eveled said:
Are the converted guns still susceptible to getting a turn line if they are not brought to full cock after being at half cock? Are the Bearcats?
There are three kinds of single action turn lines that must be differentiated:
1. those that only appear in the cyl notch approach lead which indicate proper SA timing on old models and Colts.
2. those that start 1/2 way between notches which indicate proper New Model design timing. (this is also normal on double actions because the cyl bolt is designed to lift early to prevent the bolt from skipping by the cyl notch under rapid DA shooting).
3. those that go all around the cyl and are preventable with proper handling on single actions (and double actions).
There are several aspects to the cylinder ring issue, AKA “cylinder stop track":
#1. COLTS, RUGER 3 screws and Similar: Proper handling of these old design SAs is important but also, recognize that by design the Ruger cyl bolt comes up too soon!
Most do not realize that once you cock the hammer, even on a properly timed SA, you MUST COMPLETE THE CYCLE!! Never drop the hammer from safety notch or half cock; always cycle all the way thru the full cock position and then let the hammer down. If you don't, you get the same effect of the new model Rugers below: the cylinder has not been moved thru its full cycle which allows the cyl latch to pop up on the cylinder surface. Also, cyl latch springs on the old or new model SAs are always too strong! Use an aftermarket lighter spring. Just don't go too light or under hard and fast cocking, you can slam the cylinder notch right past the cyl latch with potentially ugly results when the trigger is pulled. I have Colt's that I've shot for years with no ring on the cylinder at all; only a shiny spot in the approach ramp to the cylinder notch.
The Ruger cyl latch actuating plunger in the hammer base must be longer to improve Ruger's design and delay cyl latch rise until the cyl notch approach ramp is correctly aligned.
#2. HANDLING NM RUGER SAs: I have blue Ruger SAs with barely a noticeable line not even thru the bluing after hundreds of Cowboy Shooting matches. Before closing the loading gate on new models, or replacing the cylinder on old or new models, make sure to turn the cylinder by hand so the notch is aligned above the cyl latch to minimize the cyl latch rubbing on the cylinder surface.
#3. POLISHING THE CYLINDER LATCH: For all SA and DA revolvers - the single most important preventative action you can take and the 1st thing I do on any revolver of mine, new or used is pull the cylinder (or open it, in the case of DAs) and polish the cylinder latch! They all come with file marks just waiting to carve out a line and groove in your cylinder finish!! Stainless guns are the worst, they gouge like aluminum. I have to look at the bolt surface with a 10 power jeweler's loop or my 10x gunsmith glasses (which are excellent eye protection as well) to truly see if the bolt needs polishing. What looks good to my naked eye can be bad enough to carve up the cylinder. The sharp edges can really do damage and don't need to be knife edge sharp to function and have nice tight lock up. Here's how I do it:
I swing out or remove the cyl and mask off the frame and breech face all around the bolt with blue masking tape because I use a Dremel tool and it can slip off the bolt. I wear my gunsmith 10x glasses and look for any irregularities. If there are any marks, I use a VERY FINE abrasive wheel in the Dremel tool to polish out the file marks, etc., but I don't touch the sharp edges or change the contour of the bolt unless it needs slight re-contouring to center it in the cylinder notch leads. If no file marks, I go straight to polishing.
With a little felt buffing wheel in the Dremel and white rouge (used for stainless steel) I put a mirror finish on it. This is when I also address the sharp edges; I leave them nice and square but just dull the knife edge with the buffing wheel and the rouge. And I don't overdo it.
It only takes 3 to 4 minutes including masking and cleanup.
ONE MORE LITTLE TIDBIT TO PREVENT CYLINDER SCRATCHES WITH PROPER CARE:
Misc. circumference scratches that appear on single action cylinders can be caused while removing and replacing the cylinder for cleaning. A simple technique can easily avoid them. Cut a strip of paper about 8" long and the width of the cylinder. Insert it around the cylinder before removing the cylinder pin. Once you pull the pin, you can lift the cylinder out of the frame window by the paper sling and not have to worry about making contact with the edges of the frame. This is especially helpful when reinstalling the cylinder into the frame as you rotate it past the hand (cyl pawl) and align it with the cylinder pin as you push the pin back in.
As you can tell from other posts, not all care about this issue and are quick to tell you. The cylinder line scribed by the cylinder latch is about the most obvious sign of wear. Not just a sign of shooting but also of cycling, opening for checking or loading and unloading. If you aren't already aware, there are two things that you can do to mitigate or minimize further scribing: 1st, when you close the cylinder on a double action, with your left hand grasp it around the bottom of the frame with thumb and forefinger each in the cylinder flutes opposite each other. Position them at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock just as the cylinder locks into place. The cyl latch will lock into the stop notch w/o having to rotate the cylinder with cyl latch rubbing on its surface. This will become a habit whenever you close a double action cylinder and you'll no longer have to think about doing it. This WILL prevent a full cylinder ring and limit it to an interrupted ring, and show a properly handled revolver.
