Grip screw pull through

Gutshot

Single-Sixer
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Jun 14, 2006
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10 or so years ago I purchased a 3 screw 357 Blackhawk from Gunbroker. The gun was in overall great shape and shoots fine. But what I found on my first inspection is that the grip screw had been over tightened and the the escutcheon had been all but completely pulled though the grip panel. I replaced the grip panels with others I had on hand but now would like to know if there is a way the fix the original grip panel?

Thank you for any advice

Jeff
 
Thread the grip screw into the eschuteon and gently tap it out put a dab of epoxy in the hole and tap it back in to the proper depth. Remove the screw and let the epoxy set up. Good to go
 
I have repaired many cracked & broken grips from the inside. If the break isn't complete,, I use a small bird feather to gently add glue into the cracks of the wood. I then thread the screw into it, from the outside. I pull it as gently as I can w/o damaging it further,, and press it all together. I run the screw in & out a few times, cleaning any glue out of the threads before it sets up. Then, I add painters tape over the inside and place the whole affair in a clamp. Once set,,, I peel the tape off.

I also use nylon spacer sleeves over the screw from the inside to prevent this from happening again. I add the spacers to all my grips on all my guns too.
 
I thought I was the only one who knew about using bird feathers. :) It also helps to heat the wood in your oven to expend any cracks before applying the glue/epoxy. Note that the spacers have to be trimmed to a length specific to the grip frame and panels.

John
 
simply squeeze in some GOOD wood glue, put a piece of wax paper on the back ( flat side) and a cushion ,pad, piece of leather, on the outside and in the jaws of a SMOOTH jaw vise, squeeze it all back into place,,,,let dry,,,,voila,,,,,,, clean out the hole of the escutcheon 8) :roll: :wink:
 
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Caryc taught us a number of years ago to use readily available spacers from the hardware or home supply stores. The 1/2 inch cabinet handle spacers are the correct size. I bought a few dozen and all my Old Model Blackhawks get them. I understand the New Model gripframes are slightly narrower. Buy the corresponding shorter spacers that are the same length as the grip frame is wide. Or file down a 1/2 inch spacer until it allows the panels to meet the sides of the grip frame. This should eliminate the situation Gutshot and others (me included) have had with grip panels that cracked from being over-tightened.
 
Colonel Daddy said:
Caryc taught us a number of years ago to use readily available spacers from the hardware or home supply stores. The 1/2 inch cabinet handle spacers are the correct size. I bought a few dozen and all my Old Model Blackhawks get them. I understand the New Model gripframes are slightly narrower. Buy the corresponding shorter spacers that are the same length as the grip frame is wide. Or file down a 1/2 inch spacer until it allows the panels to meet the sides of the grip frame. This should eliminate the situation Gutshot and others (me included) have had with grip panels that cracked from being over-tightened.

Thanks CD,

The 1/2" and 7/16" aluminum spacers are both available at McMasters.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Just do a search on unthreaded aluminum spacer. You want a #6 screw size spacer in 1/2" or 7/16" length. These are 1/4" O.D.

This is the actual page at McMasters.

https://www.mcmaster.com/unthreaded-aluminum-spacers

It's the new flattops that have the new steel XR3 grip frames that are 7/16" in width.
 
When I've done this, I've put a little grease on the screw before running it into the escutcheon just to be sure the glue doesn't lock the screw in place. I leave the screw in til the glue dries and the grease lets me back it out easily.
 
Gutshot said:
I found on my first inspection is that the grip screw had been over tightened and the the escutcheon had been all but completely pulled though the grip panel.

I would like to know if there is a way the fix the original grip panel?


Yes - something I routinely do with almost every revolver I acquire, as soon as I get my paws on it: Support the wood from the inside.

1) As stated above, remove the damaged grip panel(s), spread a tiny bit of wood glue into/around the split on the inside of the panel, then gently press it back into place from the inside surface. (let the adhesive dry)

2) Measure the width of the grip frame accurately at it's midsection near the screw.

3) Make a hollow metal spacer from aluminum tubing & cut it to the same length as the grip frame width.

4) Pass the spacer crosswise through the center of the grip frame & check that it doesn't interfere with either the mainspring action or the grip frame internal webbing (cast grip frames).

5) re-assemble the grip panel to the grip frame, ensuring that the grip screw passes through the ferrule you made.

.
 
pete44ru said:
Gutshot said:
I found on my first inspection is that the grip screw had been over tightened and the the escutcheon had been all but completely pulled though the grip panel.

I would like to know if there is a way the fix the original grip panel?


Yes - something I routinely do with almost every revolver I acquire, as soon as I get my paws on it: Support the wood from the inside.

1) As stated above, remove the damaged grip panel(s), spread a tiny bit of wood glue into/around the split on the inside of the panel, then gently press it back into place from the inside surface. (let the adhesive dry)

2) Measure the width of the grip frame accurately at it's midsection near the screw.

3) Make a hollow metal spacer from aluminum tubing & cut it to the same length as the grip frame width.

4) Pass the spacer crosswise through the center of the grip frame & check that it doesn't interfere with either the mainspring action or the grip frame internal webbing (cast grip frames).

5) re-assemble the grip panel to the grip frame, ensuring that the grip screw passes through the ferrule you made.

.

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