Moulds No1 Ruger Trigger

[dfletcher]

Does the Moulds hammer allow for a better trigger pull that can be had with an old style adjustable Ruger No1 trigger using the factory hammer?

I bought a LNIB Ruger No 1 in 220 Swift, it of course came with the non-adjustable trigger. I managed to get the last pre-1980 factory adjustable trigger off Numrich Arms (for $8.95 ) and have adjusted trigger pull down to about 2.5lbs.

In testing the trigger pull there seems to be a fair amount of sear engagement remaining between the safe 2.5 lbs down to about 1.5 lbs. Set at 1.5 lbs, the sear slips about 1 in 5 times when I close the action with a firm slam of the lever, holding the gun upside down. It seems to me I ought to be able to safely set at about 1.5 lbs. Am I wrong, will the Moulds help?

I'm not looking for a Remington 40X trigger pull, but this is a varmint model and it seems to me 2.5 lbs is a touch heavy.

 

[gewehrfreund]

OK, you have a varmint/target single shot rifle and it's safe when you close it normally and right side up. I don't see the problem. Just don't slam it shut upside down and you should be very happy; at least I would be. :wink:
While I don't have a lot of experience with the Mould's hammer, I wouldn't think that it has much influence on the trigger pull, unless you're using a lighter (or stronger) mainspring.

 

[dfletcher]

^^
Well that was my 1st thought, but having the hammer slip 20% of the time if a get a little vigorous closing the lever probably isn't a good idea. I would equate it with setting the trigger on a bolt action, then working the bolt rapidly and having the sear slip.

It seems to me I ought to be able to get a better pull. Maybe the Moulds hammer to sear angle is a bit higher allowing for a better pull, this is what I'm wondering.

 

[gewehrfreund]

The Moulds is a speed hammer, it decreases the lock time and reduces the amount of jarring in the rifle when the hammer hits the firing pin. Sear angle shouldn't be any different than the OEM hammer, but maybe a bit cleaner/sharper. If you want to noticeably reduce the pull using anything other than the trigger, you have to reduce the strength of the mainspring, which then brings up potential ignition problems. Polishing engagement surfaces will smooth things out, but I don't think it will significantly reduce the pull. I haven't noticed any difference in the pull weight for the Moulds hammer I have in a custom #3 222 Rem.; just less rifle movement when it hits the firing pin.

Edit: Should have added that the linkages in the factory Ruger trigger can also affect pull, especially if they are loose or stiff. This is why many like the Kepplinger SST since it eliminates trigger to sear linkage.

 

[dfletcher]

^^
Thanks, I tend to agree with your opinion. The sear notch angle should be the same on the Moulds, maybe a little sharper helps a touch. Which is really all I'm looking for, just a bit better. The Moulds comes with a mainspring, I'll leave it as is and install.

Links are all nice & tight, but not stiff. Overall I'm happy with the gun. It's my first No1 that I would consider an every day shooter.

 

[picketpin]

The "adjustable" trigger is not infinitely adjustable. I've used the same smith since way back in the 70s. He'll adjust the factory adjustable trigger to 3 pounds for the average customer. I can talk him into two pounds but that's due to years of working together on projects and mutual trust.

If you have yours at 2 1/2 pounds I wouldn't try for better.

If you want a truly LIGHT trigger you'll need to go to one of the custom after market

Frankly I would consider where you are with the rifle simply going off a fair percentage of the time, unsafe.

RWT

 

[dfletcher]

The "adjustable" trigger is not infinitely adjustable. I've used the same smith since way back in the 70s. He'll adjust the factory adjustable trigger to 3 pounds for the average customer. I can talk him into two pounds but that's due to years of working together on projects and mutual trust.

If you have yours at 2 1/2 pounds I wouldn't try for better.

If you want a truly LIGHT trigger you'll need to go to one of the custom after market

Frankly I would consider where you are with the rifle simply going off a fair percentage of the time, unsafe.

RWT

I have the trigger set at about 2.5 lbs now, it doesn't go off at all on that setting. It did fall when adjusted lighter and that's why I won't set it any lighter than 2.5 lbs given the factory trigger's limitations. If the Moulds allows for a slightly lighter setting with 100% safety, I'd be inclined to try try it.

 

[picketpin]

Nope, the speed or competition hammer and spring set will have nothing to do with the trigger pull. A Keplinger single set will get you lower as will a Canjar single set (out of production and hard to find)

The Moulds reduces lock time and due to the much lower weight imparts less "impact" and thus jump to the hammer fall but trigger pull will be what it was before you installed the new hammer/spring

Factory hammer weight 650 grams.
Moulds Speed Hammer - 400 grams
Competition Hammer - 330 grams

RWT

 

[El Numero Uno]

I think your units must be wrong on these weights- as given that there are about 454 grams to the pound, I don't think a factory hammer weighs well over a pound?
Are the weights in grains? Guess not, as the Moulds would weigh less than an ounce!

 

[Ruger # 1 Guy]

RWT's numbers are corect, but it's in grains not Grams, and yes the speed hammer is less that an ounce, and if you are looking for the most accurcy you can get out of a # 1 you will want / need a speed hammer.
Ruger # 1 Guy

 

[dfletcher]

I got the hammer today, installed it and the mainspring that came with it. I polished the sear with some extra fine Wet 'n Dry paper first, the adjusted the engagement. It gives a touch lighter and crisper pull, not a whole lot but can be felt. The hammer gives a neat "twang" vibration when it falls. I'm happy thus far.

 

[Ruger # 1 Guy]

I got the hammer today, installed it and the mainspring that came with it. I polished the sear with some extra fine Wet 'n Dry paper first, the adjusted the engagement. It gives a touch lighter and crisper pull, not a whole lot but can be felt. The hammer gives a neat "twang" vibration when it falls. I'm happy thus far.

I don't think it should have a "twang" or any "vibration"when you dry fire it, check to see if somehow your spring got bent, your heavy weight factory spring probably didn't have a "twang" or any "vibration" in it and the weaker light weight speed spring should not have one.
Ruger # 1 Guy

 

[dfletcher]

I got the hammer today, installed it and the mainspring that came with it. I polished the sear with some extra fine Wet 'n Dry paper first, the adjusted the engagement. It gives a touch lighter and crisper pull, not a whole lot but can be felt. The hammer gives a neat "twang" vibration when it falls. I'm happy thus far.

I don't think it should have a "twang" or any "vibration"when you dry fire it, check to see if somehow your spring got bent, your heavy weight factory spring probably didn't have a "twang" or any "vibration" in it and the weaker light weight speed spring should not have one.
Ruger # 1 Guy

I hear the harmonic "twang" with the forend off, nothing when it's on. The factory hammer didn't do it, true.

Nothing bent. Are you certain the Mould's spring is lighter than factory? I use a screw type tool to capture & pin when putting it on the strut and it felt just as heavy as the factory. Coils & OAL looked the same too. Hard to tell by cocking if it's the same or heavier.

 

[Ruger # 1 Guy]

The factory spring and the speed hammer spring is about the same in spring diameter and coil diameter but the length is different and that's what makes it lighter.

The factory spring is 53.5 lbs. and the speed spring is 45 lbs.

Twang and vibration is usually a sign that the spring is not "right" or maybe bent. It can also happen with the factory spring, especially if it's rubbing on the hanger. Sometimes if you take it off the strut and give it a half turn or so the twang and vibration will go away and it will work a lot smoother.
Ruger # 1 Guy

 

[dfletcher]

^^
Thanks, I'll take a look and tweak. I use a C clamp and small metal device to progressively compress the mainspring, came upon it when doing the same on a Browning HP. So it went on nice & easy, but maybe a twist is needed.

 

[johnc@Chickahominy]

I have a No. 3 that the rebarreler has apparently lost the hammer. I tried to find a Mould's hammer, but it would appear that the maker of these died in 2014. Is there a successor company? or is anyone aware of another source?