Just picked up a Single Six 3 Screw. Questions…

[Randyzzz]

I was the lucky bidder on a Single Six 3 Screw, and I picked it up today. Now that I have it in my hand, and not looking at blurry pictures, I have some questions for the more knowledgable.

I was looking for a 1960 vintage, and this was listed as such. The serial pic was blurry but from what I could see it looked right. Well, it’s a 5 digit serial, not a 6 digit. From what I can see it’s an early 1955. Am I correct? If so I’m good with that. I paid under $400 for it so what’s not to be happy about? What’s throwing me off is the rounded gate, and the non-serrated ejection rod. How/why/probably changed at a later date?

Overall it’s in good shape. There’s the slightest hint of freckling on the barrel, like it was kept in a holster. The rifling is shiny, and the cylinder bores look great. It’s unconverted and has a smooth action and fair trigger pull. The grips are quite brown, and in great shape with just a bit of paint missing on the right medallion. The brown tone is even side to side.

So, I’d call this shooter grade. My big ol hands don’t take kindly to the tiny XR3 grip frame. Seeing as it’s not a pristine gun- I’m thinking of putting a RW aluminum grip frame on, and maybe a wide trigger off a Super. Leave the finish as is- it has that well- loved look. I can probably sell the grips and grip frame for a decent amount- some trashed ones just sold for $150 on E-Bay. Tell me what you think. Here’s some pics…

I’ve got my eye on a similar condition 1960 .22 Mag that I hope goes my way…

 

[contender]

Ok, according to the RENE Guide,, that gun is a 1955, a type 2 Flatgate. And in VERY nice condition. Great score there.
It has the correct short throw ERH. The button appears to be the "dimpled" type,, maybe. If it has a solid head,, it's been replaced at some point.
It should have had a Flat loading gate. That has been replaced with the later round one. Sometimes people sent a gun back & had it replaced,, and some have done it after they had it.
Look at the rear of the front sight. It should be serrated to assist in reducing glare.

Looking closely at the pictures,, and with the round loading gate, and the possible replaced ER,, I wonder if the gun hasn't been through a re-blue at some point. Maybe when the parts were swapped out??

Pull the cylinder,, look at the rear of the frame where the firing pin is. Most often,, a re-blue,, will have the entire area around the firing pin blued. But the factory installs the firing pin & it's retaining "cup" after they blue the frames. It'll appear to be a shiny circle a little bigger than 1/8".

 

[Randyzzz]

The back of the front sight is finely serrated. The ejection rod is not dimpled. The reblue clues… well, the bottom portion of the cup where the casing hits is definitely not blued. But above that it might be blued, but poorly/ lightly? It looks like someone ran a file across the top of the recoil shield and then touched it up. I’m wondering if this was sent back to Ruger at some point for repair and the gate and rod were updated. Possibly not Ruger but some local ‘smith. My initial impression was that the grip frame looked newer. But the grips look original. The grip frame screws look like they have never been removed- or they’ve been replaced with newer ones. (The grip frame on my 1977 SS matches better finish wise, this one looks like a later vintage painted gripframe). I guess I’ll send to Ruger for a letter.

 

[contender]

I'd GUESS,,, (and this is just a wild guess, without handling it myself,) it may have been re-blued. And maybe by the factory. This was done often in the early years when frames turned color & were returned. And, this has been done by the factory for individuals often. The ER is not original if it's not a serrated or dimpled one. A correct one would be serrated I believe, because it has all the other features of a Type 2 Flatgate, except for the loading gate.
If it were my gun, a letter from Ruger would be required. BUT,,,,,,,,,, specify that you wish to see if it had been returned to the factory for repair or re-blue. They may or may not provide that info, (many of the maintenance/repair records are not easily found or even still exist) but it never hurts to ask.
Screws can be replaced or properly removed & re-installed by a good person with the correct screwdrivers.

Even if it's a re-blue, and even if you decide to try & replace the (2) parts with original ones,, you still got a very good deal.

 

[Randyzzz]

Thank you for your answer! Yes, I am happy with the deal I got. It will definitely be a shooter. I’ll send for the letter, maybe try and source original parts…but as a shooter, it’s plenty fine as is.

 

[contender]

If it were mine,, I'd hunt for original parts & make it "right." But as a shooter,, it may not matter. Just make sure you load & such properly to prevent the dreaded "cylinder turn line."

 

[Randyzzz]

Will do. There’s already a slight turn line on this one- hence the “shooter” designation. I have my eye on a matching condition .22 Mag that will be a shooter also. At some point I’ll invest in a safe queen- it can keep the .44 Super I bought from Weaselmeatgravy company.

 

[G2]

Nice condition early Single Six.
Looking close at the base pin, it looks a bit modern the end is sharp edges and should be rounded.
Nice correct well curved skinny trigger,
Capped (left side) base pin latch.

A popular accessory of the time frame was a Premier Round Loading Gate, They were long and shapely, this is not one of the Premier’s but thinking it was changed out for the round lookl
The Ejector Rod was most likely changed out as the flat serrated are just that flat and serrated the wrong way. (IMO) attention to detail is needed when operating them, The ”new & improved” button was the “upgrade” of the times.

You did get yourself a nice shooter, and with the way things are going with the Wrangler, who knows how long the Single Six will be around.
…. and what’s not to like about a early 5 digit gun.

 

[Randyzzz]

Amen to that!

I wouldn’t be surprised if the base pin was replaced at the same time the gate and ejector were changed. At least they didn’t perform the dreaded transfer bar update.

Is there any marking on the frame that would show if the gun was ever sent in for the update?

There’s a couple more SS models I would like to find… at affordable prices. Likewise other 3screw Blackhawks that are on my radar. There’s one up for bid now…but the opening price is way too high IMHO.

 

[G2]

Is there any marking on the frame that would show if the gun was ever sent in for the update?

Ruger stamps a "R" on the cylinder frame, it's located under the grip frame, thus the grip frame has to be removed to verify.

 

[rugerguy]

Randy that is a fine looking version, you did good....looks OK doubt if it was reblued, the marks are correct and only way to know is like stated above , when you remove the grip frame to replace that 'later' factory round gate to put in a proper vintage ( era) flat loading gate you'll "maybe"?? see the "R" stamped on the bottom of the cylinder framer, I d say no as the screws look good and who ever swapped out the gate did it long ago and did it right, other parts are OK and the ejector rod could have been changed at any time, no big deal, again NICE gun, nice ;brown faded color to the hard rubber ( plastic) grips and thats a neat, early serial number....Nice job on the picture taking too, looks good, just a bit of glare on the 'close ups' (Inside the cylinder frame)
thanks for sharing..........

 

[mhblaw]

Well, if it were me, I would review all these comments and then just go and shoot it.

 

[Randyzzz]

Randy that is a fine looking version, you did good....looks OK doubt if it was reblued, the marks are correct and only way to know is like stated above , when you remove the grip frame to replace that 'later' factory round gate to put in a proper vintage ( era) flat loading gate you'll "maybe"?? see the "R" stamped on the bottom of the cylinder framer, I d say no as the screws look good and who ever swapped out the gate did it long ago and did it right, other parts are OK and the ejector rod could have been changed at any time, no big deal, again NICE gun, nice ;brown faded color to the hard rubber ( plastic) grips and thats a neat, early serial number....Nice job on the picture taking too, looks good, just a bit of glare on the 'close ups' (Inside the cylinder frame)
thanks for sharing..........

Thanks! I rely on the camera in the IPhone more than I like to admit. The glare on the last pic was an external light source- without it you could t see the details.

 

[contender]

I will defer to rugerguy as to the possible reblue. He's a LOT smarter than I when it comes to that.

 

[rugerguy]

thank you, just gotta remember that a lot of the "final" fitting on the handguns ( revolvers) back in the daya had to be "fit & file" after the fact, the parts are blued before and then put together ,now the exception to the with Ruger was the S-47 (super Blackhawks) they were blued as "One", the grip frame attached to the cylinder/barrel frame, and if you ever took the frames apart you would "see" the blue did not take inside ,between the frames the metal will be "in the white" yes a bit seeps in....so you will see "white" bare metal or file marks "In the white" on "new original guns, but not on reblued ones that is not to say if they ran into any building " problems or issues the gun may go bacj through the system get taken apart , reblued then ( new) so years later its a 'crap shoot"...yes a GOOD "restoration" will build back into it , some "wear and fitting? yes you can still be fooled,, ( we used to shoot the guns after we redid it, if only they could talk.................
and on the "Normal" tell tale signs of any reblue is of course the "over all" colors, rounded, NOT sharp corners , sharp lettering ( rollmarked are NOT that sharp), and washed out screw holes not sharp top edges,,,if it LOOKS like a reblue, it most likely is, original is just that along with wear, use, fading, holster wear, even too much cleaning wiping down, with an improper rag, towel....and of course fouling, lead, et.,c in the chambers of the cylinder , and the bore of the barrel .........

 

[Hondo44]

My initial impression was that the grip frame looked newer. But the grips look original. The grip frame screws look like they have never been removed- or they’ve been replaced with newer ones. (The grip frame on my 1977 SS matches better finish wise, this one looks like a later vintage painted gripframe). I guess I’ll send to Ruger for a letter.




The alloy grip frames were not fitted and match polished to the main frame like the steel grip frames. That’s why your stainless steel gun has such a better fit.

 

[Randyzzz]

Well, looks like she might be a virgin. No safety modification brand…I’m loving it!

The

The screws on the grip frame were TIGHT! They had the little red factory lock-tire on all of them. And the grip frame itself felt like it was glued to the frame. I know it had to have been apart before, but it felt just like I was taking it apart for the first time. I’m

 

[dobegrant.45]

I am just a shooter not a collector per we, what I see is a really nice shooter you picked up at a good price

 

[Randyzzz]

Well, I just got back from my first few shots with her. I am in love. This is without a doubt the smoothest little revolver I own. Luckily the “range” ( box canyon) is about 3/4 mile up the road. I’ll be spending a lot of time there. The only adjustment needed is I want to drift the rear sight to center. It came offset to the left, and shot to the left. If I centered the front blade on the right of the rear, it shot dead on.

I also took my new model Single Six- it’s sweet but it has been dethroned by this one.

I also tried out the CCI Quiet ammo. It is not at all uncomfortable without hearing protection. But still too loud for backyard plinking. I had high hopes… it is pretty weak too- it won’t penetrate a thin file cabinet side panel from 10 yards.

I can see a few more of these old model Single Sixes in my future.

 

[dobegrant.45]

Awesome report, glad you found a new best gun