Boge
Single-Sixer
Has anyone figured out or have a link to an LC9 complete disassembly?
LC9 Disassembly
- Thread starter Boge
- Start date
Ratster
Bearcat
Suggest you try YouTube. They "might" have something...
Boge, It's highly doubtful that very many people have completely taken an LC9 apart because they are relatively new! I personally have never had my hands on one as yet. However, I have tackled this problem on many occasions with sucess. Looking at the factory manual, field stripping is straight forward and the schematic has all of the parts well laid out. The frame insert should be easy enough to take out as a unit. I would suggest that you take it to a local "competent" gunsmith and ask to work with him as you disassemble the pistol. You may be surprised that a lot of gunsmiths will do this as they are learning on new guns also and will have some "good" ideas that you may not think about. I would also take some good photos of the gun "after" field stripping to know the "orientation" of parts for later use...................Dick :wink:
Dick, I looked at the schematic on Ruger's website & it looks needlessly complicated. Good Lord, they have six small different springs in the frame assembly!! :shock:
What I really wanted to know was how to remove the FP to clean the channel as that always seems to gunk up. However, by looking at the schematic it looks like you have to remove the safety mechanism underneath the rear sight. Needlessly complicated. Surely they could have designed a better way. That will require a range visit afterwards to re-zero the rear sight. :x
What I really wanted to know was how to remove the FP to clean the channel as that always seems to gunk up. However, by looking at the schematic it looks like you have to remove the safety mechanism underneath the rear sight. Needlessly complicated. Surely they could have designed a better way. That will require a range visit afterwards to re-zero the rear sight. :x
When I take sights off a gun, I place two index marks usually with a "thin" point magic marker before removing the sight. One on the sight and one on the slide/barrel etc. Easy enough to put the sight back where it was and the magic marker cleans off easily with laquer thinner or equivalent!.................Dick :wink:
I've done that before Dick, but it seems as I always had to move it a frog hair one way or the other to get back to a perfect zero. 
What's your take on getting the FP out to clean the channel after looking at the schematic? Am I correct that the rear sight has to come off? If you look at the schematic it appears that part #32 rides in #28, the firing pin. At first I thought that was crazy but now I think that the FP is two parts and the actual FP is in the inner sleeve. Am I all wet?
http://www.ruger.com/products/_expViews/lc9/expView.pdf
What's your take on getting the FP out to clean the channel after looking at the schematic? Am I correct that the rear sight has to come off? If you look at the schematic it appears that part #32 rides in #28, the firing pin. At first I thought that was crazy but now I think that the FP is two parts and the actual FP is in the inner sleeve. Am I all wet?
http://www.ruger.com/products/_expViews/lc9/expView.pdf
Well, I figured out the slide (except for the ejector). Let me tell ya, it's a SOB to get the FP out. :shock: You have to unlock the Allen set screw in the rear sight a 1/4 turn. NO MORE! Drift the sight out L to R (from the rear). While doing this you need to keep an eye peeled so that parts don't fly out underneath which are held captive by the sight. There are three parts. One spring is tiny and the other part is miniscule. Be careful & cover the sight with a rag to catch them as you drift. Lift out the three parts.
Next, you have to drift out the roll pin holding the "Loaded Chamber" indicator. I used a 1/8" RP cupped punch. I did it L to R just like the rear sight. LEAVE the roll pin punch in the hole after the roll pin is punched out as it will serve as a "slave" pin. Slowly retract the roll pin punch with your other hand holding the loaded chamber indicator down as there is a small spring underneath it at the rear. Lift out the indicator bar SLOWLY and you will see the small spring. Remove it.
It was here that I was perplexed as the firing pin still functioned. There was nothing I could see that held it in. :? What was holding it in place? I did not have a copy of the schematic at hand so I tinkered. There is a small hole on the bottom of the slide between the rear of the gun & the breech face. I slowly inserted a 1/16" punch pushing down and the firing pin gave way!! On the shop rag on the other side was part #34 that entraps the FP. I then cleaned the FP channel which was full of factory gunk, brass shavings as well as carbon from shooting. Reassemble in reverse order. Reassembly is much more difficult than disassembly, I assure you. :wink:
This is not for the timid or the neophyte IMO. However, a gunked up FP channel can cause a misfire. I clean mine on my Glock every time. At the least it should be a once a year for even casual shooting IMO. NEVER put oil in the FP channel as it will act like a magnet for debris to adhere to.
On another note, you cannot remove the "Loaded Chamber" indicator permanently as it holds down the part that entraps the FP. A person could cut it in half and only install the rear half if needed.
I accept no responsibility if someone decides to follow my instructions and actually do NOT recommend this if you are not familiar with totally disassembling guns.
Next, you have to drift out the roll pin holding the "Loaded Chamber" indicator. I used a 1/8" RP cupped punch. I did it L to R just like the rear sight. LEAVE the roll pin punch in the hole after the roll pin is punched out as it will serve as a "slave" pin. Slowly retract the roll pin punch with your other hand holding the loaded chamber indicator down as there is a small spring underneath it at the rear. Lift out the indicator bar SLOWLY and you will see the small spring. Remove it.
It was here that I was perplexed as the firing pin still functioned. There was nothing I could see that held it in. :? What was holding it in place? I did not have a copy of the schematic at hand so I tinkered. There is a small hole on the bottom of the slide between the rear of the gun & the breech face. I slowly inserted a 1/16" punch pushing down and the firing pin gave way!! On the shop rag on the other side was part #34 that entraps the FP. I then cleaned the FP channel which was full of factory gunk, brass shavings as well as carbon from shooting. Reassemble in reverse order. Reassembly is much more difficult than disassembly, I assure you. :wink:
This is not for the timid or the neophyte IMO. However, a gunked up FP channel can cause a misfire. I clean mine on my Glock every time. At the least it should be a once a year for even casual shooting IMO. NEVER put oil in the FP channel as it will act like a magnet for debris to adhere to.
On another note, you cannot remove the "Loaded Chamber" indicator permanently as it holds down the part that entraps the FP. A person could cut it in half and only install the rear half if needed.
I accept no responsibility if someone decides to follow my instructions and actually do NOT recommend this if you are not familiar with totally disassembling guns.
Rabon
Single-Sixer
Boge is there anything in the slide that diesel fuel would damage ? (plastic sleeves, cups, retainers etc. etc.)Boge said:
Boge, Good job! Now your learning the way I learned about guns. Seat-of-the-pants maintenance. I guarantee you won't forget this pistol or the experience. It gets a lot easier the 2nd time as you have a "plan" already worked out! Be sure to take a "lot" of notes while you disassemble/assemble guns. I suggest you pick up as many assembly/disassembly books as you can find as they will pay dividends later on, even though the latest/newest guns are not usually in them. The NRA books and books by J.B. Wood, David Chicoine, Kuhnhausen, etc. I have taken many guns apart without instructions over the years and it really does get easier as you pick up a lot of little "nuggets" you can use on other guns, even of a different make/model! You also figure out how to make "special" tools that will help you in this endeavor. There are only so many ways to engineer and put a gun together and there are a lot of similarities in guns...............Dick :wink:
Rabon said:
I cannot remember if the small part #34 is plastic or metal as it is tiny. However, letting the entire slide soak will not remove all the crap from the FP channel as there is no way to exit other than the tiny FP hole. To clean it you will have to disassemble it. Period. No free lunch on this one.
As Pinecone said, now that I know how to do it it is not THAT bad. Remember, I was "flying by instruments" only the first time and you now have a map. :wink:
Here's how to remove the mag disconnect:
http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum/firearm-cleaning-maintenance/121751-ruger-lc9-magazine-disconnect-removal.html
Boge said:
I used this method today and it works. One important point (that caused several installs, removes of the rail) is that part #50, hammer latch, is NOT in the rail assembly. It lives in the frame at the top/rear, just under where the hammer would be. Once I understood that the gun went back together okay. Oh, and the hammer needs to be setting straight up when you push the latch into place.
Boge said:
I don't honestly know yet. I hope to go to the range this afternoon. I've always noticed a slight grit toward the end of the pull, just before the stage point. When I got the gun back together and did a couple of snap-cap dry fires to test the function it "seemed" like the grit wasn't there. I hope it's not just wishful thinking. I'll for sure report the results if I make it to the range today - May 29th.
On the FP removal/cleaning...I gave up on finding the answer (until now..thanks) so use a cleaning method that sort of works. I spray the channel opening (breach end) with RemOil or CLP (thinking about WD-40) and let it soak for several minutes. Then I clamp the slide in a soft vise and press the FP in and out while blowing it out with compressed air (not canned). The first two times I did that lots of "yuk" came out. I would like to keep the channel dry. RemOil and CLP evaporate pretty good but I"m thinking WD-40 might leave it drier. Thoughts???
I was too much of a PITA so wife sent me to the range.... tough life...
I'm happy to report that the LC9's trigger is indeed smoother. Same long heavy pull but the grit is gone and the pause right at stagging is gone. I like it way way more than before. It's not quite as smooth as my Glocks but I bet it will be. That polymer trigger just has to smooth on it's own.
I'm happy to report that the LC9's trigger is indeed smoother. Same long heavy pull but the grit is gone and the pause right at stagging is gone. I like it way way more than before. It's not quite as smooth as my Glocks but I bet it will be. That polymer trigger just has to smooth on it's own.
Boge, two questions.
One, is it still required that the sight and hidden parts be removed to get the firing pin out. Sounds like attacking from VCI might be all that's needed.
Two, thoughts regarding the use of WD-40 to soak the channel? I used it for years on boat motors and my VW beach buggy to get water out. It always seems to evaporate completely.
One, is it still required that the sight and hidden parts be removed to get the firing pin out. Sounds like attacking from VCI might be all that's needed.
Two, thoughts regarding the use of WD-40 to soak the channel? I used it for years on boat motors and my VW beach buggy to get water out. It always seems to evaporate completely.
