Gunslick for Lubricant
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CLAYPOOL
Single-Sixer
YES THERE IS....Years ago I lubed a trigger on a Model 12 pump. Was out hunting way out from town with hospital (10 Miles). 15 years old. Rabbit jumped and ran. Pulled up and pulled trigger. CLICK looked at it, THEN TURNED and started to point down the line of my nephew's and MOVED the pump. BLAM Luckily we practiced GUN SAFETY.. BLOOD and legs would have looked good on the ice we were walking on....
DON'T DO IT -- BUY SOME REAL GUN LUBE.
DON'T DO IT -- BUY SOME REAL GUN LUBE.
PriseDeFer
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2014
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- 450
This is what Ruger says about lubricants in the Vaquero manual:
"To clean the revolver after firing:
1. Remove the cylinder as described on p. 16.
2. Clean the barrel from the muzzle by running a cleaning rod with a solvent
coated patch through the bore several times. A bronze wire brush, of a size
appropriate to the bore size, attached to the cleaning rod should then be
pushed the full length of the bore several times.
3. Again swab the bore with a solvent coated patch. Then wipe the rod clean
and, using a dry patch, swab the bore until it is clean.
4. Repeat the above procedure for each of the six chambers.
5. Run a lightly oiled patch through the bore and each chamber.
The revolver’s internal mechanism can be lubricated without disassembly. A few
drops of light oil recommended as suitable for firearms, applied periodically
about the various frame openings, will work its way into the mechanism parts.
The exterior of the revolver should be cleaned with a solvent and then wiped with
an oily cloth"
They didn't mention the cylinder pin, guess that's up to us.
"To clean the revolver after firing:
1. Remove the cylinder as described on p. 16.
2. Clean the barrel from the muzzle by running a cleaning rod with a solvent
coated patch through the bore several times. A bronze wire brush, of a size
appropriate to the bore size, attached to the cleaning rod should then be
pushed the full length of the bore several times.
3. Again swab the bore with a solvent coated patch. Then wipe the rod clean
and, using a dry patch, swab the bore until it is clean.
4. Repeat the above procedure for each of the six chambers.
5. Run a lightly oiled patch through the bore and each chamber.
The revolver’s internal mechanism can be lubricated without disassembly. A few
drops of light oil recommended as suitable for firearms, applied periodically
about the various frame openings, will work its way into the mechanism parts.
The exterior of the revolver should be cleaned with a solvent and then wiped with
an oily cloth"
They didn't mention the cylinder pin, guess that's up to us.
Previously, I disassembled the gun (sp101) and put "Gunslick" on every moving part I saw. I'm now wondering if I should dis-assemble it, clean it with brake parts cleaner, and do the "oil" thing described in the manual? One concern I have is that the "Gunslick" will turn "pasty" and actually cause more friction to the gun internals?
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
I use Rem oil on my Ruger handguns. It will creep into the innards and keep them operating nicely as well as prevent rust.
When you mention oil,you will get a bunch of opinions,everything from baby oil to used motor oil has and is being used. Use what you are comfortable with.
I always thought gun slick was too thick and stiff to be used in a gun. It is a grease with graphite mixed into it. Graphite is a very fine abrasive and will in time smooth up a part. I guess one could use it as an aid to seat together mating parts but for general use or hunting in cold weather I would not want it in my gun. Many reports of misfires in cold weather have been blamed on Gun Slick. True or not? I don't want to be the one that finds out the hard way.
When you mention oil,you will get a bunch of opinions,everything from baby oil to used motor oil has and is being used. Use what you are comfortable with.
I always thought gun slick was too thick and stiff to be used in a gun. It is a grease with graphite mixed into it. Graphite is a very fine abrasive and will in time smooth up a part. I guess one could use it as an aid to seat together mating parts but for general use or hunting in cold weather I would not want it in my gun. Many reports of misfires in cold weather have been blamed on Gun Slick. True or not? I don't want to be the one that finds out the hard way.
Bearcat
Blackhawk
Chuck 100 yd said:
Chuck is right. You never want Gunslick to get "old or cold". I have only used it on slide barrel contact areas of semi-autos where it does its job during long range sessions and then can be wiped off when the firearm is cleaned, oiled and put up for storage.
steve8261948
Single-Sixer
I question this? Sounds like a mechanical or ammunition problem to me?CLAYPOOL said:
Steve
Bucks Owin
Hunter
steve8261948 said:
The Model 12 (and 97 I believe) Winnie is quite unique among pump shotguns in that it can be "slam fired". That means the trigger can be held back and it will fire every time the action is cycled. Perhaps it wasn't quite locked in battery until you "moved the pump"...(with trigger held back)
Back in the day, there were a couple Winchester exhibition shooters who could "outrace" a semiauto with a M-12. Ad Topperwein comes to mind...
Chuck 100 yd said:
Graphite is NOT an abrasive when used to lube steel.... in fact, it is not even abrasive to aluminum. Offhand, I can't think of any common material, other than plastic, used in firearms that's softer than graphite.
I've used gunslick for over 50 years, and have yet to see any problems with it.... and that includes temperatures well below zero. Any sliding surface or pin subjected to just a few degrees of rotation are ideally suited to its use. A dab on the sear helps the trigger pull as well.
Bucks Owin said:
I knew the Ithaca 37 could do that but didn't know the model 12 would too.
------
As far as gunslick I've never had a problem with it. My Dad used it for many years and never had a problem with it.
FYI - Graphite is used as a lube in locks and when neck sizing rifle brass. Also used to put it in the open bearings on kids skates many years ago to lube them.
Another key word in CLAYPOOL's story was "ice" they were walking on. How many people put any oil on a shotgun for a December S.D. pheasant hunt just before Christmas?
RUFFBIRD
Blackhawk
I too use gunslick, & like the stuff as a lubricant. Just don't overdo it, it is dirty staining stuff.....
There is lots of good grease out there these days to choose from!
There is lots of good grease out there these days to choose from!
jgt
Buckeye
I have been using it for fifty years. It is not necessary to gob a lot of it on though. I put some on an old T-shirt over my finger and rub it on a large part of the gun before putting that spot on internal parts for lube. A fine coat is all that is needed. The rest is used on the outside as a protective coating against rust. I have not had a problem with rust since I started using it. Today, the biggest problem I have is finding it to purchase. When I do find it, I buy all I can get.
powder smoke
Hawkeye
Lube needs to be used sparingly no matter what you are using.
Excessive lube will attack dirt powder residue. Clean litely lube.
I believe the vast majority of gun lubes are OK. ps
Excessive lube will attack dirt powder residue. Clean litely lube.
I believe the vast majority of gun lubes are OK. ps
Funny, I've used gunslick for years without any problems. Then again, I don't keep guns clean for very long. :mrgreen:
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