BH question, cut a barrel or replace?

The odds are slim to none that the 5.5" barrel will clock to the correct location for final tightening. If it tightens past top dead center you then have to set back up to a full barrel thread to get where you need to be. You also have the issue of getting the proper cylinder gap once the barrel is fit. Odds are you will have to be ready to face off the barrel and recut the forcing cone. If you shorten the existing barrel you will have to reattach a front site.It all can be done at home depending on your skill level and tools available. Sometimes it is simpler to sell what you have and buy what you want. Look at some of the projects in the gunsmithing section of this forum. Good luck!
 
never know till you 'try', and at least with the stainless barrels they will "clean up" nice and easy, the blued ones have to be polished out and reblued.........so find a gunsmith that has the proper tools ( jigs) and wrenches and at least 'try', never know, and it is cheaper than cutting the other one down and resoldering the front sight, crowning, etc......never know, till you ask a GOOD gunsmith...you have the parts already ,half the battle & cost..........
 
I've heard a number of horror stories about the threads galling badly on Ruger stainless. I've never tried it myself, so can't say anything from either side of the fence.

Either without that, I'd be more inclined to sell the spare barrel, and pay someone to cut and crown what you've got. If your current barrel had problems, I'd go for replacing. So, if you're happy with the accuracy, your barrel-cylinder gap, and whatever else you can think of, just get it trimmed back.

The biggest issue I've heard from local gunsmiths is the fact that they prefer to put the barrel-frame assembly into the lathe, which requires an appropriate counterbalance to do. There are mostly rifle smiths around here, so revolver work is tough to get done. On the other side of that, you can probably do some internet digging and find tutorials from guys that have done it in their garage with a hacksaw, a drill, and a few files.

But still, I'd probably opt for cutting, unless there were other issues.
 
Nothing wrong with a hacksaw, drill, and a few files if you have the right tools and know how to use them. Few pics of one my brother built for my wife in the processing stages. Best part about it, no smith tried to rape my wallet or asked me to bow down to his alter! Oh and the gun shoots groups a third the size it did with the longer barrel, a good crown makes a huge difference. If you think you'll do more than one you come out way ahead getting the tools and having at it. Just take your time. We've done this one, a single ten, and currently are waiting on parts delivery to do an old model single six centerfire conversion in .32h&r with a 3.75" barrel and brass birdshead.

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I took the question to be if the OP was attempting to perform the work himself. After the OP buys several of the tools to make the job "easy" he probably could have paid a gunsmith to cut the the barrel.
 
My opinion is to sell what you've got, then buy what you want.
 
Thank you all for the responses. I have a large frame 45 colt, buying one that is not a flat top or Bisley is not an option as far as I know with a 5.5 in S/S. I had Dave Clements do my SBH and I love the work he did. I will not do the work myself, it will go to him when he can fit me in. I guess it is a call I can let him make but I lucked into a barrel so I bought it. Either way is fine and he will be doing alot of other work to it as well. When that one is done I have a pre warning 6.5" BH S/S 357 to cut down to 5.5" as well to send him. As you can tell I am trying to build a set of three calibers all the same size guns. Ya'll might remember the SBH he did for me that I posted, (SBH on its way home from David Clements !!!). That is what they will all look like when done. I have a Marlin lever 1894 caliber matched for each one. Thanks again, if Dave doesn't use the barrel I will be selling here,
 

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