If you can get those 2 screws out

[Mobuck]

the job doesn't take long.
I decided today was start day(since I'm not at all sure most of my projects will be finished in a single day anymore)on changing transmission oil and filter on my work pickup. I've had the parts for 2 months but was hoping for help that didn't happen. Today's cool(er) than it's been for weeks so I'm into it now.
Utoob video says it can be done IF a bracket held in place by a pair of metric hex head screws is removed. Also indicated if you can remove those screws, you probably should go buy some lottery tickets since it's YOUR LUCKY DAY. Well, I couldn't loosen the screws and didn't want to bugger the heads so now it's plan B.
Plan B says "lower the exhaust crossover" like it's opening a can of peas--SURE. I started @ 8:30 and it was 10:40 when I came back to the house for a break. It took that long to "lower the exhaust crossover". Six nuts hold the exhaust pipes to the manifolds. One came loose easily. Two more loosened after the first use of the acetylene torch. Two more required 3-4 applications of heat and penetrating oil. And NUMBER SIX (which of course was the hardest to access) got toasty red 7 or 8 times before it gave up.
On the plus side, I didn't set the pickup afire or twist the bolt off in the exhaust manifold. Wait , let me go check that first part of the statement. Nope, no fire.
After my coffee break, I'm going to actually start with the transmission oil and filter. This is disgusting, I've changed entire transmissions in less time than this. In any case, it's still better than what I saw when I crawled under Grouch Attack's new(er) SUV thing-a-ma-bob last week to change motor oil. It looked like something the Grandkids built from LEGO's (only aluminum)--everything is bolted, stacked, or tied to something else.
I hope you guys enjoyed the story as I intended it for entertainment.

 

[Dave P.]

While you're under there calmly talking to it and thinking kind
thoughts about design engineers..........
I seem to remember it's a GM truck from the mid 2000s, if this is
correct you might want to check the trans cooler lines where they
run up along the frame toward the radiator.
They are almost as famous for rusting as the crappy brake lines!
Dave

 

[Robb Barnes]

Mobuck, you are a braver man than I am! I learned a LONG time ago that unless it changing something on my old 1956 Chevrolet with the 235 straight six motor and an engine compartment I could camp in, I am not going to touch it. Knowing my luck I'd mess something up and have to have the rig towed to a garage so I just save the towing expense and drive it to a guy who specializes in auto mechanic work. I don't have many homeowners who clean out their own septic tanks like my company does so I figure I should take my own advice and let others handle the car stuff.

In fact this is exactly what I told the OSHA inspectors a few years ago when they came for a surprise inspection at the shop. They asked where all my fluid supplies such as oil, etc were and I told them the exact same thing. I pay people who know what they are doing to work on my pump trucks and they pay me to work on their septic tanks. If you want to find oil etc, go see my mechanic! They were pretty surprised because I guess most small businesses like mine do their own maintenance or mechanic work.

 

[reuben_j_cogburn]

To many things designed by 12 year college men, who never had to work on their own stuff......

 

[Paul B]

There was a good reason I put out $1,500 for a 7 year 70,000 mile warranty when I bought my new truck. When I looked under the hood, thought you'd damn near have to remove the engine just to change the spark plugs. :shock: Free maintenance for life and if anything major happens let Ford worry about it. I won't. 8)
Paul B.

 

[K1500]

Duramax/Allison the trans fluid/filter change is easier than the oil change. Zero things in the way. Now, some other things on that motor.....I don't want to think about.

 

[Mobuck]

"Duramax/Allison the trans fluid/filter change is easier than the oil change. "

I see no reason why ALL automatic transmissions don't have a filter in the cooler line.
The job is finished and the tools put away. I figure I made my regular wage doing the maintenance even though it's all I'll get done today besides my chores. I've had plenty of experience with the way most "shops" do jobs like this and I'm not a fan of that so I do as much as I can my self.

 

[Galaxiedan]

Just spent 4 hours getting one king pin removed on my '30 model A, drivers side was fused into the axle. Torch, air hammer, sawzall, and lots of penetrating fluid. Passenger side came out by hand in 5 mins tops.

 

[contender]

This reminds me of my mantra.
"One of these days,,, I'll be in a social situation & I'll ask a guy; "What do you do for a living?" to which he replies; "I'm an automotive engineer." And when the silly SOB wakes up in the hospital,, I'll be there to show him what happened,, AGAIN!!!"

(It actually happened once,, but while I was in the absolute worst place,, in Las Vegas, at a blackjack table. I told that engineer my mantra,, and he was VERY lucky, as he got to walk away."

 

[Mobuck]

It does seem strange that after all these years, no one has figured out that there's no need for that filter to be INSIDE the transmission pan or that transmission pans NEED a drain plug. It's almost like a premeditated recipe for expensive maintenance at some later time.
Anyhoo, it's done and I'm good for 3-4 years at which time someone else may have the privilege of gaining this mechanical experience.

 

[Mega Twin]

This reminds me of my mantra.
"One of these days,,, I'll be in a social situation & I'll ask a guy; "What do you do for a living?" to which he replies; "I'm an automotive engineer." And when the silly SOB wakes up in the hospital,, I'll be there to show him what happened,, AGAIN!!!"

(It actually happened once,, but while I was in the absolute worst place,, in Las Vegas, at a blackjack table. I told that engineer my mantra,, and he was VERY lucky, as he got to walk away."

You have to take into consideration that the ones that engineer the mechanical aspects of a vehicle have to make things fit and work after an arteest(aka design team flake)draws a design that the marketing team deems sellable.

 

[Johnnu2]

It's become sadly evident to me that the car companies are doing their best to a) make maintenance work very difficult and b) enhancing their revenue by forcing even the more skilled back-yard mechanic into their very less than skilled dealership service areas. After having the FREE two year Toyota maintenance (read oil changes) on my Camry, I got under for the first DIY oil change last week. I had it on a lift and still had to use a BREAKER BAR to loosen the FILTER cap.... yup the plastic cap. They are butchers. If you really want to get scared, go look for an auto-transmission dip stick. I found a u-tube video on how to check the trans level on my Camry.... it's almost 40 minutes long and the 'professor' required about $400 worth of specialty equipment. It's gonna be less expensive to buy a new car every 4 years than do normal maintenance. Sadly, J.

 

[mhblaw]

I have a deal with my mechanic, my plumber and my electrician; they don't practice law and I don't do their kind of work.

 

[Mobuck]

"I have a deal with my mechanic, my plumber and my electrician; they don't practice law and I don't do their kind of work."

Sounds like my brother in law except he's a banker. He made a comment about me having a different "skill set" than he(in the context that he was superior because he didn't "get dirty") and before I could stop, I blurted out "Yes, I actually know how to do things beyond grubbing for pennies".
I've done some of nearly everything in my life except fly an airplane or helicopter. It's easier to list the things I haven't done than what I have done and I plan to continue to do as much for myself as my age and health will allow. The problem I find most often is the guy I hire isn't as qualified as I and I'm not satisfied with poor work(especially if I'm overcharged for it).

 

[DGW1949]

It does seem strange that after all these years, no one has figured out that there's no need for that filter to be INSIDE the transmission pan or that transmission pans NEED a drain plug. It's almost like a premeditated recipe for expensive maintenance at some later time.
Anyhoo, it's done and I'm good for 3-4 years at which time someone else may have the privilege of gaining this mechanical experience.

The reason for the filter being where it is is because most of the contaminants originate from within the transmission, and a lot of it goes right to the pan. That's also why there's a magnet in there...to catch the wear metals.
Not saying that a secondary (inline) filter wouldn't help because it certainly would. What it won't do though, is prevent contaminants from being picked up and pumped through the transmission/converter/cooler to start with.
A drain plug would certainly make draining the pan a lot easier/cleaner job...but...you'd still need to remove it in order to access the factory filter, magnet, and to be able to wash all that sludgy-stuff out of the bottom of the pan itself. Otherwise, the whole job wouldn't be getting done.

DGW

 

[Colonialgirl]

The Volvo Owners Forum had a simple answer on "How to change your transmission fluid".
1. Run a hose down the Trans Dip stick tube and suck out as much fluid as you can.
2. Measure how much you sucked out and pour that amount of NEW fluid down the tube.
3. After driving for approx 100 miles , repeat procedures 1 & 2.
4. Drive another 100 miles and repeat procedures 1 & 2 again.
5. CONGRATULATIONS !! You have now replaced all the old transmission fluid including that in the torque converter.

 

[Mobuck]

"you'd still need to remove it in order to access the factory filter, magnet, and to be able to wash all that sludgy-stuff out of the bottom of the pan itself. Otherwise, the whole job wouldn't be getting done."

and then you have this:

The Volvo Owners Forum had a simple answer on "How to change your transmission fluid".
1. Run a hose down the Trans Dip stick tube and suck out as much fluid as you can.
2. Measure how much you sucked out and pour that amount of NEW fluid down the tube.
3. After driving for approx 100 miles , repeat procedures 1 & 2.
4. Drive another 100 miles and repeat procedures 1 & 2 again.
5. CONGRATULATIONS !! You have now replaced all the old transmission fluid including that in the torque converter.

sort of hard to say which way is best. It seems a bit odd that the super stout and long life Allison seems to be fine with an external filter and pan drain plug. One design versus another.