Finally restored. MkI Target with muzzle brake

All of America thanks you for your service; Ice Tea.
Picking through email notes from this forum… , I found a comment posted saying, “ A tin can shim”..
Boy better have been referring to squeezing in sheet metal instead of shimming the lug.
Otherwise.. He has a high school degree in shop and not from M.I.T.

As moderator LCP, told me,, Dial It back. They don’t know.

Was trying to help!

My engineer, one hour ago….

Hope to be friends with all.
Nick
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^^^^^
In theory… An excellent option, as far as re-positioning of metal. However.., With the location of the stud and surrounding sheetmetal, that would make it difficult.
However, using a pointed center punch in numerous places a top of the lug to displace and raise the surface , could very well suffice as compared to one flat and elated plane, elated.
…Or… My boy was jus’ sayin’.. Beat the dang barrel back with a mallet!!
Either way..He seems ok, to me🙂
 
Shims do work, as does epoxy. A more permanent repair would be welding up the lug and reshaping, but that is really work intensive and not easy to do. The cheaper, faster way would be a thin metal shim and super glue/epoxy to the lug.
It does work, until it doesn't. Every time you disassemble and then reassemble, it puts wear on the shim.
Best option? Don't clean your MkI LOL
 
I had to replace the window regulator in my Kia SUV. I can do this one of two ways:
1) Take everything apart, and learn as I go. Being extra careful not to break or screw anything up.

2) Watch a YouTube video of someone else replacing the same regulator, and take notes. No mistakes, no problems.

I love YouTube and Google searches. In the good ole days we would go to the library, find a Motor Manual (remember those?), take notes, or photocopy the pages, then drive home and and fix the car.
Now I can just watch a video as I'm working on the car LOL.
 
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Shims do work, as does epoxy. A more permanent repair would be welding up the lug and reshaping, but that is really work intensive and not easy to do. The cheaper, faster way would be a thin metal shim and super glue/epoxy to the lug.
It does work, until it doesn't. Every time you disassemble and then reassemble, it puts wear on the shim.
Best option? Don't clean your MkI LOL
.005 shim stock induction welded or bolded to top of lug, smoothed to fit.
I will be a permanent solution.
My engineer has been laughing passing the time with me about it.
He has now found a place to crash for the night.
 
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Yeah,, I am rough but after 40 yrs. of.. Umhuhh. Yeahuh. No! It is this!! , Getting some explanation is a step for me.
My rough edges will smooth.
Arizona…, I will work on your taste in music later.. One step at a time.
 
I had to replace the window regulator in my Kia SUV. I can do this one of two ways:
1) Take everything apart, and learn as I go. Being extra careful not to break or screw anything up.

2) Watch a YouTube video of someone else replacing the same regulator, and take notes. No mistakes, no problems.

I love YouTube and Google searches. In the good ole days we would go to the library, find a Motor Manual (remember those?), take notes, or photocopy the pages, then drive home and and fix the car.
Now I can just watch a video as I'm working on the car LOL.
Well.. Homefry.., Seems like for an automotive D.I.Y.er, You have an appropriate plan of attack.
**** I will say that some inexpensive vehicles, much like inexpensive guns, have fitment issues, especially once taken apart.
I highly recommend NOT: crunching, bending, creasing SHEET METAL to make a fitment. Walk away, take a breather.. JUST do not do that. ***
 
OuterBanks15 I have worked on everything from 500K rpm dental hand pieces to 3516 Caterpillar V16 4160v generator sets and all manners of steam equipment from dental autoclaves to high pressure boilers burning 15 gallons a minute of Bunker C oil.
I would have fixed ArizonaTea123's pistol in the same way he did. The little bit that he bent the metal won't harm it. It ain't like he is going to put it in a vise every day and repeat the process again.
 
While the Kia may be considered by some to be "inexpensive", it is easy and straightforward to work on.
Expensive vehicles, such as Maserati and BMW/ Mercedes, Aston Martin, are absolute nightmares to service, many requiring specialized tools that are only found at the dealership.
If you have ever done an oil change in a vehicle running a dry sump system you would understand this.
If you've ever owned a British vehicle you would think that British engineers are drug addicts. 😂🤬
 
While the Kia may be considered by some to be "inexpensive", it is easy and straightforward to work on.
Expensive vehicles, such as Maserati and BMW/ Mercedes, Aston Martin, are absolute nightmares to service, many requiring specialized tools that are only found at the dealership.
If you have ever done an oil change in a vehicle running a dry sump system you would understand this.
If you've ever owned a British vehicle you would think that British engineers are drug addicts. 😂🤬
Speaking of British vehicles…if you don’t have a case of this on hand you’re in big trouble.

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If you've ever owned a British vehicle you would think that British engineers are drug addicts. 😂🤬

FACT.

As most of you know I worked for Ford. At one point I was calibrating some of the first U.S. cars specifically for China. For months I would get questions "did you...?" and it was always something basic that is an initial requirement we always do. Then I found out Ford had been shipping U.K. cars to China for a couple years and what we considered a basic requirement was not done in the U.K. and therefore not in the China builds. Took a long time time to get them to trust we actually did it. About that same time we (U.S.) stationed a guy in China just to clean up all the U.K. calibrations.
 
.....and thats why I was told many years ago , that so many machinists make lousy gunsmiths, and leave the design and engineering to the experts, gee and some of the guys who said this were graduates of various gunsmith ,trade schools like Trinidad, in Colorado..........I prefer to look back and actually see just how and why so few folks ( wanted to say guys,but) anyway so few turned out the likes of WM Ruger, who was quite good at what he did , how he did , and at low cost, pricing,,,he ticked off many of the "pros" ( big boys) back in the day and I know for a fact, as one of my mentors, Dan Wesson, the last of the S&W ,back when they sold out to Bangor Punta, I believe 1966? and he told me one evening sitting down at the old school house in Monson,Mass ,mid 1970's, how he admired just how Bill Ruger thought, and did things, simple and cost efficient , and his coming up with the "casting" of the parts,,,,good stuff, cheap and easy and easy to work on, simple in fact, no need to over engineer or over think,,,,,,so Teal, you done good and to me totally acceptable, and yes we too did all the easy simple quick fixes, ( try and weld up any work when you are out at the range or on a hunting trip, out of town, whatever)................
...and yes ,even simple stuff still has to come out of the minnd,head and "seeing" what they saw ,, and the best example is BilI Ruger coming up with the early RST-4 , made from the basis of a hand operated crank drill, and combine with the attributes and functions of such as Jap Nambos, Walther P-38 and the German Luger and in a 22 caliber and it worked...............I rest my case, and those days are GONE.....
sorry we all ran off with your OP Teal, talk about " thread drift"........:cool::rolleyes:;)
 
It’s just not something I would do. The sheetmetal is not intended to do that.
To each his own.
If induction welding shim stock to the mounting lug is not a locally available service, using JB-Weld of even Lok-Tite Flange Locker with clamping the shim stock to the lug until cured are great alternatives.

FWIW, I've used aluminum shims for more than a few things over the years, and it's probably a result of learning (at the 'School of Hard Knocks' ;^) what might be Rule #1 of home gunsmithin', which is:

Always modify the cheaper or easier to replace part.

Nice thing about aluminum shims is, they're pretty cheap & easy to replace! Another rule I learned at the same school:

Know your limitations.

One of my limitations is an apparent inability to keep Murphy and his law out of my work shop! So I often start with something at the conservative end of the spectrum, go slow, and try to spot any issues before safety is compromised (or an expensive part gets ruined ;^).

Lots of folks here are light years ahead of me, and more power to 'em! As you said, "To each his own!"
:-)
 
Speaking of British vehicles…if you don’t have a case of this on hand you’re in big trouble.

View attachment 99529
Yes, Called Di-Electric grease… For DECADES, They used NONE!!
My parents owned 2 , Series 3 88 inch wheelbase - ( because they were “ cute” ) and a Range Rover as a backup to them. Absolutely nothing but disasters between Lucas and Ghirling Hydraulics.
 
Frickin’ uncivilized in this joint, much like the docks in the old country; of yours.
Glad to meet you mates on my way out.
I am Alsace Lorraine in heritage.
We got here way way way early. We have fought every war since the revolution. We have 8 loving with Ivey League degrees.

Carry on your passion for the sport.
 
Arizona,
First had you pegged from being from there by user name but did not care. You had a nice piece and expressed concern.
I offered advice and you went rogue.
It appearance, worked. I followed up.
You were and are a gentleman in a group.
I think you are English, in England; I could be wrong but you have a fine temperament and exemplary manners ;
As displayed to me, while inexcusable and embarrassing behavior of some Americans unfolded on this Ruger forum; Owned by VerticalScope and it’s stock holders!
Keep us updated on the window regulator.
No scratching of paint or CRUTCHING of metal, please.
 
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