Is this simple mod ok?

Joe S.

Hunter
Joined
Feb 4, 2011
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4,846
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Central MS
A guy i know told me he did this on his NM Vaquero and it lightened the trigger pull a good bit. I tried it on this NM Single Six and it did seem to lighten the pull a little. Is it damaging to anything to do this?

Took this spring:
D93186F4-A09D-4A69-A2E8-4577B7A192EB-3149-000002F3FFFB8A7C.jpg


And put it under the pin
2F808851-BBFA-4843-B5C3-E0DDD19429DA-3149-000002F4067B2EA7.jpg


Also just curious. Are octogon barrels available for these guns?
 
they call that "the poor boys trigger job...." yes it does seem to help, but the proper way would be to slightly bend BOTH legs of the spring and hook it back in place,keeps things even and NOT "off set" (pressure to one side or the other)..............
as for octagon barrels, need to be custom made,any good smith or barrel company can provide the blanks...and have the barrel swapped and fitted PROPERLY , with the proper tooling...........
 
Picture two -- bend the spring at thre front of the post so it will go back over the post. Somewhere there are pics of the mod. I'll look.


#2 fix in this link.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html
 
IMO, there's two legs to the spring for a reason yet many go that route rather than spend a few dollars for new springs. Evidently the want isn't enough to warrant the small cost. :roll eyes:
 
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I did a couple like that. Then I discovered Wolff springs. Easy replacement and not a huge expense. Polishing the action a bit does the rest. Every new gun is a project for me. Keeps me busy on weekends.
 
Pal Val said:
Polishing the action a bit does the rest.

Amen to that! I attack each and every "point of friction" within the lockwork on both, the cylinder frame and the lockwork components that ride along inside the receiver. It doesn't take much work to slick up things.

I do NOT swap to softer mainsprings. JMHO, not the way to go. I will slightly bend the two legs on the New Model lines trigger spring. Old Models I usually don't touch the coil trigger spring but will "detail" where it rides in the gun's receiver.

Patience is the key word here. Take it easy. Test your work very frequently.

JMHO,
flatgate
 
Hi Joe,
A fine Arkansas sharpening stone is the professional way. But 1500 followed by 2000 grit paper on a hard (steel or glass) perfectly flat surface will do. Stay away from Dremel and other power tools. Retain all original angles when polishing critical surfaces like the trigger sear. Magnifying glasses and excellent light are a must to see your progress! If you don't have gunsmith glasses, you can get the 5 power specs at the drugstore for $2.

Look at all contact surfaces for evidence of the factory machine marks and focus on polishing those out. Doing a used gun is an advantage because you can see the spots where the parts rub together and don't take off any more metal than absolutely needed to get the surfaces smooth. Also the two pins that the hammer, trigger and cylinder bolt ride on.

Unhooking the trigger spring legs can leave them rubbing on the main spring; bending and re-hooking them or replacing is better.
Have fun,
 
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