An Internally Mounted Cylinder Latch Block - Ruger New Model

[was1911]

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[Chuck 100 yd]

Very nice work indeed. Way beyond my pay grade and way past the precision I could appreciate in a hand gun. I don`t even do factory made guns Justus when it comes to accurate shooting.

 

[edlmann]

Edited syntax so that pic would show up.

 

[contender]

WOW! More great info from a craftsman. THANKS!

Folks, if you do not have the skills, or even the desires to do such stuff,, you should still appreciate what has been shown here.
Lots of work & thought go into building a truly nice custom gun, and it's attention to details such as this that set the custom guns apart.

Thanks to was1911 for taking the time to post all of this.

 

[SAJohn]

Thank you, that was facinating. Machine shop 101 indeed.

 

[BlackEagle]

Incredible! :shock:

 

[mrdix]

Sometimes when one posts these very detailed pictures of a complex solution to a problem ( very well done by the way !) I am left to ask :what does this little part acomplish ? I assume it makes the locking "bolt " more precise ? and facilitates line boring ? I don't really understand what is accomplished . I would like to understand the issue , I think its because of the lack of presion of the factory locking bolt ?

thanks for the great write up and in no way am I being a wise guy ...guess I just do not undertand what this is all about ....

 

[contender]

It's all about the mechanics of making a firearm work like a precision instrument. Tighter tolerances, parts in alignment, parts that have friction smoother, etc. All make for a fine shooting firearm.

 

[SATCOM]

was1911.

Your post is appreciated. I did not understand most of the terminology but enjoyed seeing the work accomplished.

SATCOM

 

[Flash]

Excellent tutorial and photographs. How many thousands clearance between the block and the latch? Just curious.

 

[Flash]

Sometimes when one posts these very detailed pictures of a complex solution to a problem ( very well done by the way !) I am left to ask :what does this little part acomplish ? I assume it makes the locking "bolt " more precise ? and facilitates line boring ? I don't really understand what is accomplished . I would like to understand the issue , I think its because of the lack of presion of the factory locking bolt ?

thanks for the great write up and in no way am I being a wise guy ...guess I just do not undertand what this is all about ....

It reduces the slop in the latch which will cause the cylinder to move a few degrees when the hammer is back.
It's making something good, better.

 

[contender]

I like that comment; "It makes something good, better!"

 

[Ruger36]

Ruger could improve the frames with more support for the latch ,grab your cyl to see if it has side play if so it can come from cyl. latch play. Years back on my three screws I used the front half of a rear micro sight for latch supports. Its almost a perfect fit with a little filing for the latch spring

 

[was1911]

There are no thousands clearance. The side of the latch is a lapped final fit to the block.

Actually, that's the point of the block. Zero side-to-side latch movement.

Saw this one the other day:

"Some is good, more is better, and too much is just enough."

 

[Enigma]

A very elegant solution to the problem! Well done, sir!

 

[Stevie]

Hello, This is a question for WAS1911, looking at the work you did on the latch block is very impressive by the way, I have a question hopefully I could get you to weigh in:

I'm new to the Forum and re barreling (shortening and dovetail Colt style sight) a couple of Vaqueros (45LC).

Question is what is the proper torque/ angle for these barrels? I have tightened them to the recommended 30 degrees from hand tight(Kuhnhausen) and get a definite bore restriction with a .4425 dia gage. Barrel and frame shoulders are smooth and square and thread together smoothly to hand tight.

With the 18" lever arm on my action wrench I figure 30 degrees is maybe 50 ft-lbs, (approximated "feel" against a torque wrench). At about 20 degrees and maybe 30 ft-lbs (guessing again), the restriction can be felt but the gage will pass. I would like to leave it there but is that tight enough? Has anyone had a barrel work loose? I would perfer not to use Locktite. Thanks.

 

[Carry_Up]

Thanks for the excellent photos, excellent workmanship, and very instructive comments. Correct me if I'm wrong, but your part is designed to eliminate side-to-side play in the cylinder stop? And the goal is to smooth the feel of cocking the hammer, or....? The CS does bear against the window in the frame once it locks into the cylinder locking groove.

Aside from the impressive machine work, I think it should be pointed out that zero tolerance in the CS requires a). that the revolver be line bored and b). that the locking grooves in the cylinder be in perfect registration with each chamber. And those requirements are not easily met unless you are making a brand new cylinder. I hope all that great machine work achieves those goals, given that the major components of the gun have already been separately made.

Freedom Arms produces their revolvers with this kind of precision, but they also make all their parts. My experience has always been that close tolerance and reliability are at opposite ends of a scale and that some compromise must be reached.

Carry_Up

In spite of the obviously generous tolerances in the NM trigger and CS, these parts tend to function smoothly in a stock firearm without much attention. It is the sloppy upward motion of the transfer bar that detracts from a really smooth trigger pull.

 

[Carry_Up]

Question is what is the proper torque/ angle for these barrels? I have tightened them to the recommended 30 degrees from hand tight(Kuhnhausen) and get a definite bore restriction with a .4425 dia gage. Barrel and frame shoulders are smooth and square and thread together smoothly to hand tight.

Art and science combined in my opinion. With snug thread fit and torque surfaces square and in good condition, use 30 to 45 degree suggestion along with your mechanics feel. Un-scientific. I wouldn't be afraid to use locktite: the factory does on many DA models (and they still can't get the barrel on straight.)

Since the gauge is measuring the lands, you are good to go at .4425. Again, my personal opinion.

-CU

 

[Stevie]

Question is what is the proper torque/ angle for these barrels? I have tightened them to the recommended 30 degrees from hand tight(Kuhnhausen) and get a definite bore restriction with a .4425 dia gage. Barrel and frame shoulders are smooth and square and thread together smoothly to hand tight.





Carry_Up thanks for the reply, I went with the low side, 30 degrees and there is a bit of restriction but liveable, probably less than original. The take off barrel was really,really tight, so tight I was worried I was going to tweak the frame but I soaked in kroil and got it off. Thanks again.