Needle oiler

Pat-inCO

Hawkeye
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
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In the AZ oven (Phoenix basin)
BOY SOME PEOPLE!
Go and post threads on a Buck 110 . . . . . . . sheesh!

I got to thinking and yup, I've got something like that (a Queen #39 from
high school), but that Buck 110 really looks nice. WHAT THE HECK, I'm
a big boy and it is OK for me to go buy one.

It came in Wednesday and looks really nice, but it just was not quite "right".
Dug out the needle oiler and put a few drops in some of the correct
places and, you guessed it, things got a whole lot better. Worked it in
and noticed some black gunk coming out. Wiped it down, put a few
more drops of oil in and worked it some more. Wiped out more black
gunk that keeps oozing out, and worked it some more.

Took about five minutes (or was it twenty five?) and a tad of very
comforting work, and what do I have? A Buck 110 that is smooth as
can be, really sharp and looks GREAT. 8)

:D Amazing what a needle oiler and some time can do
for your mental health. :D
 
We used to dot hat with Buck 110s a long, long time ago to make them one hand knives.

They get so smooth and easy you can just grab the blade between your thumb and index finger and flick it open one handed.
 
That's how Matt Helm opened his. The oil makes them smooth but if sand gets in it stays in.
 
Hi,

Every folder I own gets a similar treatment, right out of the box before I even use on anything. Perhaps that's a touch on the obsessive side, but I really don't like knives that don't open and close nice and smoothly. The treatment works for me.

It's become known as "yertling" them among a couple of friends, after I introduced them to URTL (pronounced "yertle" like the turtle) which stands for "Uncle Rick's Theory of Lubrication." It states "There is very little in life that squeaks, moans, groans or resists which can't be helped with a little of the right lubrication in the right spot at the right time."

BTW, the definition of "lubrication" is rather far reaching... ;)

Rick C
 
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Rick Courtright said:
Every folder I own gets a similar treatment,
right out of the box before I even use on anything.
I do that with 1911s. New or just new to me (been a while since either).
Full detail strip, clean every part, light coat of oil, reassemble and oil
all appropriate places. Works wonders for them.

The last time I bought a new knife was decades ago, so I just used the
time as a mental health break. Works well. :D
 
coach said:
If it moves oil it, if it doesn't paint it.
Or my theory is a little oil never hurt anything.

I always heard, "If it moves and it's not supposed to: duct tape. If it doesn't move and it's supposed to: WD-40".

In reality, however, WD-40 is a desperate last resort.... even 3-in-1 oil (or similar) is a better choice.
 
Once in a while flush mine out with electrical contact cleaner. I think it is basically brake cleaner, then I oil it up.

I wonder if anybody has tried frog lube on a Buck 110? Seems like a good application for the stuff.

I just picked up one with aluminum handles that needs to go back to Buck for a new blade. I am trying to decide which blade I want.
 
eveled said:
I wonder if anybody has tried frog lube on a Buck 110? Seems like a good application for the stuff.

Hi,

Does Frog Lube work well on "cold" applications?

A buddy introduced me to it with his AR, and showed how everything was dry until it got warm, when the lube turned almost like an oil until it cooled and turned "dry" again... strange stuff. Probably some thermosensitive polymers at work?

Rick C
 
Good point, I know people use it for knives. The biggest advantage it is non toxic so you don't get WD40 on your food.

I got a smoking deal on a s&w 317 that was so gummed up with the stuff it would not function.
 

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