Dobetown
Bearcat
Since I can't find my Ruger for Dummies, or anything else today. Whats the offical word on dry firing Ruger rimfires. 10/22 Mk2 77/22 or Single six?
Thanks
Thanks
Dry firing rimfires
- Thread starter Dobetown
- Start date
contender
Ruger Guru
Well, in MK series, the manuels say to pull the trigger for disassembly. If you are planning on dryfiring for practice, then snap-caps are a must.
The 10/22s and all the Ruger .22 autopistols are supposedly okay for drysnapping. Not sure about the Single Six or 77/22.
I think you can read the owners manuals for all Rugers online. Maybe they can give you some guidance.
I think you can read the owners manuals for all Rugers online. Maybe they can give you some guidance.
mattsbox99
Hunter
All Rugers are safe to dryfire, straight from Ruger and in all their manuals. Snap caps can mushroom over the head and get jammed in there. I would use the plastic ones if I were to use them.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Coop
Blackhawk
I just pulled the Ruger manuals for my 1999 Single Six revolver , my 1995 and 1999 Mark II pistols, and my 1995 10/22 rifle. Each manual clearly states these firearms can be safely dry-fired.
However, I do not dry-fire them, or any of my other rimfire firearms.
Coop
However, I do not dry-fire them, or any of my other rimfire firearms.
Coop
flatgate
Hawkeye
I've dry fired my rimfire revolvers a lot. I only have Ruger Single-Sixes in OM and NM designs.
I've NEVER seen any "ill effects".
flatgate
I've NEVER seen any "ill effects".
flatgate
I've seen both ends of the spectrum in working rimfires for 45 + years. Most of the damage I have seen is with the older low carbon steel barrels. With harder firing pins and a lot of dry firing, either chips or divots (peening) can and does develope. The same with some of the cheaper European rimfires. With good modern alloy steel barrels, I have seen broken firing pins but very little damage around the chamber edges. Some scratching or marking. I suspect most of the broken firing pins occured because of poor heat treatment or design. If the manufacturer says it's ok, then I would tend to go with it as "they" know the metalurgy of their components!......................Dick :wink:
JumpmasterC
Single-Sixer
I dunno whether it is recommended or not, but I have been dry firing my 10/22 for over 20 years, replaced the stock a few times (by choice) and changed the stock barrel out to a .920 one (also by choice), put thousands of rounds through it & have NEVER had a single problem with it! 
In the Rugers, got little to do with the metal. I know that in the MKs and the 10/22, the firing pin is not long enough to hit the chamber, it's positively stopped just before it touches. And the FP is built strong enough that the tip won't go flying off from inertia, which is another way firing pins can break (and not just RF ones, either).Pinecone said:
Once a guy brought me a stainless MK II that he said was "jamming." Didn't take long to find the cause, a big burr in the chamber thrown up by the firing pin. I took it apart to fix that and discovered that there was no FP stop pin in the bolt! I was about to order one when something shiny in the box caught my eye--yep, there it was! It had fallen out when the guy had the gun apart for cleaning and he didn't notice it. "I always wondered what that pin thing was for" he told me later. I filed the burr out of his chamber and he told me the gun ran 100% again!
I keep my revolvers loaded with spent cases. I always check before doing anything else, no matter that I am the ONLY person that ever picks them up, just to make sure they all have firing pin dimples.
I;m with 'Pinecone' have seen it all, (and still MORE to come??) and done LOTS of repair,service ( warrenty service for High Standard back in the late 70's ,early 80's), but the question was as to "Rugers"...well call me old fashioned,but I've seen the parts break, in any and ALL models of Ruger 22 rimfires, and we've refinished countless cylinders for 22s and one can 'see" the dimples dings and divots and often the notch cut into the edge of the chambers ....soooo, I tell folks NOT too, or like 'contender' says when "lowering the hammer on an empty Ruger, they call it dry firing..' then you gotta do it...here is a picture of a cyinder we recently got in and this is amoung dozens and dozens we 've had and had to rechamber or clean out the "rim " area.........
I recall from years ago, something in the Bible about "pounding ones swords into plowshares..." well you hammer metal on metal long enough, guess what............ :roll:
( at work the metallurgists called it "work hardening.." metal can become brittle AND break....) 8)
besides, you're talking about "parts" made by people and on any given day did they do their job and do it correctly?? and the heat treat was at the proper specs?? :shock: " $#@^ happens......"
I recall from years ago, something in the Bible about "pounding ones swords into plowshares..." well you hammer metal on metal long enough, guess what............ :roll:
( at work the metallurgists called it "work hardening.." metal can become brittle AND break....) 8)
besides, you're talking about "parts" made by people and on any given day did they do their job and do it correctly?? and the heat treat was at the proper specs?? :shock: " $#@^ happens......"
RG, I'm seeing all kinds of dings there but most of them seem to be in the 10 and 2 o'clock positions of the chambers. Is this a Single Six cylinder? Doesn't the SS firing pin strike at 12 o'clock? What made these dings?rugerguy said:I;m with 'Pinecone' have seen it all, (and still MORE to come??) and done LOTS of repair,service ( warrenty service for High Standard back in the late 70's ,early 80's), but the question was as to "Rugers"...well call me old fashioned,but I've seen the parts break, in any and ALL models of Ruger 22 rimfires, and we've refinished countless cylinders for 22s and one can 'see" the dimples dings and divots and often the notch cut into the edge of the chambers ....soooo, I tell folks NOT too, or like 'contender' says when "lowering the hammer on an empty Ruger, they call it dry firing..' then you gotta do it...here is a picture of a cyinder we recently got in and this is amoung dozens and dozens we 've had and had to rechamber or clean out the "rim " area.........
I recall from years ago, something in the Bible about "pounding ones swords into plowshares..." well you hammer metal on metal long enough, guess what............ :roll:
( at work the metallurgists called it "work hardening.." metal can become brittle AND break....) 8)
besides, you're talking about "parts" made by people and on any given day did they do their job and do it correctly?? and the heat treat was at the proper specs?? :shock: " $#@^ happens......"
the firing pin................wonder how some of these folks make their guns work, how they put their cylinders in, whatever, BUT , they are out there, and we know all too many gunsmiths that keep busy and stay in business because of this....same goes for the semi autos, they pull 'em apart and claim to clean them, and put the bolts back in without the firing pin stop..........people, being people
take a look at any cylinders you may "see" on a table at a gun show, and how many different 'brands' (makes) the same thing, so its NOT uncommon, and keeps the firing pin work trickling in.............
you should have seen the hundred of guns we worked on from High Standard, both autos and revolvers, all 22 caliber, and the cylinders or chambers were "boogered"...may "scrapped" out, as well as rebarreled and /or rechambered...no we never took pictures of any of this stuff back then, NO TIME................no reason too, unless there was an "injury" claim.
They've all come a long way in manufacturing practice, and materisls, and "stuff still happens....."
take a look at any cylinders you may "see" on a table at a gun show, and how many different 'brands' (makes) the same thing, so its NOT uncommon, and keeps the firing pin work trickling in.............
you should have seen the hundred of guns we worked on from High Standard, both autos and revolvers, all 22 caliber, and the cylinders or chambers were "boogered"...may "scrapped" out, as well as rebarreled and /or rechambered...no we never took pictures of any of this stuff back then, NO TIME................no reason too, unless there was an "injury" claim.
They've all come a long way in manufacturing practice, and materisls, and "stuff still happens....."
Richbaker
Blackhawk
The chamber at ~7 o'clock has 3 seperate dings at 3 different positions around the edge, hard to see how the firing pin made all 3 of those dings.... And several others have 1 on each side. Looks more like a timing issue, OR a lack of sufficient force on cocking for the cylinder bolt to be seated.
Looks to me like an "operator" issue......
Looks to me like an "operator" issue......
flatgate
Hawkeye
Richbaker said:
Hold trigger back, fan hammer spur.
:roll:
flatgate
A
Anonymous
flatgate said:
What happened to your Bearcats?? You know, the large number of cute little guns in the picture you always post at the least provocation ??????....... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
That peened S-S cylinder doesn't look right to me either. Got to be some sort of shooter abuse.
I never fan, or dry fire any guns, short of an occaisional need in checking something or clearing a hammerless auto after shooting. Beretta's manual says to never dry fire the 21A Bobcat. Ruger's manuals say it's okay, I just avoid doing it to be on the safe side.
Major T
Blackhawk
I have seen too many damaged chambers and pins back in my gun trading days. Dry fire your rimfires all you want. Mine will have a spent case (good for a good many strikes, then replaced,) a snap cap, or not done absent the first two options. Your money, your choice. Jack
SGW Gunsmith
Blackhawk
As for me, I'm not willing to take the chance of getting a chamber mouth ding. For the last several years I've been using "plastic wall anchors" in the #4 or #6 size as sanp caps for my Ruger Mark pistols. You can get these at your local hardware store in a box of 100 for around $5.00 and each one can be used around 10 times. What does a new upper cost these days?
D A Wood said:As for me, I'm not willing to take the chance of getting a chamber mouth ding. For the last several years I've been using "plastic wall anchors" in the #4 or #6 size as sanp caps for my Ruger Mark pistols. You can get these at your local hardware store in a box of 100 for around $5.00 and each one can be used around 10 times. What does a new upper cost these days?
+1
As I mentioned earlier in this post!
If you look closely you will note that every chamber has two distinct 'dings', where the firing pin shouldn't even be hitting.Richbaker said:
Now, the question is; "What caused those dimples?"Snake45 said:
JWFilips
Single-Sixer
Pure Genius! :lol:D A Wood said:As for me, I'm not willing to take the chance of getting a chamber mouth ding. For the last several years I've been using "plastic wall anchors" in the #4 or #6 size as sanp caps for my Ruger Mark pistols. You can get these at your local hardware store in a box of 100 for around $5.00 and each one can be used around 10 times. What does a new upper cost these days?
