Blackhawk Grip Questions

[DanAKAL]

I have a New Model Blackhawk Convertible 45. The word "New" is quite adamant as to my best determination this gun was made in November of 2010. I haven't had it very long and this is my first Blackhawk. I really like the gun and it is indeed what I wanted except I have quite large hands and I have to curl my pinky under the grip. I have done a lot of reading and "www" research and have come up with two questions.

First I need a new grip frame to fit my large hands. The pics that I have seen with a stainless frame, walnut grips, on a blued (black) cylinder frame is indeed my eye candy so while I'm doing this I want a stainless frame. By all accounts the first choice for my big hands is a Bisley frame. This will fit my gun with little to no modifications required. However, these things seem to be very hard to find and will also require a different hammer. Really more than I probably want to do. The next choice for my hands is the Super Blackhawk Hunter frame, KHR00300. Please correct me if I am wrong but this frame will mate up to my blued blackhawk with no trimming or modifications needed. This is the frame I am looking at: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=589535 One thing of concern here is I have the locking mechanisum inside the grip and I am not certain that this frame will accept the lock. Were it feasible I would eliminate the lock in the grip and use the earlier model spring but I would need some extra parts. If that is what it takes to get a grip frame large enough for my hands this is what I would do.

Second, since I am looking so closely at the Hunter grip frame I have also tried to find walnut (wooden) grip panels. These seem very hard to find for the Hunter frame. Does anyone know of a good source for the wooden Hunter Grips?

Am I looking at the right stuff to accomplish my objective of a larger grip on my blackhawk? If not please let me know. If anyone has done this and knows which other parts I will need that would also be quite helpful.

Dan

 

[BlackEagle]

The hunter gripframe uses the same grips as the Super Blackhawk with the dragoon gripframe. You can get a new strut and mainspring for cheap (I got a used set here for $10 shipped), and not use the lock. The new gripframe from Midway needs fitting, which involves removing material to make the edges flush to the cylinder frame. The mating surfaces should be fine. Buying a used gripframe means it has probably already been fit, but to another gun. It might fit just right and it might not. I prefer the dragoon gripframe, which is the same size as the hunter gripframe, but has the square back trigger gaurd, and they are much easier to find used. Some over-achievers even modify the dragoon gripframe into a hunter. The dragoon gripframe is also available in brass.

 

[flatgate]

Your assumption about the lock mechanism fitting the stainless Bisley or Hunter grip frames is correct. No way will the lock fit. Any Pre-Lock Single-Six, Blackhawk, Super Blackhawk and Bisley and even the Old Army mainspring assembly from '53 to current production will fit the Hunter. (All but the O.A. are 23# springs and the O.A. is rated at 25#.)

I fitted a Hunter grip frame to a stainless .45 several years ago.

I also added the Super Blackhawk hammer. A very straight-forward swap. A little file work and some "scotch-brite" pad polishing was all it took.

Below is a comparison image. Lock and non-lock mainsprings and mainspring struts. The lock version of these two items is "shorter". What is NOT shown is the mainspring "seat" which would be required.

Yes, some of us "Over Achievers" (I've NEVER been accused of such behavior before :D ) will reshape the square-backed Super Blackhawk trigger guard into a round shape. Here's an image of the partially finished job....

Welding and "clean up" work yet to be done. One can also see a standard mainspring assembly, albeit an "aftermarket" item with a round strut.....

flatgate

 

[CraigC]

I'll go against the grain and suggest that you do a lot of shooting before modifying anything. Nobody, especially an experienced shooter, just picks up a single action and handles it like a pro. You need to spend time with it, shooting, handling and dry firing to become familiar and proficient with it. That includes becoming comfortable with the grip. Most shooters can't get all their digits on the standard plowhandle grip. Just tuck that pinky under and do some shooting.

IMHO, this is exactly why so many shooters instantly put an oversized rubber grip on their single action. Because they were not willing to spend the time to become accustomed to the single action and instead wanted it to feel more like their familiar double actions.

 

[G2]

I'm NOT trying to talk you out of customizing YOUR gun,,,I Will try & bring up a point that most here can't appreciate.

In your post you mention "have quite large hands " I too have big-o'l-paws. For years shot my OM Brass Grip Framed SBH and took the "knuckle wack"... would wear a glove, and even install the bandaid before I shot it. Got to the point I gave up and SOLD IT !! :shock:

One of my first post's here was "Why the knuckle wacker grip frame" I was gently told I needed to read Elmer Keith's book Sixguns and learn how to hold a Sixgun. I found a copy, read it, and started playing with my grip of a sixgun.

Conclusion: Bisley,SBH & Hunter Grip Frames are only ~1/4 longer and while that gives most extra room, Those of us with big-o'l-paws, it only give us enough room to try and cram our entire hand on the grip frame, thus pushing our middle finger up where it will get WACKED.
I have since figured out how to hold the sixgun EK style with the thumb, middle & ring finger and letting the little FAT finger go along for the ride, tucked in place. Now I prefer the Bisley,SBH & Hunter Grip Frames they provide lots of room for big-o'l-paws, I do tuck the little finger now w/ all GF's.

Study this over lay, and then ask yourself are you really going to get the extra room you need to get all 3 fingers on the GF? Not me.... :wink:
http://www.gunblast.com/images/Hamm_Ruger-SA-GripFrames/Drawings/Frames-ALL.jpg

rant off ...

PS +1 on what CraigC says - - - - good points.

 

[DanAKAL]

Thanks for all of the great info guys. And really nice pics. The info about shooting a lot and studying on how to hold my wheel gun is indeed noted. It is true that I want my BH to feel like my GP100 instead of my SP101. Not sure I could get past that feeling by tucking my pinky but I haven't studied Elmer Keith's writings on the subject either. For the past several years I have carried a S&W 460 V and needless to say this thing is a hand full with my standard load of 395 gr bullets going almost 1400 fps. This and my GP100 is what I have become accustomed to and I realize it is gonna take a whole new school of thought for my BH.

I'll probably go ahead with the Hunter Grip installation as I really like how the stainless grip frame and blued cylinder frame look. Not to mention that I really don't like the original aluminum frame. So if I have it right these are the following parts that I need.

Hunter Grip Frame KHR00300(referenced above)
Long Main Spring KXR00400
Hammer Strut KXR01500
Main Spring Seat KXR00500
Grip Panel Dowel KXR01400
Trigger Spring KXR03700
Wooden Grip Panels. It looks like these might be available from Houge.

Thanks Again

Dan

 

[Bucks Owin]

I'll go against the grain and suggest that you do a lot of shooting before modifying anything. Nobody, especially an experienced shooter, just picks up a single action and handles it like a pro. You need to spend time with it, shooting, handling and dry firing to become familiar and proficient with it. That includes becoming comfortable with the grip. Most shooters can't get all their digits on the standard plowhandle grip. Just tuck that pinky under and do some shooting.

IMHO, this is exactly why so many shooters instantly put an oversized rubber grip on their single action. Because they were not willing to spend the time to become accustomed to the single action and instead wanted it to feel more like their familiar double actions.

10X :wink:

And JMO, but NOTHING is uglier than a classy BH with one of those oversize rubber condoms on it... :shock:

 

[G2]

Don't need to order this part, will move over easy along with the Trigger Spring Pivot Pin.
Trigger Spring KXR03700


I would get a new Trigger Spring Retaining Pin KXR06300 You can move it over but it's a beat it out and beat back in. Your old Grip Frame will be looked upon as a complete donor part if this part is there along with the Grip Panel Locator Pin.

As for Grip Panels any Super Blackhawk Panel will work & lot's of good options out there.

Yes learn to drop the little finger when shooting single action, I would take a picture of my PAW but I'm sure you have seen plenty of the Big o'l Bear Paws up where you live... :roll:

Get you one of these and then try and get 3 fingers on it. :shock: ... and I have shot 24gr H110 255gr 45Colt loads from it, A real hoot.

 

[DanAKAL]

G2, Thanks for the heads up on the trigger Spring Retaining Pin. I had overlooked that. I intend to leave my original grip frame with all of its parts in place including the Main Spring with lock. That way when/if I want to put on the original frame it's just a matter of the five mounting screws.
You mentioned the Trigger Pivot Pin. Isn't this pin in the Cylinder Frame? It doesn't appear to me that I need to replace this pin while only replacing the Grip Frame. Albeit I am going from a Blackhawk Frame to a Super Blackhawk Hunter Frame. Is there something I am missing here?

Bucks I must very strongly agree with you. While my Stainless GP100 and 460V wear the "Rubber Condom" grip well a BH with that grip is just awful. Maybe a stainless BH might not be too bad but certainly not a buled Blackhawk. I have always been partial to walnut so thats the grips going on my "Blackhawk Hunter".

Oh, and indeed we have plenty of bear paws up here. Thats what the 460V is for. Sure wish Ruger hadn't discontinued the 480. That was what I really wanted but had to settle for the 460.

Dan

 

[G2]

The Trigger Spring Pivot Pin is in the GF. Look at flatgate's picture above, it's that little pin that would be under the grips almost to the cylinder frame at the same level as the bottom flat...whew that's a finger full. :roll:

~$2, if you want a extra, order it. Most of the time they will be lost when you go back looking for it. When I need one I just use the non-working end of a old drill bit.

They are just held it "ever so easy." Most of the time one can just push it out w/ a 1/8 punch, if they do require persuasion, its just a little tap. :wink:

 

[DanAKAL]

G2, Again many thanks as this was another part that I overlooked. I see now why I didn't see it when you mentioned it. It's the Trigger Spring Pivot Pin. I was looking at the larger Trigger Pivot Pin which is a part of the Cylinder Frame. Again, many thanks.

Dan

 

[pvtschultz]

You may also might want to consider trying a custom grip made with a lot less taper than the factory grips. I'm quite fond of them and so have the dozens that have told me so as well.

There's a few of us here that can set you up with a fine pair of wood grips.

 

[EDK]

I have installed either a HUNTER or DRAGOON grip frame on over a dozen VAQUEROS and BLACKHAWKS. A used grip frame MAY be a better fit than the factory new grip frame AND you won't have to blue it either. I really like the looks of the stainless grip frame on the blue/cch VAQUEROS.

My last purchases were 7.5 inch 44 VAQUEROS. Stainless gun has a HUNTER grip frame and the blued has a used blue DRAGOON and a SUPER BLACKHAWK hammer.

I like thinner grips like EAGLE GRIPS Gunfighter model. Carl at pvtschultz or Cary at caryc are two excellent craftsmen to look at.

 

[DanAKAL]

Thanks for the info guys. I ordered the stainless hunter frame from Midway and I emailed pvt schultz. He and I are working out the grips I need. I can't wait to get my new parts!!! I'll post pics when I get it all put together.

Dan