I enjoy shooting my Ruger Blackhawk 41 magnum. It sees a regular diet of 215 gr SWC bullets, loaded with Unique. It's been an accurate shooter too, BUT...I've just had a difficult time getting past the factory "plastic-coat" job Ruger did on the aluminum gripframe and ERH.
So...it was time to set out and try to make it better; plus I learned a few things along the way about what works and what doesn't.
First up: How to get that factory coating off the aluminum parts. This isn't anodized like the old aluminum gripframes, but a very thick coat of something. Anyway, after disassembling the revolver, I tried spraying some Easy-off oven cleaner to remove the coating. It didn't work. Neither did acetone, thinner, nor anything else I could fine around the house. Then, I picked up a can of Zip-Strip spray. That took it off in minutes! It went through two treatments to complete the job. Zip-Strip is available in most hardware stores. One additional thing I did while the gripframe was stripped clean was to lightly file the ears so that they were flush with the cylinder frame. The factory fit was poor; resulting in the ears extending higher than the cylinder frame. They are now flush and look much better. :D
Next up: What to paint it with? I am aware of gunkote, duracoat, alumihyde, etc... I just wanted to try something off the shelf that would work as good. The word on the forums is hi-temp flat black paint as working well. I picked up a can of Rustoleum grill paint; rated for 1200 degrees. This paint went on very well. The finish looked awesome after drying for an hour. It was then baked for 2 hours at 300 degrees in the oven. Everything looked perfect... Then the trouble started. Besides noticing a little smutty on my hands from the paint job, everything seemed fine. Well, after putting everything together, I thought a light coat of Tetra gun lube would be nice. Instantly melted right through the new finish! ouch! So, doesn't look like that is going to work.
Something new: I read about the epoxy-based paints being very durable and decided to try that out. Picked up a can of Rustoleum black appliance epoxy paint. This stuff went on very nice. I put about two coats on, let it cure for about 6 hours, and then put it in the oven at 175 degrees for two hours. The finish on the gripframe and ERH was excellent. Obviously, very shiny; but smooth and professional-looking.
The test: Using the appliance epoxy looked just incredible, but how would it hold up to gun lubes and cleaners? I first tried some Rem-oil spray. It worked just fine and didn't attack the finish. Tetra gun lube? Same thing. No effect on the epoxy finish at all. I've been rubbing and handling the gripframe for a couple days and it's just as solid a finish as when it came out of the oven. No smutty black on the hands either. I am most satisfied with the outcome. Can't wait to shoot it!
So...it was time to set out and try to make it better; plus I learned a few things along the way about what works and what doesn't.
First up: How to get that factory coating off the aluminum parts. This isn't anodized like the old aluminum gripframes, but a very thick coat of something. Anyway, after disassembling the revolver, I tried spraying some Easy-off oven cleaner to remove the coating. It didn't work. Neither did acetone, thinner, nor anything else I could fine around the house. Then, I picked up a can of Zip-Strip spray. That took it off in minutes! It went through two treatments to complete the job. Zip-Strip is available in most hardware stores. One additional thing I did while the gripframe was stripped clean was to lightly file the ears so that they were flush with the cylinder frame. The factory fit was poor; resulting in the ears extending higher than the cylinder frame. They are now flush and look much better. :D
Next up: What to paint it with? I am aware of gunkote, duracoat, alumihyde, etc... I just wanted to try something off the shelf that would work as good. The word on the forums is hi-temp flat black paint as working well. I picked up a can of Rustoleum grill paint; rated for 1200 degrees. This paint went on very well. The finish looked awesome after drying for an hour. It was then baked for 2 hours at 300 degrees in the oven. Everything looked perfect... Then the trouble started. Besides noticing a little smutty on my hands from the paint job, everything seemed fine. Well, after putting everything together, I thought a light coat of Tetra gun lube would be nice. Instantly melted right through the new finish! ouch! So, doesn't look like that is going to work.
Something new: I read about the epoxy-based paints being very durable and decided to try that out. Picked up a can of Rustoleum black appliance epoxy paint. This stuff went on very nice. I put about two coats on, let it cure for about 6 hours, and then put it in the oven at 175 degrees for two hours. The finish on the gripframe and ERH was excellent. Obviously, very shiny; but smooth and professional-looking.
The test: Using the appliance epoxy looked just incredible, but how would it hold up to gun lubes and cleaners? I first tried some Rem-oil spray. It worked just fine and didn't attack the finish. Tetra gun lube? Same thing. No effect on the epoxy finish at all. I've been rubbing and handling the gripframe for a couple days and it's just as solid a finish as when it came out of the oven. No smutty black on the hands either. I am most satisfied with the outcome. Can't wait to shoot it!
