Blackhawk Convertible Cylinders
- Thread starter D_Gunner
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
First there is a hole in the cylinder frame and cylinder. The base pin will fit in these two holes.
Next, you place the base pin in the frame, but not extending into the cylinder area.
Now you are almost ready.
With the loading gate 'open', you carefully insert the cylinder. Should just fall in.
Once you think it is lined up, you put pressure on the base pin, wiggling (slightly rotating, back and a forth) the cylinder a bit until the base pin slides in.
Simple as that.
No real trick. Just practice.
Word of caution... Never force.
On a new base pin, make sure it fits in the frame and cylinder before trying to fit all three together. Some base pins need a bit of sanding to fit properly.
Next, you place the base pin in the frame, but not extending into the cylinder area.
Now you are almost ready.
With the loading gate 'open', you carefully insert the cylinder. Should just fall in.
Once you think it is lined up, you put pressure on the base pin, wiggling (slightly rotating, back and a forth) the cylinder a bit until the base pin slides in.
Simple as that.
No real trick. Just practice.
Word of caution... Never force.
On a new base pin, make sure it fits in the frame and cylinder before trying to fit all three together. Some base pins need a bit of sanding to fit properly.
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Rotate the cylinder as you push the base pin in. Works for me.
when you are holding the gun on its side, left side DOWN< place the cylinder so it "lays" in the window ,against the far left ( downward side) and sometimes if you slightly turn the cylinder left or right and hear a "click" then , the pin can be pushed in from the front, yes at times you need to wiggle the cylinder slightly at the same time so it all 'aligns' and the pin goes into the center of the cylinder, DO NOT force the pin in , the slight wiggle and the holes will all align, and pin enter freely.......practice and yes helps if there is a bit of gun oil on the pin to help smooth things out...it is far easier to actually do or to show than to type it out in words.........but I been doing this since the late 1950s.......... 8) :roll: :wink:
the real trick is with the "shouldered" pin on the Blackhawks, so you do NOT turn the curve away from the bottom of the barrel and "bind" the pin against the barrel, jamming it in place, scratching the barrel ........
the real trick is with the "shouldered" pin on the Blackhawks, so you do NOT turn the curve away from the bottom of the barrel and "bind" the pin against the barrel, jamming it in place, scratching the barrel ........
Don't feel bad if you have trouble with this occasionally, I certainly do. I'm sure it's "operator error" since the very same gun will allow me to just slip a cylinder in there and the pin will slide into place with no problem most of the time, but on other occasions it fights me all the way. I can try the pin without a cylinder and the pin almost falls into the frame. Add a cylinder to the mix and the whole thing binds up. I think there are little Ruger gremlins in there. Best thing to do is just lay the gun and parts down, take a deep breath, and then start over, by the numbers. As rugerguy says, wiggling helps . . . the parts, not your . . . nevermind.
Don't give up. It will go together, without the use of a hammer. It's all finesse. And the loading gate should be open for this operation.
:mrgreen: :wink: :mrgreen:
Don't give up. It will go together, without the use of a hammer. It's all finesse. And the loading gate should be open for this operation.
:mrgreen: :wink: :mrgreen:
Oh darn Ale! No hammer? :shock: :mrgreen: just kidding! I too sometimes have a problem. As everyone says, put the cylinder in and out the right side, a slight rotation of the cylinder will sometimes help alignment. The base pin will slide in easily once aligned. Good luck.
gramps
gramps
Well . . . maybe just a little one . . . :lol: :wink: :lol:
Also helps considerably to have the hammer at half-cock on Old Models so the bolt is down out of the way and you can more easily "wiggle" in both directions. (Don't say it)
I guess on New Models having the gate open serves the same purpose since it's linked to the bolt.
:mrgreen:
Also helps considerably to have the hammer at half-cock on Old Models so the bolt is down out of the way and you can more easily "wiggle" in both directions. (Don't say it)
I guess on New Models having the gate open serves the same purpose since it's linked to the bolt.
:mrgreen:
Might serve to hide the hammer marks.
:roll: :wink:
:roll: :wink:
Hondo44
Hawkeye
All good advice above from fellow members.
The issue of the cyl dropping in straight and in alignment with the frame and the pin, is the cyl hand sticking out of the recoil shield in the frame cyl window.
A slight roll of the cyl as gramps posted so you can "feel" for the hand to index into the cyl ratchets is the secret.
I also use a cyl 'sling' on new guns.
The issue of the cyl dropping in straight and in alignment with the frame and the pin, is the cyl hand sticking out of the recoil shield in the frame cyl window.
A slight roll of the cyl as gramps posted so you can "feel" for the hand to index into the cyl ratchets is the secret.
I also use a cyl 'sling' on new guns.
Hondo44 said:
One of several secrets to the successful completion of the installation. As rugerguy mentions, it's a whole lot easier to actually demonstrate this than it is to verbally explain it on a website.
"Wiggling" still helps, as well.
:wink:
contender
Ruger Guru
"Ruger forum members......PLEASE No posting while under the influence"
Relax,,, it's just a little humor.
Cylinder alignment is the key, as is the differences in the models. Old Models require that the hammer be at half cock, while the New Models require the loading gate open.
Relax,,, it's just a little humor.
Cylinder alignment is the key, as is the differences in the models. Old Models require that the hammer be at half cock, while the New Models require the loading gate open.
contender said:
Exactly that's why I thought I would just throw some humor their way
I think I have the hang of getting the cylinder installed.
I thought of back when I worked the assembly line for Generous Motors to get a part together
It is better to just ease it in If your struggling then your working too hard
45Colt_Man
Blackhawk
Some are more finicky than others. I have a stainless 4 5/8 .45colt that the base pin will only go in with the cylinder positioned just exactly. Luckily there is a mark on the cylinder so that I can get it in the correct position, took me 30 minutes to learn the secret on that gun.
Dana
Dana
D_Gunner said:contender said:
Exactly that's why I thought I would just throw some humor their way
It can be difficult to express humor or sarcasm on a web page if ya don't include a "smiley" or two. :wink: :wink: :wink:
Did ya get your cylinder installed successfully?
:mrgreen:
Check to see if your base pin has the half moon cut out near the top on the pin. What gives me the most trouble with those types is keeping the crescent against the barrel while aligning the pin and cylinder and pushing in the locking pin all at the same time.
I just have it figured out I think there's a learning curve as each gun is different.
I just panic just like with my Mark III
Which I think reassembly of the Mark III should be one of the qualification's
On receiving your Man Card :lol: :mrgreen:
I just panic just like with my Mark III
Which I think reassembly of the Mark III should be one of the qualification's
On receiving your Man Card
:lol: :mrgreen:
