I recently was trying my first attempt at reloading. And got a case stuck in resizing/decapping die. So now I'm told that lube is not needed on a straight wall case (444 marlin case) Is this true or not?
Thank You
Thank You
Lube or no Lube
- Thread starter D_Gunner
- Start date
If you are using dies with a carbide insert you don't need lube however using steel dies you do need it.I don't know of carbide dies for the 444 so I would say lube them.Also I would look at getting the rcbs stuck case remover,been a lifesaver for me a couple times.
Clovishound
Blackhawk
I never lube my straight walled cases. 9mm and .38
I have loaded thousands with my carbide Lee dies.
I have never stuck a case in the dies.
They do size easier with a little lube. Looking at a picture of the 444 case, I think I would probably lube them since they are about 4 miles long.
Now with .223, you had better lube them. I tried the lube every other one procedure. That resulted in my first stuck case. Luckily, I was going slow, so I was able to remove t without a lot of fuss. If I had been cranking hard on the handle, I would have had to bring out the big artillery.
I have loaded thousands with my carbide Lee dies.
I have never stuck a case in the dies.
They do size easier with a little lube. Looking at a picture of the 444 case, I think I would probably lube them since they are about 4 miles long.
Now with .223, you had better lube them. I tried the lube every other one procedure. That resulted in my first stuck case. Luckily, I was going slow, so I was able to remove t without a lot of fuss. If I had been cranking hard on the handle, I would have had to bring out the big artillery.
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Hi,
While i was taught to lube all bottleneck cases, I'd extend that advice to all rifle rounds: note clovishound's comment on the length of the .444 Marlin! That no lube on straightwall cases idea is ok with pistol/revolver ammo when using carbide dies. Even so, a touch of lube every 10-15 rounds will make cases go thru carbide dies easier, too. I dunno if any of the straight wall rifle dies are carbide or not? Somebody once tried to make a .223 carbide die, but I don't think it was very successful--other than that I'm ignorant about any carbide rifle dies.
Also, note the comment about "going slow" vs slamming things thru: when you're resizing the case, you're moving metal. And it takes time for it to move, even though you're only moving a tiny bit a small amount. So a consistent slower, even pull on the handle is a good technique to learn...
Rick C
While i was taught to lube all bottleneck cases, I'd extend that advice to all rifle rounds: note clovishound's comment on the length of the .444 Marlin! That no lube on straightwall cases idea is ok with pistol/revolver ammo when using carbide dies. Even so, a touch of lube every 10-15 rounds will make cases go thru carbide dies easier, too. I dunno if any of the straight wall rifle dies are carbide or not? Somebody once tried to make a .223 carbide die, but I don't think it was very successful--other than that I'm ignorant about any carbide rifle dies.
Also, note the comment about "going slow" vs slamming things thru: when you're resizing the case, you're moving metal. And it takes time for it to move, even though you're only moving a tiny bit a small amount. So a consistent slower, even pull on the handle is a good technique to learn...
Rick C
DGW1949
Hawkeye
D_Gunner said:
No it aint.....and the fatter/longer the case, the more not true it is.
DGW
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
My rule of thumb is clean and lube all cases before sizing them. I use a water soluble lube for pistol caliber brass and a wax lube for rifle calibers.
Hornady Case Lube. Good stuff.
Hornady Case Lube. Good stuff.
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Lube all rifle brass before sizing. Pistol brass CAN be sized in carbide dies without lube (and I do it all the time) but a little lube on about every fifth case will ease things a bunch. I use imperial sizing die wax on rifle brass.
101VooDoo
Single-Sixer
I reload straight cases on a progressive press.
A little bit of One-Shot sprayed into a zip lock bag with 100 or so cases and then rolled around a bit really eases the process.
A little bit of One-Shot sprayed into a zip lock bag with 100 or so cases and then rolled around a bit really eases the process.
DGW1949
Hawkeye
I'm a big fan of Hornady One Shot.
Set the cases in a load block, skipping every other space in a checker board pattern. Lightly spray 'em from one side, then from the opposit side. Wait about 30 seconds, then start loading.
Beats the heck out of messing around with that goppy/sticky stuff that comes in "reloading kits".
DGW
Set the cases in a load block, skipping every other space in a checker board pattern. Lightly spray 'em from one side, then from the opposit side. Wait about 30 seconds, then start loading.
Beats the heck out of messing around with that goppy/sticky stuff that comes in "reloading kits".
DGW
Carbide sizing dies are great BUT they're not magic. A while back, I got some grossly oversized 9mm cases in a batch of range brass. While they sized dry OK, the strain of pulling them from the die ripped off a couple of rims and finally dislodged the carbide insert from the Dillon sizing die.
Sizing lube is cheap and easy-much easier than extracting a stuck case.
Sizing lube is cheap and easy-much easier than extracting a stuck case.
mr surveyor
SP-101
I have no problem with straight walled revolver brass (or .45 acp), but found that I need to send a lubed case about every 5 to 6 rounds through when sizing 9mm. I use Lee case lube cut with alcohol and applied with a spray bottle. Throw a bunch of brass in a ziplock (I use the same bag over and over to take advantage of all the case lube residue left behind), give it only a couple of squirts, then work the brass around to get them all "touched". Doing single stage loading, it's pretty easy to reach over and grab a lubed case to slip into the process when needed.
This is too simple...read the instructions that the die-makers put out. The 44 Marlin is a tapered case and therefor does not use the carbide insert that a straight walled case can use. It must be lubed. I have pasted an ad from Midway, partway down the page there is a paragraph from RCBS that in one sentence it says " Cases must be lubed prior to sizing." http://www.midwayusa.com/product/386516/rcbs-3-die-set-444-marlin?cm_vc=ProductFinding
I keep OneShot around for cleaning dies and lubing some things, I no longer use it for case lube as I have had a couple of stuck cases using this product. I am becoming a fan of die wax, and I use a couple of different brands of it with success.
I keep OneShot around for cleaning dies and lubing some things, I no longer use it for case lube as I have had a couple of stuck cases using this product. I am becoming a fan of die wax, and I use a couple of different brands of it with success.
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