Cylinder Latch not dropping

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WARD

Single-Sixer
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May 28, 2008
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Over the weekend I did a grip frame parts swap between a Ruger Single Six Bisley and a Ruger Single Six 32 mag.

When at the range, the cylinder latch on my new Bisley 32 was hanging up and not dropping when attempting to cock the hammer.

I did not switch the latch so each gun has their original cylinder latch (and pawl.)

I did switch the grip frame, grips, hammer, trigger, and related small parts.

What might be causing this issue?

Thanks
ward
 

targetshootr

Single-Sixer
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Will the hammer cock? Either way, I'd take it apart and see what's going on. New models are finicky, you have to have four hands to make one come together just right.
 

WARD

Single-Sixer
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The hammer will not cock as the cylinder can't advance. I suppose I'll have to take it back apart and see if I can figure out why it's being a problem.
 

Hondo44

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SAJohn has indicated the most common problem. With the gun assembled, you can see if the gate spring/latch lockout is out of position by looking at the base of the loading gate; it will be sticking out towards the cyl.

If it is, pull the cyl and pop the spring back in place, no need to dis-assemble the gun.
 

Kanook

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Somd of the trigger housings have a cutout in them, not sure if both of yours will or not. The cutout would be to the right of the hump that holds the spring in.

I'm bad at part names.
 

Hondo44

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Kanook said:
Somd of the trigger housings have a cutout in them, not sure if both of yours will or not. The cutout would be to the right of the hump that holds the spring in.

I'm bad at part names.

"Trigger housing" being the main frame or the trigger guard? Trigger spring or gate spring?

If it's the cutout for the free spin pawl it's only on the new model Flat tops and New Vaq.

But both of his grip frames are the same and will interchange.

Ward,
The only thing you mixed up was the cyl bolt actuating pins in the hammers when you switched hammers. The pins are now working on different cyl bolts. Try switching the pins too.
 

Kanook

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Please bare with my explanation, where the single screw goes thru the gripframe in front of the trigger, on the unfinished side, there is a round hole for a spring , and next to that some gripframes have a shallow cutout/groove, and some don't.

This has been talked about befors in the past, just can't find picture of it.
 

Hondo44

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Kanook said:
Please bare with my explanation, where the single screw goes thru the gripframe in front of the trigger, on the unfinished side, there is a round hole for a spring , and next to that some gripframes have a shallow cutout/groove, and some don't.

This has been talked about befors in the past, just can't find picture of it.

Kanook,

Ok I can follow that. I don't recall the cutout and could not find it on any of the dissassenbled new model grip frames I have sitting around. Which model do the grip frames with the cutout come on? How do you think that would affect Wards grip frame swap problem? Any cutout to the right of the hump could serve no purpose because the bottom of the main frame completely covers that area and fits tight against it.

Here's a photo of an old model grip frame so it doesn't have the hole for the cyl bolt spring, but where would the cutout be relative to the hump and the trigger slot shown?
orig.jpg
 

Kanook

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Just to the right of the hump. I did a swap on my wifes SBH. Hers is the 4 5/8 barrel and she wanted the Dragoon style frame. Spent about 1 1/2 hrs till I put the new and old frame beside each other and noticed the difference. I will try to find out the date of hers.
 

Hondo44

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Kanook said:
Just to the right of the hump. I did a swap on my wifes SBH. Hers is the 4 5/8 barrel and she wanted the Dragoon style frame. Spent about 1 1/2 hrs till I put the new and old frame beside each other and noticed the difference. I will try to find out the date of hers.

Which grip frame had the cutout, the standard size grip frame on her 4 5/8"?
Did she buy the gun new?
How did it prevent the swap or what problem did it cause??
Isn't the cutout completely covered by the bottom of the main frame when installed preventing any other parts from contacting the cutout?
 
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That cutout is for the gate detent spring. Some have it some don't
I think the problem with the hammer and cyl. is the hammer strut. Use the same strut with the same cyl. latch?
Eric
 

Hondo44

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eric conrad said:
That cutout is for the gate detent spring. Some have it some don't
I think the problem with the hammer and cyl. is the hammer strut. Use the same strut with the same cyl. latch? Eric

Thanks Eric (and Kanook), that was informative. In all the dozens of grips frames I've worked with I never had one with a cutout for the gate spring.

I think ward kept the proper hammer spring with the grip frame from what he said he changed above.

I do know that sometimes if you have everything assembled correctly but don't have the grip frame screwed up tight, the hammer will not cock.
 

flatgate

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Your switching of parts may have been done incorrectly. "I did switch the grip frame, grips, hammer, trigger, and related small parts."

The pawl switching may be causing your trouble. Usually one should keep the pawl with the cylinder to which it was Factory fitted.

Just a thought..... :roll:

flatgate
 

Carry_Up

Single-Sixer
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Dec 22, 2007
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Here is a great example that shows why you can't swap parts around from one model to another. The critical parts are hand fit to work in a particular gun, even when you are considering the same model. Especially when you are considering different models.

Cylinder latch timing is affected by the cylinder latch itself, the hammer plunger (which differs from model to model) and to some extent the hammer itself. The pawl must be timed to match a given plunger/latch arrangement so it doesn't start rotating the cylinder before the latch lets go. And you thought that double actions were complicated!

-cu
 
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