Mini 14 target rifle scope mount problem

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Claudius

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
4
Location
Duluth, MN
Hi,

I just came back from the range with my new Mini 14 Target Rifle with some questions.

1.) The scope mounts kept coming loose at the base after a few shots fired. I had the nuts tightened securely by using a large screwdriver and putting what seemed like a lot of torque. I repeatedly tightened the nuts on the scope rings and they repeatedly came loose after a few shots. Why? Is this a common problem? What can be done? I have heard locktite suggested elsewhere, is this a good idea?

2.) The ejected brass had a small dent on the middle of the body. I wonder if the brass hits the horizontal adjustment knob on the way out, perhaps jarring the scope mounts loose? I have seen one person who has his scope rotated so the horizontal adjustment knob faces upward, presumably to keep brass from hitting it. Is this also a problem? How do I solve it?

Help on this would be highly appreciated.
 

96/44

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
551
Location
Minnesota
You could try loctite on the scope mounts, just make sure you don't get the super high strength version. As far as your dented brass, it is probably hitting the operating rod, look for some brass colored marks near the charging handle to confirm. This is normal, it functions similarly to the brass deflector on an AR style weapon, most, if not all minis dent brass.
 

Claudius

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
4
Location
Duluth, MN
Thanks for your reply.

It seems that there are two recommendations about how to mount scope rings. One is to use a lubricant on the threads of the mounting screws. The other is to use Guntite or blue loctite.

Any ideas about which one is better?
 

Silent Sam

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Messages
728
I have never used either and have never had a problem with Ruger mounts. Are you sure the cam portion of the bolt is seated in the dovetail of the receiver before tightening?
 

Claudius

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
4
Location
Duluth, MN
I think so. The rear mount seems to have a slight gap at the base. I have followed the instructions and mounted the rings to the scope before attaching to the base, but the rear mount looks to be a little out of alignment.

I am thinking about disassembling the whole thing, mounting the bases independently and then attaching the scope and upper rings. I am not sure how this will work.
 

MFD

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
53
Location
S.Charleston, WV
The factory scope bases have a "lug" which engages a recess in the receiver of the rifle. Those have to be placed in such a manner that no movement takes place upon recoil. If properly engaged in the recess, the scope base will sit flat on the receiver, no visible gaps, space, etc. Once firmly sitting in the receiver bases, then take a quarter and tighten snugly, they will not come off or loosen. I would avoid using loc tite on the ring screws and even though some suggest/advise it, it can be a PIA when you wish to remove in the future. I prefer to use clear nail polish and torque tightly. If the ring screws are allen/torx type, use the short handle of the wrench, tighten as much as you can, then use the long end of the wrench, more leverage, and give 1/4 more turn, if you can and they are then torqued good enough.
You have a fair amount of money in the Target Mini 14 and prior to all of the above scope mntg. steps, would lap the rings so as to insure correct fit and no scope marring on the scope tube by high spots within the ring's interior. Doing this also provides positive/even grip on the circumference of the scope tube which also helps prevent any movement. Few if any rings are true in their final finish and the lapping process does not take long and easy to do and is a positive step for the rifle/scope combo you have. Good shooting!!

martin
 

Silent Sam

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Messages
728
Recommend mounting the ring bases first and then lay the scope in and make sure it is properly aligned. Make sure you keep the ring upper halfs w/ their respective bottom half and properly oriented (the way they came). If everything is in alignment then attach the tops maintaining an equal, even gap on both sides tightening the screws alternating side to side and front and back. I have mounted many sets and have never had a problem w/ loose mounts or ring tops. On several rifles, w/ the reticle centered, I have been within a couple of inches of elevation and dead on in windage. I have also removed and replaced scopes w/ little or no change in zero. Properly installed Ruger rings are rock solid.
 

MFD

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
53
Location
S.Charleston, WV
Silent Sam is "spot on" with his advise and like he said, I have never had any problems with the Ruger ring/mnt system for it is one feature lots of other mfg's wish they had going for them. Shoot Ruger RSM 458Lott, 375HH, and No.1 458Lott and recoil is stout and no scope ring problems of any sort.
 

Claudius

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
4
Location
Duluth, MN
Thanks for everyone's help. I followed Silent Sam's advice and everything seems much more solid now. I can't wait to get back to the range, I am sure it will be much better now.

I learned a lot by researching the subject of scope rings and learned a lot. Probably it was not wise of me to use a .95" broom handle with some 320 grit carborundum sandpaper cut to size to lap the mounts, but it worked like a charm.

I also used the advice on torquing the screws, it is very solid.

Again, thanks
 

jlinz

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
11
Mini 14s knocking mounts loose with the ruger scope mounts has been a common problem for me. Its always been the front mount toward the muzzle that comes loose for me, even with blue loctite. I think its a combination of things going on but maybe the operating rod and rotating bolt vibration/movements have something to do with it. I ended up trying the weigand combat rail that gives 4 points to tighten down and loctite (as opposed to 2 with the ruger rings) and have not had a problem afterward.

I now have a tactical version with the tapped mount and interestingly the front screw (nearest the muzzle) is also coming loose after blue loctite application as well. I was seeing horizontal stringing after 50 rounds (3 " horizontal group 1" vertical at 100 yds, which is usually the opposite with minis) . Grabbed a hold of the scope and found it moving side to side. I want to use the existing mount so I now tried red loctite just on the front screw. Hopefully I can get it off if i need to. I dont plan on ever removing the rail but if i do I guess I need to remember to use heat gun.

Jeff
 

DGW1949

Hunter
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Messages
3,652
Location
Texas
314Chevy said:
I have the same issue. Has anyone tried installing recoil buffers? I was thinking that might help.

I took a two prong approach....meaning that I replaced my factory gas bushing with one which uses an orifice a little less than half the diameter of the original, AND installed a Wilson (blue) 1911 buffer on the rear of the op-rod spring guide (towards the receiver). Doing those things served to reduce the rear-ward rearward impact of the action significantly.
Problem is though, nothing you can do relative to the rearward impact is going to do one dern thing to reduce the forward impact which is generated when that heavy op-rod gets slammed into the gas block by the op-rod spring. And me thinks that it's the Mini-14's bi-directional impact (or recoil if you prefer) each time the gun is fired which is responsible for the mount, ring and/or scope problems which a lot on Mini owners have experienced.

Yeah, you could install a buffer on the front by pushing it over the gas piston so's that it rest on the inside of the gas block...but sooner or later, it's going to get charred and brittle due to the heat being generated by the gas system. Plus, it's going to pre-load the op-rod travel rearward by the same distance which the buffer is thick, which in turn means that it may cause the bolt to be close to not locking-up properly when in battery. Plus, if/when the (front) buffer does deteriorate (and it will), it's likely that some chunks will get caught up in the op-rod's piston hole, and if that was to happen, it would impede the bolt's forward travel even more.....bang, bang, click....oops.

DGW
 

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