Advice on black powder pistol purchase

Ruger Packer

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Grand Lake Oklahoma
There is a gentleman in my area that has a black powder pistol for sale. Its approximately 40 years old. Its a Hawes, .36 caliber, with a brass grip frame, barrel looks to be about 5" or 5.5" in length. The seller says he is the original owner and that he has never shot the revolver.

I've never owned a black powder handgun. Just kinda wondered if there was anything I should look for or check closely (other than the bore and nipples)??

Seller is asking $140.00 OBO. Is $140.00 reasonable (I plan to offer less but just wondering)???

Thanks in advance for any info y'all can impart. 8)
 
rust/corrosion as usual
check nipple size to confirm replacements are available

not a bad price, but prepare to spend that much & more for the possible bag to make using it more pleasurable

does that have the ball lever under the barrel?

nipple wrench/nipple pick/cap setter (wide choice of $)/various cleaning solutions/bore butter/balls/caps/non-petroleum lube/stuff I've forgotten about/oh, the Holy Black....a pound will last a long time in this pistol/don't forget some chapstick to grease up the Big Smile cap N'ball puts on yer face.....PLUS:::

ALWAYS clean immediately after use or trouble ensues within DAYS
 
I bought one a couple years back just like that for $75. I'm not a fan of the brass frame as the steel is much stronger and I think they look better. However, chances are you will never wear out or stretch a .36 brass frame.
If he doesn't have any accessories, I'd offer $100. If he has some accessories, $140 would probably be alright. Keep in mind Cabelas regularly has sales on new ones for well under $200.
 
All that he is selling is just the gun. No powder, balls, powder flask, or accessories. No nipple wrench/pick or cap setter

Yes, this has the lever/rammer under the barrel.

I have no idea about or how to check nipple size. :(
 
Ruger Packer said:
All that he is selling is just the gun. No powder, balls, powder flask, or accessories. No nipple wrench/pick or cap setter

Yes, this has the lever/rammer under the barrel.

I have no idea about or how to check nipple size. :(
Well, first you wait till it's cold... :o :lol:. The pitch and size of the nipple threads is the main concern. Dixie gun works can supply replacement nipples for most anything made. I've been shooting a brass framed Pietta 1851 Navy reproduction, in .44 cal., for 20+ years and haven't had any frame stretch. The price is a little steep, but not totally unreasonable.
 
While others have had good luck with brass frames, I purchased one (for parts) that must have had a particularly soft frame. The cylinder had hammered into it, and wouldn't turn.

If this is a cheap "generic" replica, I'd pass it by. You can find a decent steel-framed Remington 1858 replica for not much more.
 
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Hawse is a German company I have a 22 hawse revolver that looks like a Colt peace maker I bought when I was about 16 or 17 it's ok quality but not the best, the cylinder never did line up 100% to the barrel like it should and blows lead out the sides when fired.

If everything checks out I'd offer him $100 I don't think I would go much more but that up to you depending how bad you want it.
 
If you plan on shooting it, the most important thing is getting someone to teach you how to load it. You'll want FFFg black powder or Pyrodex equivalent. Black powder is measured by volume, not by weight as is smokeless so you will need a powder measure. With a .36 you'll probably run about 20-25 gr. loads. The cylinder should be perfectly dry - no oil, or anything else in it. No paper or cloth patch between ball and powder. Balls must be a couple thousands larger in dia. than the cylinder holes and each hole should have a sharp edge that will shave off a small ring of lead from the ball when you ram it. Seat the balls firmly but don't crush the powder. Cover the balls with Crisco or Grease Patch after loading the entire cylinder. Put your caps on last.
 
Hawse was made by Sauer and Sohn. I had a Western Marshall SA in .44 mag that was accurate and had some good looking grips. Sold it because I had too many .44 mags and not enough cash! If unfired sounds like a good deal. Might check on line and see what they say it is worth. Good luck.
gramps
 
Black powder is measured by volume, not by weight as is smokeless so you will need a powder measure.

Lets clear up that myth. We are lucky that the volume to weight ratio is about the same for true black powder.


Unmasking the Blackpowder “Volumetric Grain” of Doom


By Randy Wakeman


Gun manufacturers and powder sellers have been generally ignorant, lackadaisical, and sloppy about referring to “volumetric grains” and volumetric equivalents of blackpowder and blackpowder synthetic replica powders for decades. It is not what you might think, and not only not are there no “universal standards” for volumetric grains, there never were. Yet, some manufacturers dodder on, suggesting that blackpowder is supposed to be measured by volume, or was designed to be. This is absolute rubbish.

You won’t find any definition of a blackpowder volumetric grain from the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), or any other source that I know of. The reason is simple; there is none. Blackpowder has always been measured by weight, not by volume; just like breakfast cereal. You buy blackpowder by the pound, and that is weight, not a “volumetric pound.”

The avoirdupois dram is the unit of weight used to measure black powder. There are 256 drams in a pound avoirdupois, 16 drams in an ounce, and 7000 grains in a pound. 1 gram = 15.432 grains = 0.564 drams. These are all weight measurements, and always have been. Volumetric measuring of blackpowder has never been accurate, and it isn’t today.

A closer look at this mess makes it obvious why volume is not precise. The geometry of blackpowder itself varies by its own granulation size; Fg, FFFg, FFFFg, and so forth. Trying to measure blackpowder (or anything else) by its bulk is tricky. Blackpowder varies all over the place by geometry, moisture content, and even composition percentages. Ian McMurchy published actual weight of 100 gr. volumetric Goex FFg as 101.3 grains, 100 gr. volumetric Goex FFFg as 101.6 grains. (Page 81, Modern Muzzleloading For Today's Whitetails.) Mr. McMurchy didn’t stop there; Pyrodex Select (which is a very large granulation size) weighs in at 63.9 grains, Pyrodex RS at 72.5, Pryrodex P at 73.0, Pyrodex pellets at 74.2, Arco at 94.7, Clean Shot at 85.1, and Quick Shots at 65.5 grains of actual weight. The “Arco” cited is the old “Black Mag 2.”

Not only does volumetric grain have no exact correlation to weight, it has no precise correlation to performance. Ian McMurchy (in the very same book) chronographed 100 volumetric grains of various blackpowders and substitutes through his Oeher 35P pushing a 300 grain bullet, recording 5 shot average velocities from 1233 fps up to 1594 fps all with “100 grains of powder.”

When muzzleloader manufacturers say “100 grains by volume max load” they really are saying nothing that can be accurately quantified. As far as I’m concerned, it is a pretty darn stupid statement—considering that the pressure a powder charge develops has a lot to do with projectile type and weight. A “maximum load” is not a logical thing to proclaim without inclusion of precise projectile weight and type. This starts out dumb, and just gets dumber.

Not only does “by volume” vary all over the place by propellant, the volumetric blackpowder measures themselves are hooked to no particular standard. You cannot buy an SAE, ANSI, CIP, or SAAMI calibrated black powder measure—no such animal exists. The 10 grain (or 5 grain) hash marks on various blackpowder measures (whether made from brass in Red China, India, or in the US from clear plastic) themselves do not agree on what 100 grains by volume is.

The shotgun industry has also has its problems with “drams equivalent.” Many shotgun shells sold today still have “drams equivalent” of blackpowder printed right on their boxes. Somebody, somewhere, decided that a weighed charge of three drams of some brand and some granulation of blackpowder in some 12 gauge shotgun with some type of hull, some type of wad, and an unspecified barrel length, bore size, and choke constriction just happened to propel 1-1/8 ounces of shot at exactly 1200 fps on the nose in front of the muzzle. The scattergun sports industry has been stuck promulgating black powder dram equivalents ever since; an amazing shame.

Nevertheless, the volumetric grain of true blackpowder was “close enough” to the actual weight (within 10% as a generalization); considered more than close enough for field use with such a very inefficient, low yield propellant. It was and is, with true blackpowder.

It is of little help to today’s muzzleloading hunter, who ponders how such crudely made propellants such as American Pioneer / Shockey’s Gold with all the consistency of gravel can be accurately volumetrically measured, and how pellets and sticks can be considered volumetric equivalents to powder when they suck moisture and have clearly visible chunks missing out of them. There must be some type of perpetual motion or circular logic at play here: pellets and substitutes are touted as “volumetric equivalents” to “blackpowder volumetric measures” which are inaccurate, imprecise, and comport to no recognized standards in the first place.

It is currently a triumph of how accurately one can reproduce inaccuracy in measurement. I hope we all wake up soon and decide that words means things, including the word “equivalent” that means "equal to," not “it just might go bang.”

MORE INFO


Gentlemen, the method of discussion of measuring original gun powder (volume v weight) will linger for every unless one gets some basic definitions in place ...
* The gram (also gramme in British English),[1] (Greek/Latin root grámma); symbol g, is a unit of mass.
Originally defined as "the absolute weight of a volume of pure water equal to the cube of the hundredth part of a metre, and at the temperature of melting ice"[2] (later 4 °C), a gram is now defined as one one-thousandth of the SI base unit, the kilogram, or 1×10−3 kg, which itself is defined as being equal to the mass of a physical prototype preserved by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures. This is important so NOTE it!
* 1 gram (g) = 15.4323583529 grains (gr)
Now, I want each who has a 100 'grain' volumetric measure to fill it up with pure distilled water to the 100 gr mark and scale weigh it. You will find that it weighs 100 grains. This is important, so NOTE it and make sure the miniscus is exactly at the 100 line!
* Both grains and drams are based on the The avoirdupois (pronounced /ˌævərdəˈpɔɪz/; French pronunciation: [avwaʁdypwɑ]) system is a system of weights (or, properly, mass) based on a pound of sixteen ounces. Note the word mass and there are 7,000 grains per pound

OK, there are various Volumetric measures, ie the Thompson Contender 100 gr measure and the Lee Dippers. But they are both based on grain scale weight

When Fairshake states the various calibers, ie 45-70, the 45 being the caliber and the 70 being the weight, the 70 relates to 70/100 of a volumetric measure defined again as "the absolute weight of a volume of pure water equal to the cube of the hundredth part of a metre" which when scale weighed equals 100 grains and in the example 45-70 is 70 grains by scale weight!

Now, using the term - measuring powder by volume, it is 70grs by mass which is an avoirdupois measurement of mass not a measurement of volume which is based how much three-dimensional space a substance (solid, liquid, gas, or plasma) or shape occupies or contains

OK, how did Winchester and UMC charge the 45-70 cases with '70' grains. They used machinery that had drop tubes which were calibrated to drop grains of powder by scale weight based on the above definition and calculation of a gram ... "the absolute weight of a volume of pure water equal to the cube of the hundredth part of a metre" where 100 grains of pure water in a volumetric measure has a scale weight of 100 grains. BTW, this is a standard industry test to determine the density of all black powder and all nitro based 'smokeless' powders. The vendors don't tell us the density of their 'smokeless' powders (again based on the measurement of a gram), but buy a copy of Propellants Profile and the densities are listed for nearly every powder on the market today.
 
That's all well and good, Wyandot, but what's your point? Where does that leave the beginner? You state that it is not measured by volume, yet you offer no alternative. Can you provide a link to a site that gives actual weight for Pyrodex or other "substitute black powder" charges for round ball, conical ball, Minnie ball, etc.? All I've ever seen is that you are to match the product on a volumetric basis, using the same volume measure that you would for black powder.
 
Take the Nipples out of the cylinder.
1) make sure they are not STUCK. They will be if not removed from time to time.
2) make sure the threads are good in EVERY hole - no corrosion or cross-threading.
3) check the bore carefully - pitting can happen quickly if not cleaned AND lubed before storage.
His price is at the upper-end of "fair" - make sure the condition matches his price.

Gramps is correct on the maker and quality should be decent and accuracy good as well (with the right combo of powder, wad, ball).
 
He says brass GRIP frame.
If it's just the GRIP frame that's brass, no problem.
If the actual frame's brass, I'd pass.
They DO stretch & they DO loosen arbors. I had a buddy years ago shoot his .44 arbor loose in less than a month.

Parts would be a problem if needed.
Denis
 
all mostly good advise above... the only way to load the handgun with either black powder (which is very hard to get around here these days) and pyrodex is by volume.... how in the world you gonna measure out weight while out at the range or in the woods....

I have two black powder revolvers that I never shoot... why? because these things are very high maintenance.

About the Hawes brass.... I bought a Single Action Western Marshall in 357 a few years back at a gun show that has a brass frame ... the brass was an ugly orange... just a little brasso and it looked great.... I can't imagine the brass frame being a problem other than ugly as all get out after 40 years.
 
Wyandot Jim said:
Black powder is measured by volume, not by weight as is smokeless so you will need a powder measure.

Lets clear up that myth. We are lucky that the volume to weight ratio is about the same for true black powder.

Interesting treatise, and I have no doubt he's scientifically right. Nevertheless, the only thing available to the shooter is a tube marked or sized according to the volume of powder charge recommended by the manufacturer of the firearm, which is far better than judging the charge solely by my calibrated eyeball. In my CVA .44, the manual specifies a standard load of 28gr, and a max of 33 (which will still allow room for the ball), of either Pyrodex or FFFg black powder. :) I've used both, at standard and max charge, and never had a problem.
 
Justice B. Swift said:
Take the Nipples out of the cylinder.
1) make sure they are not STUCK. They will be if not removed from time to time.
2) make sure the threads are good in EVERY hole - no corrosion or cross-threading.
3) check the bore carefully - pitting can happen quickly if not cleaned AND lubed before storage.
His price is at the upper-end of "fair" - make sure the condition matches his price.

Gramps is correct on the maker and quality should be decent and accuracy good as well (with the right combo of powder, wad, ball).

^^This^^.

Also realize that Pyrodex is probably MORE corrosive than Holy Black. Learn to completely disassemble and reassemble ("detail strip") the revolver, because you will need to do so for cleaning. Perhaps not every time you fire it, but frequently. Another good source of nipples and other accessories is Track of the Wolf; they carry an excellent variety of nipples.
 
amazing treatise for those needing exactitude and are thereby frozen with fear of imprecision

re: "It is currently a triumph of how accurately one can reproduce inaccuracy in measurement."

Love the phrase here.

And while author may well be 'right' the variances of individual parts in that 'working relationship' of all the parts, come to yield a high degree of 'close enough' for hundreds of years of field use of such imprecision.

The term "for all practical purposes" is held for close observation here. My own operational opinion, is that my OWN inaccuracy shot to shot, is a triumph over such matters.

As a member of the 'SBSS' (Stealth Bullet Shooting Society) we hold there is no reason too abstruse to provide excuse for missing a target. This incredible tome lists absolute evidence any hits on any targets is absolute and pure chance, unlike the potential for solid miss.
 
Within a few percent, volumetric black powder measures will yield a weight of black powder approximating the markings. That is, if you set the measure for, say, 80 grains of black, you will get about 80 grains by scale. Not exact, for many reasons, but near. The same volume of Pyrodex will weigh less, but it is usually loaded to the same volume as black.

My Old Army will hold 40 grains of black powder. It takes a 2.5 or 2.8 Lee dipper to load the chamber. It's been a while, but I think it takes 2.8 if I use only the ball, 2.5 if I use a Wonder Wad under the ball. Mine actually liked Pyrodex P better than fffG. The Lee dippers come with a slide chart giving the weights each dipper will measure for a whole slew of powders, including Pyrodex RS and P, and two or three grades of black.

My .36 Remington replica takes the Lee 1.9 measure. If you get a .36, don't go looking for .36 balls. They really take a .375 ball. If I remember correctly, a .38 Special case full of black or Pyrodex works as a measure, too.

My .31 Remington Pocket replica takes the Lee 0.7 measure, and I think a 9mm case will work as a measure.

The nice thing about cap and ball revolvers is that because the chamber is limited in volume you pretty much can't overload them as long as you stick with black powder or its volumetric substitutes like Pyrodex or American Pioneer. A full load may not be the most accurate, but it is safe.
 
gramps said:
Hawse was made by Sauer and Sohn. I had a Western Marshall SA in .44 mag that was accurate and had some good looking grips. Sold it because I had too many .44 mags and not enough cash! If unfired sounds like a good deal. Might check on line and see what they say it is worth. Good luck.
gramps


Your right Sauer and Sohn I was trying to remember those names and didn't want to dig the gun out of my safe see, my little revolver is fancy brass grip frame, chrome receiver pearl grips, blued barrel and cylinder.
 
I'm thinking I might just pass on this black powder revolver since nothing comes with it and I don't have a nipple wrench to remove nipples and check things out.

I do appreciate all the info you have provided!!!
 
Good choice RP.
If you want to shoot BP save your money and get a ROA. It will eliminate all of the grief of miss fires frame problems and just makes life simple. Cap guns are enough of a pain without asking for more by buying a cheap one. Yea I have a 1860 Army, and a Colt Walker, to play with. But when I want Cap guns to go bang every time I get out the ROAs :wink:
 
Wyandot Jim said:
Good choice RP.
If you want to shoot BP save your money and get a ROA. It will eliminate all of the grief of miss fires frame problems and just makes life simple. Cap guns are enough of a pain without asking for more by buying a cheap one. Yea I have a 1860 Army, and a Colt Walker, to play with. But when I want Cap guns to go bang every time I get out the ROAs :wink:

I should have bought a ROA YEARS ago when they were reasonably priced. I saw one available locally that looked well worn (blue worn off and grips looking like they'd been used to drive nails). The guy was asking $700 for it!!! For that price I can buy a brand spanking new metallic cartridge gun.

ROA are nothing but collector's items now at current prices.
 
They do come up on GB at a decent price for the blue ones.
I sold an unfired one about a year ago for $400 to a RF member. Looks like they can still be had for $450-500.
The good part is ship to your house no FFL required :wink:

Jim
 

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