Bullet sizing dies in a single stage press?

[meshugunner]

I am fixing to get started casting bullets. This will be a big savings in ammo cost. Right now my goal is plinking ammo (.38 Sp & 9mm) for tactical drills. Please indulge me in a couple of boneheaded questions.

It seems one can use Lyman cast bullet sizing dies in a single stage press. (I'd rather buy an RCBS Rockchucker than a dedicated press). If that is so, do I need shell holders to fit the dies to the press?

Should I get the casting mold oversized by one or two thousandths?

Thank you.

 

[DeletedMember275]

Lee makes inexpensive push-through sizing dies that fit a reloading press. You would need custom-made adapters to use Lyman sizing dies in this manner. Most molds throw bullets that are a couple of thousandths of an inch over the nominal diameter already. A notable exception seems to be current manufacture Lyman molds - they tend to throw bullets that are actually undersize.

If you're interested in cast bullets, by all means join the Cast Boolits forum: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php

 

[meshugunner]

Thanks Enigma, that's just the info I needed. So if I got this mold

http://goo.gl/085zd

I could size the results in a single stage press with this die set

http://goo.gl/c1EBQ

?

 

[gregs45auto]

+1 on Lee push thru sizing dies. The only drawback is messy hands. I have paper towels and lighter fluid to clean the gunk off. Also, I cut 1 gallon milk jugs in half and use them. Add bullets with the lla and swirl. hth greg

 

[wizofwas]

The RCBS Rockchucker is a great press, esp. for the beginner. The Lee sizers are also fast and very easy to use. I don't know if I'd of started learning how to cast with a 6-Cavity Bullet Mold or not. A 2-cavity or a 4-cavity mold would be easier to learn witn, I think. But at least you can alway put the mistakes back in to pot to try again. There is plenty of info on the net to learn about casting. I do suggest reading as much as possible.

 

[Rick Courtright]

I could size the results in a single stage press with this die set

http://goo.gl/c1EBQ

?

Hi,

Yup! Just remember to read the instructions and lube the bullets w/ the Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) BEFORE sizing so they don't stick in the sizing die. This is a different procedure than dedicated sizer-lubricator tools where they do both jobs at the same time.

I've found it beneficial to give my bullets a second treatment (light) w/ the LLA AFTER sizing them w/ the Lee tool.

Also, I give the bullets a quick wipe down w/ a rag and mineral spirits AFTER the round is finished: LLA tends to attract "crud" and that part of the bullet that's exposed in the finished round needs no lube.

Rick C

 

[meshugunner]

Excellent. This is very encouraging. I am going to get started.

Yes I am chewing my way through the castboolits forum but for a newbie it's a bit overwhelming. Right now I feel that I just need to actually make some bullets and it will be much easier to absorb all that info.

I have a Dillon 550 (that too was overwhelming until I actually made a few rounds with my own hands) and I like the idea of having a good quality single stage press to supplement it. So this all works out well.

I will take wizofwas' advice and stick to a two cavity mold. It's a classical newbie mistake to get too ambitious too soon.

I have a small blacksmith shop so I expect the melting part of the process to be fairly easy.

I am planning to start with wheel weights. Does it make sense to add more antimony to bring them up to optimum hardness or should I just not mess with that right now?

 

[gregs45auto]

wheel weights are just fine for pistol/revolver bullets going less that 1200 fps. Higher velocities and I use a gas check. hth greg

 

[mikld]

Yep on the mold and sizing dies (although a 2 or even 4 cavity mold might be easier to begin with). Wheel weights as is, is a good start, no need to begin mixing/changing alloys yet. I think hanging around CastBoolits.com would be great for a new caster and pay a lot attention to the stickies.

Lubing with alox can be really frustrating, so a couple hints; thin the alox with mineral spirits so it will dry faster and less sticky. Use less than you think you'll need. 99% of first time alox users us too much. Apply a thin, light tan coat.
Look at this stickie here for easier tumble lubing http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=67654

 

[Rick Courtright]

I am planning to start with wheel weights. Does it make sense to add more antimony to bring them up to optimum hardness or should I just not mess with that right now?

Hi,

I've tried to do my part to add to the gazillion and a half bullets cast from straight wheelweights over the years...

I've never added any antimony (or tin, for that matter) to the alloy, and have had acceptable results. If you wish to drop the bullets from the mold into a water bath, that can harden them ever so slightly over what you'll have if you let them air cool. Caution: keep the water well away from the lead pot. Nasty "explosions" have happened when moisture got into the hot pot...

There are procedures for oven hardening your bullets--the Castboolit guys probably have plenty of info on that. But for starters, just use your bullets "as cast" w/o adding metal, load 'em light, and see how they work. There's sometimes a bit of experimenting and learning involved in getting the bullet/alloy/lube combo that works best in a particular gun figured out.

Also... we have a "problem" w/ wheelweights these days you may already be aware of: many of them are no longer lead based. The common "non-lead" types I've found so far are steel and zinc. Steel's easy to pick out w/ a magnet. Some of the zinc weights have a "Zn" cast into them, so they're easy to spot. If not, zinc doesn't melt until a much higher temp than lead, so a thermometer in the pot can help keep zinc out of the alloy (it can cause a handful of casting problems.) Again, the Castboolit guys probably have some advice there on what temp to melt your alloy so the zinc floats on top and you can skim it off. I've seen a couple of numbers, but don't want to trust my memory and ruin a whole pot of alloy for you!

Rick C

 

[GP100man]

I can tell , it won`t be long you`ll be seekin 1 of these .
Glad Rick brought up the zinc wheel weights as I was about to !
& it`s easier to size down than try makin e bigger (yes .002 will suffice)

 

[meshugunner]

I can tell , it won`t be long you`ll be seekin 1 of these .....

lol! It's true. That's where I am headed. Perhaps I should just save time and money and get one now. They cost about the same as a Rockchucker anyway.

Gunshow this weekend. I might pick up something there otherwise I'll shop online. Right now I have about 500lbs of wheel weights that are 15yrs old so that should be pre zinc?

Zinc fumes are bad. I lost a friend to zinc poisoning. He was heating up galvanized pipe in his shop.

 

[wizofwas]

I got one of those for my GS 308's that I load. But I still just pan lube with LLA all of my pistol bullets. But none of those are gas checked. YMMV And look for a used one, if you're not in a hurry.

 

[meshugunner]

Update:

Well there was an interruption and I didn't get to do any casting for some time, but I just cast my first few batches of WC from wheel weights and they came out pretty good. I used a 6 cavity Lee mold and the Lee sizing die in an RCBS single stage press.

I've been using a cast iron cooking pot and a propane burner from my forge. A bit crude but it does the job. Some time down the road I might set up an electric burner with a thermostat.

So thank you to all, especially to Olsherm who gave me some private tutoring.

 

[GP100man]

Good deal !!

I use very little tumble lubed boolits but when I do I lube em with a mixture of 45% Alox, 45% Johnsons paste floor wax & 10% mineral sprits.

Warm it a little(no open flame heat source) & mix throughly , sprinkle on the boolits lube as normal . Dries faster & not near as stiky , seem to get shiney bore & less smoke .

Mix up a small batch & give it a try !! the runnier ya make it the faster it`ll dry ,BUT the thinner it`ll be .

GP

 

[Rodfac]

I' ve got a Lyman 450 sizer/lubricator that I've had since the early 70's. I've sized may thousands of bullets on it with good success. Dies are somewhat expensive and occasionally you can't find the right sizer for the bullet in question...Recently I bought a Lee push through...works with any 7/8" threaded press...and it's a lot faster than the 450 if you use Lee's swirling lube method...before you laugh...it works equally well with the old heavy grooved Lyman and Saeco molded bullets. Cheap, effective...I like it a lot and I'd recommend it for your starter unit. Best Regards, Rod