Brass Shotshells

[gerryb158]

I don't plan on doing this anytime soon but I got a case of mild curiosity. Anyone have experience loading brass shotshells? I'd just like a bit of information about what procedures, tools and components might be different from the plastic variety. Do you use the same press as typical for plastic shotshell reloading? I know 12 ga. brass shells are available but are others? A little run-down on how this works would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Gerry

 

[Bucks Owin]

Good question. I've thought of going the brass route with my 16 ga as ammo/components are getting kinda thin anymore...

Have MEC will travel? :?

 

[lark63]

Here check out this link:
http://www.lolosportinggoods.com/reloading.html
Williams Shooter Supply has the 12,16,20,28 and 410 MagTech brass in stock- They are wholesalers.
Not a cheap hobby but trying to buy as many guns as we can swing isn't either.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

These guys are always a good source for "specialty" shotshell info and products. They can probably help Bucks and all the 16 ga shooters, too! Here's their page for brass shotshells:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/MagTech-Brass-Shotshells/products/202/

They mention on that page that the MagTech hulls use large pistol primers, and suggest going a gauge larger for the components (e.g. 11 ga wads in 12 ga. hulls, etc.)

I've only seen brass loaded "old style" w/ card and felt wads, an overshot wad and a slight roll crimp. Dunno what else fits and works well w/ them, but there's a small booklet available on the website for just a couple of bucks that probably answers the common questions.

And they've got all the cards, felt wads and such available. I didn't look to see if they have data available (looks like the little booklet's NOT a recipe book.)

Rick C

 

[Bucks Owin]

Many thanks Lark and Rick! 8)

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I picked up some empty .410 Brass shot shells the last time I was at the range. They are pretty cool. 8) 8)

...Jimbo

 

[GP100man]

The baby girl loads her 410 hulls just like a home brew 44mag shot shell .

The trick is in sealing the loads so it`s some what handle proof.

& yes I fixed dippers for her & supervise .

Made our 410 hulls by millin .020" off 444marlin case heads & went to LP primers

The mild load she like ya can get 3-4 firings before sizing !!!

Thinking of trying liquid glass to seal with ????

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Thinking of trying liquid glass to seal with ????

How about a card and some 5 minute epoxy glue? 8) 8)

...Jimbo

 

[Mike Armstrong]

There was a series on loading brass shotshells in "Handloader" magazine last year (I think). If you have access to back issues, it would give you the scoop. I think you can search the contents of back issues on the Wolf Publishing website, and possibly order the two relevant back issues.

 

[Bucks Owin]

The baby girl loads her 410 hulls just like a home brew 44mag shot shell .

The trick is in sealing the loads so it`s some what handle proof.

& yes I fixed dippers for her & supervise .

Made our 410 hulls by millin .020" off 444marlin case heads & went to LP primers

The mild load she like ya can get 3-4 firings before sizing !!!

Thinking of trying liquid glass to seal with ????

Haven't tried liquid glass pard, but it may work...
I spent some time once messing with homebrew .44 mag (and even .357) shotshells. Made my own overpowder wads with this rig and thin cork sheet material used to keep big paper rolls from sliding on the floor of a semi trailer. Once I dumped in the #8 shot, I would put a small roll crimp on the case and then a few drops of Elmer's glue which would kinda spread through the top layer of shot. Once it hardened, the "glob" was trapped in the case by the crimp yet seemed to break apart just fine when fired as I got some nice "snake killer" patterns. Don't know that my shotshells would survive riding around in a pocket all day but they seemed fairly durable...Maybe they would! :wink:
At any rate, these days I stick with the excellent CCI .45LC commercial shotshells, they really do a number on rattlers...

TIP: Don't get the velocity too low or the shot will easily bounce back off a hard surface (like an oak board :shock: ) and wear safety glasses when firing... :wink:

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Just checked a couple of brass shells that came from a long ago Ducks Unlimited dinner...

They have a paper overshot wad, held in place by a rather light roll crimp. The o/s wad is printed w/ a gold "DU" on a green background, and is kinda shiny, but I'm not sure if that's just from the ink or if there's some kind of coating on the paper.

There's no obvious "sealant" but I 'spose a bit of clear nail polish around the edge of the o/s wad oughta work ok... Or flytying head cement (I use the nail polish for that job.) Maybe even a bit of varnish, lacquer or shellac if you've got any of them lying about from a woodworking project?

You could probably just dip a Q-tip in the sealer of choice and do a quick once around for a "good enough" seal.

Rick C

 

[GP100man]

We usually use waterproof carpenters glue ,it works good ,but takes 24hrs to dry !!!

1 drop on the 38/357 revolver rnds & 2 on the 44 & 410s.

Be sure to put enuff so it`ll reach the sides & seal.

been thinking of cutting summtin thicker & crimp it in.

 

[Dale53]

I loaded hundreds of brass shells (12 gauge) many years ago. I used both black powder and smokeless. My shells were from WW II guard ammo loaded with buckshot.

They had large pistol primers for ignition. Slow burning powders did not work well (got bloopers). I learned to use the next size wads. I used a card wad over the powder and a felt cushion wad. It was not at all necessary to fill the shell up.

At the time, I used "water glass" to seal the top wad. Later, Dupont Duco Duluxe became the "proper" glue for the top wad. Just run a bead around the edge of the wad, let it dry and away you go!

When I was able to get plastic cup wads that fit as an over powder wad, the "bloopers" disappeared.

Brass cases are considerably thinner than paper shells, hence the need for oversize wads.

Do not crimp the shells and they'll last forever. Crimp them and they crack in just a few loadings. If you seal the top wad with water glass or Dupont cement, that provides the needed resistance to assist in ignition.

Dale53

 

[gerryb158]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I think this brass shell project would turn out to be a little more complex than I'd expected. I have enough of the "plastic" variety on hand to last me a while anyway. A little late replying due to the snow storm and several days with no electric power. Good to go now though. Gerry