Mounting a Scope on a Super Redhawk

[MikeSD]

I've got a few questions about mounting a scope on my Super Redhawk. The SRH is a .454 Casull. The scope is the Bushnell Elite. I'm thinking about using the included rings. But I have a few questions.

First, I have never mounted a scope on a handgun before. However, it's not a challenge that I feel is above my capability, providing I do my homework.

1) My first question is are the included rings worth using? I have read that some don't like them and others have no problem with them. I assume Ruger wouldn't include them, if they were harmful to the firearm or scope. I would like to use them, if they are adequate for the task.

2) I don't have much room to move the scope forward or backward. If I move it more forward, the zoom ring is too close to the rear sight (3). If I move it too far back, the scope ring touches the vertical adjustment knob. Do I need to maintain clearance between the vertical knob and the ring? It's not much to fret over but I'm just curious. Sighting is good, regardless of position choices.

3) I have the scope and mounts only loosely mounted. I haven't tightened anything. I just did this to allow me to take a photo. But what I noticed is that if I do sinch up just a bit, that there is tiny gaps on one side of the ring vs. the other. Might this all go away with proper sequencing of the tightening of screws and alignment?

4) I don't have a scope mounting kit but I guess I might need one. I'm wondering if lapping is an essential process or just a recommended practice. I have other rifles that have scopes mounted that didn't have lapping and have worked just fine. What are your thoughts on the necessity of lapping?

5) The last question is related to comments I have seen others make about having to retighten screws after firing. I would assume that proper mounting should include using some screw gripping (i.e. locktight), to prevent screws from backing out. But does this retightening come from other issues, other than thread locking? Should it be possible to securely mount a scope, using the included rings, without worrying about having to retightening the screws?

 

[98Redline]

I don't think that you will have to lap the rings on a pistol scope.

Rings on rifles are a different story because the rifle comes nearly straight back, without sufficient contact between the rings and the scope body, the scope can slide forward at the shot.

With the revolver the recoil is more upward and less straight back therefore the forces on the rings are different. I do recomend that you use some friction "enhancer" between the scope and the rings. On some of my rigs, just a properly cut piece of copy paper will work.

 

[jules]

I went to a higher ring set up on mine. Used the front ring for the rear and bought a higher ring for the front. I use sticky labels to line the inside the top and bottom of the rings. This protects the scope as well as keep it in place under recoil. I never used loctite on the ring screws but I guess the Blue would be ok. The older models came with slotted head screws and they would be very hard to get off when using loctite. I think all the newer models have torx head. If not you can get them from Midway or Brownells.

 

[MikeSD]

All good information.

I'm curious on a related topic. "Using Ring Alignment Tools". I have been reading the instructions on using ring alignment tools, that I downloaded online, in case I decided to go with a lapping kit.

In those instructions it said to put the two bars into each ring with points almost touching. Then it said to "make adjustments" of the rings so that the points are aligned. But three is no adjustment for the ring bases. They just clamp on and there isn't any way to make minor adjustments. The instructions don't say how to make this adjustment... just to do it.

If the tips of the alignment bars are off, say side to side or, up and down, or both, how are these adjustments typically made? Anyone here ever use this kind of tool?

 

[jules]

Thats works fine for dovetail rings or Millett type windage adjustable rings where the rings and bases are two pieces. You should not have to do any lapping with the Ruger rings. Why do you think you need to?

 

[MikeSD]

Thats works fine for dovetail rings or Millett type windage adjustable rings where the rings and bases are two pieces. You should not have to do any lapping with the Ruger rings. Why do you think you need to?

I don't know that I have to. But like I said above, when I loosely put the scope on the rings and lightly tightened them (uniformily so that both sides came down together), one side of the ring was touching the scope and the other side had a small gap. That made me think something might not be lined up correctly. I did not investigate this any further than to make sure I had top and bottom matching parts. I did. It was easy to tell which top went with which bottom.

I will play with this a bit to see if there is a way to get even contact between the ring and the tube, around the entire ring(s).

 

[jules]

Once you get all the screws tight it should be fine. But I could be wrong.
I don't lap rings but I have used a 1" reamer on some of my Encores and Contenders when I use Redfield steel dovetail rings. You would be surprised how much metal had to be shaved to get the whole contact surface. I would not suggest this with the Ruger rings. They flex a bit when you tighten the all the way down and if you remove too much metal they would be trashed.

 

[Rumrunner]

Mike,
It is fine if the vertical adjustment is against one of the rings. This also makes it easier to see if your scope has slipped any. If possible mount it like "macbullet" has shown in his picture. When your gun recoils back the force on the scope is to actually move forward so this helps prevent it from happening.

When you tighten things up, first tighten the ring bases to the gun and then the top half of the rings. Tighten evenly, going back and forth from side to side and ring to ring, and use loctite. The gaps may not completely close up and it is fine either way as long as the rings are tight. Try to keep the gas even on each side by tightening as stated.

I do not lap Ruger rings. I did once and they were good from the start. Do try and keep the same top with the same bottom as they come from the factory.

As stated alignment bars are only needed for Redfield / Leupold style rings, not Ruger rings. The Ruger system is one of the best out there. Once all is mounted and sighted in, you can remove the whole setup by loosening the bases from the gun (#1 in your picture) and use the sights. When you remount the rings to the gun your scope will still be sighted in.

 

[MikeSD]

Ok thanks, I'm not lapping.

I will do the final install later today. I will tighten the base first, and use locktite on the base. I will evenly tighten the upper ring screws and will NOT use locktite on those.

Thanks,

 

[Rumrunner]

Mike,
Use loctite on the rings (8 screws, 4 on each) and no loctite needed on the bases.

 

[208packinheat]

Repeating others and just my 2 cents, The Ruger rings are plenty capable, and from my perspective, you need look no further. As you sequence the tightening of the ring halve screws, you can control the "gap". If you tighten one end completely, then the other, one end will touch and the other will not. (Not sure this addresses your question number 3, but the key, equal and progressive tightening of the ring screws side to side and front to back).

Others have suggested Loctite. What ever blows up your skirt, but I have never had the occasion where Loctite was necessary, properly torque your ring screws and you will be OK. Torque by an educated feel, or if you can, torque by mechanical indication (FAT or other torque device), but do be as consistent and progressive in tightening as you can. take up a 1/4 or so on each screw in a defined sequence until take up is complete and you begin to apply torque to tightening screws. Do not take up and torque one and go to the next, you will cant the ring half and shift the top ring half toward the first end tightened (thus the gap).

AS far as alignment, I have found that if you fully torque the bases in first, then fit the scope tube, as you tighten the scope rings down, the scope tube will reflect any misalignment with gouges etc. I moderately (slight movement allowed, but not sloppy loose) tighten the bases (talking Ruger rings here) and then fit the scope, set scope and tighten ring screws, then final torque the bases. You do not have to break a blood vessel but "tight", I think if you were to measure it a well torqued ring base is in the 40-60 in-lbs. The ring screws probably in the 25-30 in-lbs. "inch-pounds" NOT Foot-Pounds (or pound-feet which ever you like).

Good luck.

 

[MikeSD]

I have an in-lbs torque tool. But nowhere have I seen any instructions that ever said to torque and to what values. I'll test the torquing using your values and see how it works. I'm going to test this on the screws, before I use them with the scope though, just to see how it feels (whether it's overtighting or under). Thanks for the numbers.

 

[MikeSD]

Regarding marking the top of the Ruger. Is there any effective way to prevent marking the top of the receiver? I suspect not. I thought about putting a piece of thin clear packing tape between the ring base and the revolver but I'm thinking that this wouldn't do much.

I did tighten the base and then removed it to see about marks an it wasn't too objectionable but I suspect under recoil, this would get worse, over time.