart you cock the hammer and stick something like a paper clip in the hole in the strut below the spring. This captures the spring on the strut and takes all the spring pressure off the grip frame.

As far as that longer screw, if you get it in the wrong hole then it should stick up further than the screw in the other hole. If the two screw heads are about evenly sunk in the frame you've got them in right.

 

[caryc]

I just reassembled mine yesterday. The longer screw goes, with the frame upside down and pointing at you, on the right side. Exactly as illustrated in the excellent schematic posted above by 308longdistance.

Not necessarily. I have a Vaquero that I purchased brand new and the hammer pin was installed backwards at the factory.

 

[NitroAcres]

There are some really great vids on the Ruger site that show disassembly and reassembly..

http://www.ruger.com/resources/videos.html# (click the "Tech Tips" tile)

 

[flatgate]

I just gotta say it..... RTFM.

flatgate

 

[caryc]

I just gotta say it..... RTFM.

flatgate

Real men don't need no stinkin' manuals ! ! ! !

So sad, but generally true.

 

[SAJohn]

We are not laughing at you but with you as we have all struggled with those New Models. Compressing that spring (13) while trying to insert pin 12 is also fun. Struggling with parts 9 and 11 during finale assembly is always a joy. I even once put part 8 in backwards.

Now you know why most of us much prefer the Old Models.

 

[caryc]

We are not laughing at you but with you as we have all struggled with those New Models. Compressing that spring (13) while trying to insert pin 12 is also fun. Struggling with parts 9 and 11 during finale assembly is always a joy. I even once put part 8 in backwards.

Now you know why most of us much prefer the Old Models.

Talking about part 8 ??? I once put a grip frame back on and tightened everything down only to discover that about a quarter inch of that spring was sticking out between the cylinder frame and the grip frame.

I took it back apart and straightened out the spring best I could and it worked fine. :mrgreen:

 

[GasGuzzler]

I once put a grip frame back on and tightened everything down only to discover that about a quarter inch of that spring was sticking out between the cylinder frame and the grip frame.

I've never done that..... :shock: sure....I have.

 

[Doug.38PR]

aaaaand, I'm finding out in addition to not being able to get it back together the loading gate is loose and the lip of one of the little springs is in front of it (looks like it's supposed to slip behind it but looks like it worked its way in front of it when everything became loose in the gun after trying to take it apart. I would still like to know how to get it apart and adjust the action cycle where the bolt drops a little later to hear the full 3 clicks distinctly.

 

[gramps]

That is why if it ain't broke I don't fix it. If it is broke I find a gunsmith. The Lord knows I am mechanically challenged. Good luck. I feel your pain.
gramps

 

[Hondo44]

Try these videos:

Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related

An extended hammer plunger travel creates a more gradual engagement and transition over the tip of the rear cyl latch leg as well as holding the cyl latch down longer instead of popping up early and scribing a long line around the cyl. In a perfectly tuned action the cyl latch doesn't pop up until the cyl notch approach cut is over the latch and doesn't mark the cyl surface. To delay the cyl latch from popping up too early, Lee Martin suggests this on the hammer plunger:

To delay it more you need a longer hammer plunger. The base of a #42 drill bit is the easiest way to get the exact size rod and proper steel for the NM plunger. OMs seldom need this modification, but the OM pin size is a 1/8” drill bit.
The cyl latches can vary slightly so you may have to shorten the over-all length a little at a time until it works just right.

 

[sheep.dog]

Do you not have a manual? The first time I did it I followed the steps in the manual, took pics along the way put each part into a labeled baggy so they wouldn't get lost or mixed up. Turns out I didn't need the pics to put it back together.
Incidentally I did the same thing on the first aircooled VW motor I ever rebuilt.

 

[Doug.38PR]

Try these videos:

Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related

An extended hammer plunger travel creates a more gradual engagement and transition over the tip of the rear cyl latch leg as well as holding the cyl latch down longer instead of popping up early and scribing a long line around the cyl. In a perfectly tuned action the cyl latch doesn't pop up until the cyl notch approach cut is over the latch and doesn't mark the cyl surface. To delay the cyl latch from popping up too early, Lee Martin suggests this on the hammer plunger:

To delay it more you need a longer hammer plunger. The base of a #42 drill bit is the easiest way to get the exact size rod and proper steel for the NM plunger. OMs seldom need this modification, but the OM pin size is a 1/8” drill bit.
The cyl latches can vary slightly so you may have to shorten the over-all length a little at a time until it works just right.

yeeeeeee I have to file on something and there is no going back??? That sounds dangerous to me (dangerous as high risk of my permenantly screwing something up on the gun)

 

[GasGuzzler]

Don't try then. Jim gives great advice and is really helpful. He takes a lot of his time helping others, mostly out of view. Ask me how I know. No hard feelings as I like making tweaks.

 

[Doug.38PR]

The biggest pain in the neck is the loading gate spring. EVERYTHING that has to do with making this disassembly/reassembly difficult centers around that. I would love to take every tool on this table (screwdriver, hammer, brass rod and even gun) and use it in some way on the idiot who developed this spring and gate mechanism :evil: :!: :!:


EDIT: 2:30 am in the morning. After three nights and late hours messing with this thing I FINALLY got this gun back together. Thank y'all for all help and suggestions. Been very helpful. From the above mentioned frustrations, I think it will be a while before I even think about taking this thing apart again. Off to bed now, I am tired out and have church tomorrow (needs to be a smilie/emoticon for tired)

 

[NitroAcres]

The Ruger Guy in the video makes it looks so Simple...just a min or so to re assemble...actually after you do it a few times it is, just don't let frustration win.

 

[Doug.38PR]

The Ruger Guy in the video makes it looks so Simple...just a min or so to re assemble...actually after you do it a few times it is, just don't let frustration win.

He sure does :lol: I can laugh a little more about this now. If you didn't depress the spring with a thin screwdriver (hoping it doesn't slip) you couldn't get the pin back in, but if you depress the spring...you end up shifting the loading gate foward ahead of the loading gate so you need to have a third hand so you can keep a screwdriver holding the spring lip under the loading gate. (oh and you need a fourth and fifth hand just to hold the gun still during all of this) AND if you happen to not put the gate on before putting all this in, you have to take the whole thing apart again (and that pin is in there a lot tighter than the video makes it appear) just to slip the loading gate in.

that spring is so tight that it holds everything like steel. And it's hard to get the pin in or out or the spring down (screwdriver slips, brass pin slips off when you pound on the pin with a hammer, gun won't stay in place while you work or pound)

 

[caryc]

I seem to remember that Brownells makes a tool to do this. Here you go, I think this is what you need.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/takedown-tools/ruger-sa-gate-detent-spring-clamp-prod978.aspx

 

[Doug.38PR]

thank you!

 

[Hondo44]

My good friend and master gumsmith Jim Smeltzer designed and built that tool for Brownells many years ago. He's also a member of the forum.
Other tricks you can do is polish the pin so it will move in and out with finger pressure. Chamfer the sharp edges of the groove in the pin and the hole in the latch so it doesn't hangup on the hole. But I always put the loading gate in first. If the pointy end of the spring slips off the gate shaft, you can always pop it in after the pin is assembled.

 

[Doug.38PR]

Try these videos:

Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related

An extended hammer plunger travel creates a more gradual engagement and transition over the tip of the rear cyl latch leg as well as holding the cyl latch down longer instead of popping up early and scribing a long line around the cyl. In a perfectly tuned action the cyl latch doesn't pop up until the cyl notch approach cut is over the latch and doesn't mark the cyl surface. To delay the cyl latch from popping up too early, Lee Martin suggests this on the hammer plunger:

To delay it more you need a longer hammer plunger. The base of a #42 drill bit is the easiest way to get the exact size rod and proper steel for the NM plunger. OMs seldom need this modification, but the OM pin size is a 1/8” drill bit.
The cyl latches can vary slightly so you may have to shorten the over-all length a little at a time until it works just right.

is it possible to order a spare one of these and work on it? (so if you DO mess up, you're not left with a gun that doesn't work right). Some gun companies don't sell certain parts to non-gunsmiths for lawsuit reasons

 

[Hondo44]

is it possible to order a spare one of these and work on it? (so if you DO mess up, you're not left with a gun that doesn't work right). Some gun companies don't sell certain parts to non-gunsmiths for lawsuit reasons

Yes, but I have several, send me your address in a PM and I'll stick one in the mail to you, no charge.

 

[GasGuzzler]

Can't beat that. I too have had the gate spring slip and have been able to put it back with the whole thing assembled.

My advice: Get an Old Model that hasn't been converted, they are a lot simpler.