Ever replace a heater core?

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graygun

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Junction,Tx
I have,about 40 yrs ago on a '71 Valiant.

Look at this nightmare (short vid).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7KGvrnq3gs
 
I've done a lot of heater core replacements. Many are exactly like depicted in the video. Others are not so bad. The easiest I know of were the 80's era Ford Bronco and F-series trucks. Almost anyone could do one of those in less than an hour.
Either way though, there's a couple of aspects to the job which never vary...meaning that one should never buy a replacement heater core based on price-shopping, because there is a distinct difference in a cheap heater core and a 'premium' heater core. Plus, it pays to stop and think about why the original core failed, which most usually comes down to rot. And rot usually comes down to a lack of cooling system maintenance (and all that that implies)...point there being that if that issue isn't also addressed, you're probably going to be seeing other cooling system related failures in the not too distant future...or you might-well be doing the job over again after the warranty on your shiny-new heater core has expired.

DGW
 
Notice the bypass hose from the manifold to the water pump outlet. It is there for a reason. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO way am I going to change the heater core. :( Ya don't need heat in Texas. Easier to put on more clothes :wink: :wink:



 
I've done a bunch of heater cores myself and they are quite often as shown. The one that sticks out in my mind is my first 80's era Taurus. As shown you have to remove the whole instrument panel. If you follow the shop manual it has you remove everything to drop the instrument panel except for one last screw. It just happens to be by the gas pedal. So while holding the complete instrument panel in the air with one arm you have to unscrew and remove this little screw all way under the panel at the floor. To add to this fine mess you have already separated the steering column from the dash so it is loose and flopping on the drivers seat too. Basically exactly in line with where you need to be. That quickly became the FIRST screw removed when doing those.
 
DGW1949 said:
Plus, it pays to stop and think about why the original core failed, which
most usually comes down to rot. And rot usually comes down to a lack
of cooling system maintenance ...
Based on my personal experience, this is a VERY accurate summary!

Phrased another way, treat the cause and not the symptom. :D
 
Isuzu Stylus also was a "dash removal". No need to get into the new combination of words used. :twisted: Engineers should be made to actually perform the operation prior to making any design a permanent way to fix something.
 
Enigma said:
Fox Mike said:
Engineers should be made to actually perform the operation prior to making any design a permanent way to fix something.

Said every mechanic/maintainer, ever. :lol:

I fully agree!
When the Taurus was first developed Ford was proud of the fact that they brought mechanics in to work with the engineers to make maintenance easier. Gotta remember Ford's job 1 is to make a car as easy and cheap as possible to build. It's the dealers job/income to maintain it.
 
I replaced heat core on my '97 F 150 By time I could get to core, steering wheel was all that was left to dash. Really no reason to make such hard access. Outside, under hood on my 1980 International Scout. Easy 30 min task.
 
I replaced the heater core in my '98 Volvo S-70; Manual had you taking the WHOLE dash apart; Volvo Owners forum showed how to do it removing the glove compartment and sides of the center console and VIOLA !! there is the case holding the heater core disconnect a couple of hoses, open the bottom, slide out the old and in with the new. A couple of hours and sore muscles from awkward positions and the job is DONE>
 
Chev Fix: Back in the "DAY" I would cut the tin on the inside fender liner and fold down. That let you get to one of the bottom nuts on the studs that came out around the heater box cover easier . Then when over bend metal back up. cars were more economical back then. You could tar it also because the roof tar was fibered (SP) and would stay fairly well too.I didn't bother because it drained any water or whatever out the bottom of the liner...
 
Is the core leaking or no heat because of a block. If you undo the heater hoses in the firewall and clamp on a garden hose and let er rip for 5 minutes or so many times it will unblock. Worked for me on my Blazer.. for once where there was no heat now I have plenty just from the hose procedure
 
golferboy426 said:
Is the core leaking or no heat because of a block. If you undo the heater hoses in the firewall and clamp on a garden hose and let er rip for 5 minutes or so many times it will unblock. Worked for me on my Blazer.. for once where there was no heat now I have plenty just from the hose procedure

I did the same thing on a 98 Jeep Cherokee. Worked great and three years later I still have lots of heat.
 
When I was a youngster,I worked at GM dealerships in the area,mainly pontiac,and Gmc.
When a 1990 Camaro came in with a heater core leak,after I had started working at a Chevy dealer,all the senior techs turned down the job,so the service manager tasked it to me,saying it pays 8 hours,so I jumped on it,and had it done in less than 2 hours.
Then all the senior techs griped because I was getting the gravy jobs! :mrgreen:
 
2001 Chevy Silverado https://imgur.com/a/PwcUN[img]
Did my 01 Chevy. A PIA!
 
Bull Barrel said:
Be careful using a garden hose. Too much pressure can damage the core.
Funny this topic came up. I am going to the mechanic today to get an estimate to replace tge leaky core on my 92 Dakota.

While it's there, you might want to ask him to raise it up in the air and look for signs of leaky/seeping freeze plugs because once 'the rot' starts, ya never know what else might be effected, or where it might show up next.

DGW
 

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